Sc400 5.3l l33 gm v8
06-13-13, 09:01 AM
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Sc400 5.3l l33 gm v8
Hello, here is a thread to document my SC400 build.
I got it for 2k$ and it was a good beater for a while, but then the starter went bad. I tried to change the starter, but that is when I realized that I don't like Lexus drivetrains. If you have tried to do the starter on a 1UZ, you'll agree they are difficult to work on and exceedingly complicated.
Long story short, here is the GM 5.3L L33 resting in the engine bay:
In case you like saving money and were wondering if the truck intake manifold fits, it would take a miracle. The oil pan is resting on the cross member and still at least 4 inches too tall, not even a dry sump would help you. Maybe a custom cross member, but why destroy that aluminum piece of art?
Got a T56 from a 2004 cts-v. This is the way to go, the SC400 driveshaft actually fits the bolt circle of the cadillac's rubber driveshaft thingy. I have to take a few more measurements before I decide to use it though. In this picture the lexus shaft is in the GM transmission.
I got it for 2k$ and it was a good beater for a while, but then the starter went bad. I tried to change the starter, but that is when I realized that I don't like Lexus drivetrains. If you have tried to do the starter on a 1UZ, you'll agree they are difficult to work on and exceedingly complicated.
Long story short, here is the GM 5.3L L33 resting in the engine bay:
In case you like saving money and were wondering if the truck intake manifold fits, it would take a miracle. The oil pan is resting on the cross member and still at least 4 inches too tall, not even a dry sump would help you. Maybe a custom cross member, but why destroy that aluminum piece of art?
Got a T56 from a 2004 cts-v. This is the way to go, the SC400 driveshaft actually fits the bolt circle of the cadillac's rubber driveshaft thingy. I have to take a few more measurements before I decide to use it though. In this picture the lexus shaft is in the GM transmission.
06-13-13, 10:36 AM
#3
Another one, YAY!!
Couple of tips. Oil pan, use one from an F-body Camaro/T/A or Vette, they clear the cross member with a slight modification and you can still use the stock GM oil filters with a small cut. Driveshaft, those of us with the LSx swaps already done are using the F-body driveshaft as-well with an adapter from Driftmotion, 3r to 1350 ujoint, and a 1350 Spicer flange. I have part numbers if you need them, but the CTS t56 is shorter than the Camaro/GTO/Viper t56 by 2 or 3''. But having a driveshaft extended is cheaper than a custom one.
Keep us posted.
Almost forgot. LS1 or LS6 intake with the stock rail and use the C5 corvette filter. GM Part#10299146 (or Wix 33737)
Couple of tips. Oil pan, use one from an F-body Camaro/T/A or Vette, they clear the cross member with a slight modification and you can still use the stock GM oil filters with a small cut. Driveshaft, those of us with the LSx swaps already done are using the F-body driveshaft as-well with an adapter from Driftmotion, 3r to 1350 ujoint, and a 1350 Spicer flange. I have part numbers if you need them, but the CTS t56 is shorter than the Camaro/GTO/Viper t56 by 2 or 3''. But having a driveshaft extended is cheaper than a custom one.
Keep us posted.
Almost forgot. LS1 or LS6 intake with the stock rail and use the C5 corvette filter. GM Part#10299146 (or Wix 33737)
Last edited by turbodremz; 06-13-13 at 10:43 AM.
06-16-13, 06:01 AM
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Thanks for the info bro, I read your build thread thoroughly, huge fan or your work.
The driveshaft info will come in handy for sure if I decide not to use the SC400 driveshaft. After taking a few measurements, I am now more inclined to give the SC400 driveshaft a whirl (literally)
Take a look at this side by side of the CTS v driveshaft and the SC400 one, with their associated rubber doughnut thingies:
The metallic bolt hole sleeves have the exact same ID but the Lexus one has a larger OD. My plan is to use the Cadillac doughnut and machine some spacers so that the SC400 flange fits thight with those sleeves.
The bolt circles are slightly different. I have to squish the doughnut slightly to make it work, that is where the risk comes in, but it's free stuff so I think I will try it. The output shaft central nose on both the t56 and the lexus auto transmission measure .630 OD and they seem to protrude the same amount:
Took the exhuast system out today:
Now just waiting for some parts to come: LS7 flywheel and clutch with bolts, transmission bolts, rear main seal, CTS v input bearing, LS7 clutch slave.
The driveshaft info will come in handy for sure if I decide not to use the SC400 driveshaft. After taking a few measurements, I am now more inclined to give the SC400 driveshaft a whirl (literally)
Take a look at this side by side of the CTS v driveshaft and the SC400 one, with their associated rubber doughnut thingies:
The metallic bolt hole sleeves have the exact same ID but the Lexus one has a larger OD. My plan is to use the Cadillac doughnut and machine some spacers so that the SC400 flange fits thight with those sleeves.
The bolt circles are slightly different. I have to squish the doughnut slightly to make it work, that is where the risk comes in, but it's free stuff so I think I will try it. The output shaft central nose on both the t56 and the lexus auto transmission measure .630 OD and they seem to protrude the same amount:
Took the exhuast system out today:
Now just waiting for some parts to come: LS7 flywheel and clutch with bolts, transmission bolts, rear main seal, CTS v input bearing, LS7 clutch slave.
06-17-13, 06:36 AM
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Nice - alot of power potential wiht that engine and tranny setup - honeslty if I didn't have a 1JZ setup in my car would consider that route as well. I may look into that CTS T-56 setup as I did not know it was shorter...
Wonder how much a custom bellhousing would be to bolt the T056 up- I loved my T-56 with the MGW shifter I had before in my Saleen.
