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I hooked up the stock gs300 fuel return and got a 15 amp fuse for the ETCS for the throttle body. I also put on the intake i got from CX racing and it fit well, i used toyota FIPG to make a gasket seal around the MAF and installed that, removed my cruise control and stock igniter. I mounted my new igniter infront of my clutch master on the stock tower using stock brackets and stock holes that it lined up with, which worked out well. I need to pick up some power steering hose to be able to mount the reservoir near the shock tower, its going to be tight but I have no other options right now.
Last of all, I tried to install my gs300 radiator and didn't even think that the top outlet is at the wrong position for my motor. SIGH... I tried to order an aluminum JZS161 radiator from ebay and the seller didn't have them in stock, I can't wait... So... I ordered a CX racing mk4 manual trans aluminum radiator and will have to cut and move my lower radiator brackets outward to fit the radiator. Shouldn't be too hard.
Tomorrow I will connect the drive shaft, fuel inlet banjo, bell housing ground strap, starter 12v power wire, connect the ecu inside the passenger foot well, add oil to the motor, i will probably install my old radiator because I need to make sure this motor is in good running condition. Last of all I gotta put the heater core hoses on and connect the throttle cable to the gas pedal.
Maybe I can borrow a camera and get better photos hahahha.
2jzge GS300 radiator will NOT work... It will interfere with the intercooler piping from the intake manifold and unless i move my battery and route the piping that way I need to change radiators. Motor is sitting in the mounts and transmission is bolted in I still need to hook up heater hoses.
CX racing intake for 98-2002 2jzgte vtti
I was under the car today some work done:
- Installed the ECU in the passenger footwell
- The fuel inlet banjo is connected
- fuel return hose connected
- 12v source for the ETCS fuse is connected with the starter power wire.
- bellhousing ground strap is attached
- Driver side ground strap to the motor is connected
- Alternator is plugged in (using JZS161 alternator and stock plug thats the same) w/ wire bolted on.
- Lower radiator hose is on and clamp installed underneath passenger side of motor area
- A/C lines in bumper have had brackets bent and the lines moved down for now
- Power steering cooling lines have had brackets removed, and the lower hose relocated upward more to move the lines up to the core support area.
- Bottom plastic tray was removed on bottom of bumper. I lifted the intercooler up and it fits perfectly under the core support which I wont have to modify at all, and gets pretty much 98% cooling behind the stock bumper. I'm going to use 2.5" piping.
I tried installing my 2jzge fan blade onto the 2jzge clutch fan and it hits the water neck. So far I know I need a 2jzgte clutch fan which I will be ordering tomorrow, but I am going to see if I can use my 2jzge fan because I just bought it! hahah and it would be a bummer finding another used 2jzgte fan blade.
My game plan for tomorrow is to get the lower heater hose cut and installed, I sliced my stock upper heater hose installing the motor stupidly and its like forty bucksss to get a new one, and I don't want to do that. So I might find some a 90 degree pipe and install it lol. At this point I really need to see the motor running. I am going to install the drive shaft under the car and I also need to pick up the large power steering reservoir hose to be able to loop it and mount it by the shock tower. A 2jzgte reservoir has better line angles but I really like the 7mgte reservoir!
Last of all, I ordered a mk3 supra PCV valve and temperature gauge sensor (single prong), 14 x 1.5mm motor mount nuts for the 97+ tt motor mounts. More work tomorrow!
I got the hoses for the power steering I needed. The larger hose is 5/8 and the smaller hose is 3/8. I also won a 1jz clutch fan and blade on ebay but in the mean time I test fitted my brothers, I am going to need to space out the fan a tiny bit just for extra clearance on the radiator hose. I took pictures showing the work I had done previously with a better camera. Waiting on parts and I think today is going to be a day off from the heat.
I drained the old oil out of the motor, put a new toyota drain washer on and tightened it up. Added oil and put the battery in. I pulled the top radiator hose off just so it didnt get hit and was able to prime the fuel system by cranking it.
After a few cranks the car started up but would die with the intercooler disconnected, I looped around some of my piping without any clamps because I am desperate and excited to hear it run, see the condition of the motor. So after the piping was put on I was able to start it up and it idled perfectly. I definitely was listening to hear anything in the bottom end or in the motor but I think it sounds good thus far Better pictures and video tomorrow, i also plan on installing my PCV valve and temp sensor, heater core hoses and drive line. I need to pick up transmission fluid and hook up my speed sensor and reverse lights. Until the radiator shows up I plan on figuring out intercooler piping!
Driveshaft flange had to be tapped out because the bolts wouldn't go in from dried loc-tight, but after doing that and reapplying loc tight I got the drive shaft installed, got my oil topped off and transmission fluid in the car, I managed to hang upside down for an hour and finally get my gas pedal connected to the throttle cable.
I put the interior back together on the passenger and driver side, and center console. I got the A/C lines connected and the battery charged up, had to put a little gas in it cause I ran out but..
