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mechanix56 01-12-14 11:15 PM

SC300 NA-t build with questions
SC300 NA-t build with questions

so guys its my first post on here let me start by saying i have a big background in LSx GM engines and setups of that nature including supercharging and turbocharging however i have little to no past expierience to modifying one of these cars but ill take it as i go im gonna outline what i already have for parts and what i plan to get if you guys see any issues or have any feedback please chime in i could use any help i can get !

so the car is a 92 sc300.
rebuilt OEM head
OEM GTE Headgasket
ARP Headstuds
Gates Blue Timing set
Ebay T4 manifold
Percision 6265 turbo
31x12x3" front mount
Tial 44mm MVR wastegate 14psi springs
Defi Tach
Defi 60mm boost gauge
560CC injectors
walbro 255
thats what i already have

ive eliminated all of the emmisions (egr,evap) and any uneeded vacuums. so far the only lines i see that need to be kept are the lines for the fuel pressure regulator and the line that runs that heater core divertor. can i eliminate that valve also and just run the hose direct ?

Ali SC3 01-13-14 10:57 AM

list looks good but I see nothing for engine management, are you going to stock ecu it cause thats the worst thing you can plan to do. I would consider the tt ecu mod or going standalone for control over fuel and timing, the stock ecu is horrible with boost.

you can eliminate the heater core diverter but expect your a/c to be much less cold in the summer. It doesn't affect performance so might as well leave it there and the vsv unless you are going for a full tuck or as little as possible.

another vac line I would run is if you are on the stock intake manifold, run a line from the top of the throttle body (the right most vac nipple when looking from drivers side at it) and run this to the butterfly valve in the stock intake manifold. there is a little wastegate looking thing in the middle under the Y part, connect this to manifold vacuum (that port on the throttle body) and it will help you spool faster without having all the rest of the ACIS canister stuff on the lower runners (I am assuming you took it out already). connecting this line will give you long runners whenever in vacuum (more torque = more spool), and as soon as you cross into boost it gives you short runners = best for max hp which is what you want for the top end.
If you just leave it disconnected you get short runner all the time, which means you loose out on extra torque below 4000 rpm's, and with the stock intake since you have it you might as well take the free power and run the vac line.

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