joewitafro

And todays update, so y'all are caught up with the current status of the car.

Only had two hours to work on the car today, got the heater core hoses on, serpentine belt, radiator and fan on, return fuel hose and brake booster vacuum. New lower radiator hose from a gs300 fits perfect with the new lower water neck. Work the next two days before I will get to do anything on the car.








Downpipe I bought doesnt work, i cant even bolt it flush to my turbo because it hits below. No problem though we modify and strive. I ordered a 2.5" exhaust v-band to attach the downpipe to the stock exhaust system. Not quite ready for a full exhaust yet. Intake pipe I have comes out at the wrong angle so I got an aluminum 3" 45° and my buddy is going to weld it up for me along with the recirculation fitting for the bov and the vacuum port for the catch can setup.

joewitafro

I forgot about this update too..

I found a buddy was selling an almost identical 1993 gs300 in the same color as mine. Only difference is mine doesn't have traction control and this one does. Even has matching sticker (NWLO) on the back window lol. Runs and drives, has a little idling issue and a broken front window. Going to strip it for parts for my car and take the motor out. has a rebuilt head, I might sell the head and trans and keep the lower as a backup.

joewitafro

Today I got a few things done on the car.

Driveshaft on, fuel lines on, clutch line on, ground straps on, lower transmission bolts put in, starter power wire, cut down my intake to fit the new setup, yanked the vacuum assist nipple off my spare car for the power steering pump. I need to have the overflow nipple welded to my radiator as it stripped, two nipples welded on my intake and my bov welded to my charge pipe off the turbo. Once thats done I will be able to put fluids in it and pretty much the only thing left is the down pipe.

joewitafro

Been waiting on parts and been sick but today I got my power steering parts in that changes the angle of the larger reservoir line.

Just need to tighten up the clamps but also changed the vacuum hoses to the power steering assist.





Also had my nephew help me bleed my brakes and clutch. Trying to get a welder located to add the fittings to my intercooler pipe, intake pipe and fix my radiator overflow port.

joewitafro

re-bled the clutch and brakes today with my other nephew. Mostly to make sure all the old fluid was gone and no air left. Had issues with my driver rear caliper fitting. Something must've gotten stuck in it, but I was able to do a good job bleeding the setup still. In the future I will have to replace the old rubber lines that connect my calipers and all the fittings. I will probably upgrade to jza80 tt brakes by then.

joewitafro

Finally found someone that can help me with welding. I was having real problems finding help. Here's what I dropped off tonight to be welded. After this I only have the downpipe and wastegate dump pipe to finish and its done.

joewitafro

So the radiator nipple couldnt get welded cause of the position and the cap lock started to melt a little, so I ordered an acerace cnc cap port and mishimoto small cap. Once the radiator is back in the only thing left is the downpipe/dump pipe.






Added some fire wrap to my vacuum lines and the top pcv line that runs over the turbo.
[img]https://i.imgur.com/sRto6jZ.jpg]/img]

joewitafro

Updates, charging the battery because it was dead, still need to crank and get oil through the turbo before I try to start it but coolant is in and power steering is full until I start it up and top the fluids off. Only thing left is the down pipe/midpipe and dump tube.

joewitafro

So I improperly tried to bleed the power steering and failed miserably, take note: Do not start the car until you bleed the power steering.

Beyond that, I found a leak in my power steering






Got the car started again and everything seems good. Haven't fully bled the coolant system and I added a little more oil. Need to get my downpipe and exhaust done now.

joewitafro

Been a while since I posted. Currently have 60 miles on the car, breaking in the clutch nice and easy. Just a lot of stop lights and shifting.








Since my car only uses the upper o2 sensor, a stock two port had to be added. I then installed my AEM wideband in the stock narrowband position after the cat and ran it up through my passenger floorboard with the stock grommet. Got my gauges zip tied to my steering wheel column cover for the mean time until I get it fiberglassed. Going to have a midpipe made sometime this summer after my welders baby gets a lil older and delete the stock cat which is currently still on there.

Also had to redo the coolant line that loops from the alternator to the back of the motor. Ended up too close to my downpipe for my liking so I bought a high temp silicone 90 and a barb fitting and moved it so it routes way lower and closer to the block.

joewitafro

So my back pressure is definitely too high. I am not getting the boost I am wanting out of the wastegate. All of this I knew would happen having gone to a .68 a/r housing and connecting a 3" downpipe to the stock exhaust. In the mean time, a 9 lb spring gives me 6 psi of boost, and I just switched it to 13.5 lb spring which brought me up to 10 psi. Still holding 10.0 AFR under WOT, so I have a little more to go. Thinking of upping to 15 lb spring and see what my AFR looks like. Should give me about 12-13psi. This is stock OBD2 ecu and 440cc injectors with a walbro 450 pump and 12v mod.

mobes

The new setup looks nice. I wouldn't worry about the spring not matching the measured boost. Every car is different. I'm sure changing the cat will help though.

joewitafro

Yeah until I do a cat delete and get more miles/adjustment on my clutch I am going to leave it where its at. 10 psi feels pretty damn good so far, a lot faster than the car was before on stock twins and 8psi.

Thanks for the reply!

joewitafro

So clutch adjustment time. Took me about 3 hours and it was pretty much a pain in the butt. Had to take off lower part of my dash and remove the bracket I made from the stock foot e-brake bracket.



Bracket is super stiff and prevents any movement of my firewall. Has worked great and held up with no issues!



Once the bracket was removed I was able to see the cotter pin and pop the pin going through the clutch pedal. Once that was removed I could actually adjust the clutch engagement. Took 3 adjustments to get it right where I wanted it. Kept adjusting it, popping the pin back in and taking a quick test drive and then popping the pin out and doing more adjustment, etc. Feels way better driving it now though. 320 miles on the clutch so far, probably going to up the boost when I get to 500 miles.

joewitafro

So for the past year my clutch has been wonky, with a super high engagement ever since I installed it, but the stage 3.5 clutch never really liked to be slipped much with pretty harsh engagement. I tried adjusting my clutch pedal twice to get a lower engagement out of the pedal but to no avail. So, after only a year of beating the **** out of my clutch it started slipping in 2nd under boost. I have been towing and boosting some heavy loads (1500 lbs) with the car so that might've pushed my problems sooner than later.

But it all works out. Quit my job and I have two more weeks before my new job starts, ordered an OEM toyota 7mgte clutch/pressure plate because I know they can be slipped and hold 320hp. Also the pedal felt way better for some reason with the stock setup. Been trying to yank the transmission for the past two days at the advice of my bro who said doing just the trans is easier, but he must've forgot like I did that my car wasn't designed for an R154 and thus we had to pound the tunnel quite a bit to get it to fit, and thus my clearance is junk. Getting out the starter was hell and I only got two of the top bellhousing bolts out, which made me think.. If its this hard to take it out, how the heck am i going to get it back in!

So here we are on like the sixth time I've yanked this motor. I already got the motor mounts loose, starter off, driveshaft off, pressure plate bolts, shifter and engine/trans oil drained.

Shouldnt be too bad, going to have someone help me lift the hood off tomorrow, then i got the radiator to yank out, a/c compressor and power steering are going to be disconnected and set aside with the lines still on, intercooler piping and down pipe, heater hoses, fuel lines, altenator wiring and throttle cable.. and I should be ready to pull it out. Hopefully I can get it all back in and running again this week (by the 26th at the latest) so I can have a full week off to relax before work again.