Looks great. I'll be following along the same lines when I do my swap in the coming months.

Are the ARP headstud washers suppose to be smaller than the OE washers? Picture below shows OE washer (top), ARP (bottom).

http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/...816_073037.jpg

Yes. Mone were the same way

My boss says breaking it in on the dyno is the best way. I believe it is 3 pulls at 50%, 3 pulls 75%, 3 pulls 100% let the car decel in gear. 30 mins between pulls. According to him, this is the best way to seal the piston rings.

Another one ive heard of is to drive the car and get the rpms in different ranges and let it decel in gear. Ive been told this method is best if you dont have access to a dyno.

He says to use non detergent oil for break in. My boss and co-worker are UTI graduates, so i assume its what they were taught. Everyone has their own ways of breaking the engine. Im just saying this is what i was told. I've never rebuilt and engine so i have no experience in breaking in a fresh build. I dont really have any suggestions, I would be afraid to beat my car right away lol. The other day i saw a fresh build go bad on the dyno. Customer had rebuilt the engine and drove it for about 200mi. Car drove and sounded perfectly normal. Brought the car to our shop to "break in the motor". Car started to knock after 3 pulls. Turns out rod bearings were chewed up. Looks like oil starvation. I have no idea whether it was the builder who was at fault or pushing the car on the dyno. My boss did successfully break in his motor, making 730whp though.

In SF, there's this guy Motoman suggesting the same thing you said.

But since I am doing a mild build, I guess I will be doing a traditional break-in.

Toyota says in the manual to break-in the engine in low RPMs. JZ engines for instance, these engine can go 300k+ miles as we know it. You know what I'm trying to say? I'd rather believe those Japanese guys who made that engine. I'm not saying dyno break-in is not good, but I'd rather follow the instructions.

I know my rebuild is not the same as a factory Toyota-built engine, just want to stay on the safe side.

This is a broad subject and everyone has different opinions.

Gotcha and totally understand.

Still have your car?

http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/...818_132553.jpg

http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/...818_132600.jpg

http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/...818_132620.jpg

Camshafts on, it was time consuming just to install these cams! I have to follow what's in TSRM though.

I may have to get new shims, most of the clearances are really tight. Wondering if it has something to do with these USDM cams or the valve job.
The tips of the valves are machined, will that cause tight clearances?

http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/...818_141131.jpg

http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/...818_132715.jpg

Question, I wrote these down before disassembly, just want to make sure it is correct.

No.1 camshaft = Intake

No.2 camshaft = Exhaust

Right?

Yup still do. Driving it everyday!:thumbup:

Took apart the oil cooler today and installed new seals
http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/...820_094400.jpg

http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/...820_092545.jpg

http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/...820_100221.jpg

Blocked oil feed on the left and -4an feed on the right

http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/...820_100231.jpg

That oil on the camshafts sure looks like peeling paint..fooled me for a moment..lol

Wow very nice build thread. What are your hp goals? Seems like the BW s366 is the turbo to go with haha

You have it installed correctly. Easy way to tell is the intake cam has the little things on the side to feed the cam sensors. Motor is looking fresh!