Hmmm - T-56 1JZ - I like the sound of that;-)
Wonder how much a custom bellhousing would be to bolt the T056 up- I loved my T-56 with the MGW shifter I had before in my Saleen.
Hmmm - T-56 1JZ - I like the sound of that;-)
06-18-13, 12:22 PM
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Thank you,
I saw that some Australians made a bell housing adapter using the Toyota bell housing with a T56. Not sure if anyone here has done that. I think it needs a custom clutch. Not sure how they handled where the input bearing inserts into the Toyota crank shaft.
The CTS-v transmission is shorter in a sense. I suppose I can cut and reweld that shifter linkage to some extent.
I saw that some Australians made a bell housing adapter using the Toyota bell housing with a T56. Not sure if anyone here has done that. I think it needs a custom clutch. Not sure how they handled where the input bearing inserts into the Toyota crank shaft.
The CTS-v transmission is shorter in a sense. I suppose I can cut and reweld that shifter linkage to some extent.
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06-20-13, 11:32 AM
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Got some goodies today. LS7 flywheel and clutch with bolts, rear main seal, transmission bolts, oil pan gasket, comp cams trunion upgrade, tooley dual valve springs and tool steel retainers, gas pedal controler
Still need some exhaust manifold gaskets, head milling, head gaskets, intake manifold, starter, tensioner, electronic pedal, LS7 slave cylinder, clutch pedal, clutch master.
Very excited about these LS7 exhaust manifolds . Nice D shaped ports which slow gases near the flat part of the D aiding to turn the column of gases.
Even though I was in the automotive exhaust engineering business for a little while, I'm not sure how they made these one piece runners that go from D to rectangle and seemlessly meld into the 7/16" thick flanges.
took a nice flat hone to the flanges to true up the sealing surface agiain:
Still need some exhaust manifold gaskets, head milling, head gaskets, intake manifold, starter, tensioner, electronic pedal, LS7 slave cylinder, clutch pedal, clutch master.
Very excited about these LS7 exhaust manifolds . Nice D shaped ports which slow gases near the flat part of the D aiding to turn the column of gases.
Even though I was in the automotive exhaust engineering business for a little while, I'm not sure how they made these one piece runners that go from D to rectangle and seemlessly meld into the 7/16" thick flanges.
took a nice flat hone to the flanges to true up the sealing surface agiain:
Last edited by SC399; 06-21-13 at 08:39 AM.
06-21-13, 08:39 AM
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Nothing special, the hone likes long walks on the beach, favorite color is shiny, favorite food is metal.
I was just being OCD running that over the sealing surface to check for high spots (it makes them shiny) . It ended up putting a nice finish on the whole face, I think because the flange is austenitic stainless, could probably even polish it. but I have never seen such a nice thick 300 series stainless flange on a OEM manifold before. Beautiful.
I was just being OCD running that over the sealing surface to check for high spots (it makes them shiny) . It ended up putting a nice finish on the whole face, I think because the flange is austenitic stainless, could probably even polish it. but I have never seen such a nice thick 300 series stainless flange on a OEM manifold before. Beautiful.
06-22-13, 02:46 PM
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working on the engine a little bit this weekend
Made a little valve compressing tool. I didn't like the $38 one at the auto store next door also not a big fan of the ones that use the gasket sealing surface as a pivot.
Ancient simple technology, not too stressful to work on it. Will try to take the other head apart and install the trunion upgrade kit. Anybody know of a good engine machine shop in the Lansing Michigan area?
Made a little valve compressing tool. I didn't like the $38 one at the auto store next door also not a big fan of the ones that use the gasket sealing surface as a pivot.
Ancient simple technology, not too stressful to work on it. Will try to take the other head apart and install the trunion upgrade kit. Anybody know of a good engine machine shop in the Lansing Michigan area?
06-24-13, 07:09 AM
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Wanting to take this head apart the right way so I cobbled together some compressed air with my harbor freight compression checking kit.
Had to remove the gauge of the compression checker, disable the check valve and weld up a 1/8 to 1.4 MPT adapter, but it's a much better way to hold the valves shut.
Had to remove the gauge of the compression checker, disable the check valve and weld up a 1/8 to 1.4 MPT adapter, but it's a much better way to hold the valves shut.
06-27-13, 07:03 PM
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I would like to try the GTO or the F body oil pan, as suggested by earlier posters, but since I'm so cheap I tried to massacre the truck oil pan that came with the engine. Got a piece of 1/4" thick aluminum plate for $15 at the local metal supply store then hacked it to pieces with a reciprocating saw. Here it's tacked into place, but need a different filler to finish welding. I tried using some thin 5356 filler which it kept hissing, popping and melting before I even reached the puddle. (novice TIG welder) Next victim is the pickup tube.
installed the rocker arm trunion upgrade from comp cams. It wasn't too bad to do with a bench vice. Supposedly a good reliability upgrade, because of the captured needle bearing and added circlips.
tada... that only took 3 hours
Got some more crap for the heads, now all they need is a good milling, then can button the engine back up.
installed the rocker arm trunion upgrade from comp cams. It wasn't too bad to do with a bench vice. Supposedly a good reliability upgrade, because of the captured needle bearing and added circlips.
tada... that only took 3 hours
Got some more crap for the heads, now all they need is a good milling, then can button the engine back up.
Last edited by SC399; 06-27-13 at 07:08 PM.
06-27-13, 07:41 PM
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As an aside; I started becoming a gear head about 15 years ago. This is my first real build (did a turbo swap into an impreza in college, but it was as poor as I was). Anyway this is something I've been dreaming of and part of the reason I became an engineer. Been a real joy to work on it this summer.