I started the car up again and held the intercooler pipes from poppin off and was able to idle the motor and rev it up, turbos start to spool and i definitely hear the blow off valve
I don't hear any knocking, and i can hear my injectors clickin and my valve train sounds good. Going to run this high detergent chevron oil for 100 miles before draining it to "wash" the insides a little. I noticed the o-ring on the oil filter base is leaking a little from when I pulled it off and didn't change it. That's going to have to be apart of my oil change come when the car starts to move.
My radiator comes tomorrow, its a CX racing Supra TT radiator for a manual. I am going to head to the radiator shop when I get it in along with my stock radiator and see what it would cost to have the bottom bosses moved to fit my stock locations. This would be much preferred as it gives me time to work on the heater core hoses and not have to do cutting and welding. So we will see The other mess is the rear heater core hose. Right now with the hose I bought and put on, I forgot to cut it shorter and mount it as the motor was going into the engine, which I should've done but it was pretty stressful putting the motor in at the time and it slipped my thought. Anyways, tomorrows project is attempting to do the heater core hoses without having to bypass my heater core. We will see, and then intercooler piping!
I will definitely be redoing a lot of the build thread and explaining parts better as I re-read them. I would definitely like to make a "how to" on swapping a jzs161 into this car, but the wiring is something that I would need to figure out what each individual pin went too since I had someone else do it.
but none the less, today I am going to try and get that worm clamp on the back firewall heater core hose and put one set of washers behind the fan mounted on the pulley and another set of washers on the fan blade to fan clutch. Hoping this puts me where I feel I want to be. Next is cutting a hole with a 3" hole saw for my intercooler piping to go down on my passenger side and trying to mount my intercooler. I also need to bleed my clutch and make sure my oil is topped off, and then fill up my radiator with water once my intercooler is setup and ready.
I'll bring my better camera today and get some good photos. Thanks guys! I sit here reading on this forum and others for hours and definitely enjoy posting here, trying to get this community as excited as I am about my dream car and builds! I wish more people put effort into working on them because its an amazing platform but most junk them out and let them rot, which is why our values have deteriorated so much.
Getting that hose and clamp on was SO difficult, took about 4-5 hours and two days of getting up and down and slicing the FK out of my arms and fingers, but its on! The hardest part of my swap hahaha!!!
I got my new fan on and I spaced it with four washers inbetween the pulley and clutch fan and four washers between the clutch fan and blade, spend some time trimming the upper rad hose as it was kinking and coming real close to the fan blade. I feel like if I can I should space the fan out a little more, but i'm not sure I can.
In other news, under the upper water neck is my 2 pin ecu coolant sensor and above that I am supposed to be putting in a instrument cluster water temp sensor (single spade) from a mk3 supra but I found out its pretty large in comparison. So I either got to drill out my upper water neck or figure out another sensor.
Today I got the intercooler mounted in the bumper and did some cutting. I made a L bracket that fits on the top of the intercooler and mounts to the radiator support, I didn't remove the nut that holds the A/C fan on.. the stud was long enough to just slide it on and put another nut on. Works for me! The top plate is about 1/8" and for the bottom I found a 1/4" strap and mounted it where the V brace mounted under the radiator and connected it to the center of the bottom intercooler mount. Seems pretty sturdy!
I cut a 4" hole on the passenger side for the intercooler pipe to go down. I'm going to get some fuel hose or something to line the inside of the hole. I cut the passenger side tow hook off the front and I'm going to remove some more metal and plastic from the front bumper to get my piping to go through, Its very difficult with this bumper to not have it hanging low. I also put the 14 x 1.5 mm motor mount nuts on that I ordered from Driftmotion. They take a 21mm socket and went on perfect
lastly for today, I wanted to make sure the motor sounded good AGAIN. I needed to hear it purr So I crappily put together some intercooler pipes to bypass the intercooler and put t-bolts on everything because any time I give er gas the pressure from the turbos blew off the couplers Hope you guys like! I can't wait to get everything situated and start driving.
44730-24020 valve assymbly for brake booster (one way check valve)
Connected this lower sensor into the bottom of the radiator and made sure to thread tape everything that is going into water ports.
Honda civic reservoir overflow: all parts under 25 bucks.
19106-RNA-A00 JOINT, RESERVE TANK
19101-RNA-A01 TANK, RESERVE
19102-RNA-A00 CAP, RESERVE TANK
19103-RNA-A00 HOSE A, RESERVE TANK
Took a little trimming of the battery box but I was able to snug it in there between the battery and headline and under neath the stock battery tie down. I think it looks great and found the part numbers on Supraforums that the mk4 guys do. Turned out GREAT!
Removed the stock overflow tank, definitely need to detail the engine bay once I am finished!
Welder came over and we think a 90 degree bend (identical to the 93-96 supra 1.5" upper radiator hard pipes) will fit and clear the fan. I'm going to see how it turns out tomorrow. More work on the inter cooler tomorrow too.
Picked up my upper radiator pipe from the welder, he polished it for me and did beaded ends but I ended up spraying my hose/clamp and part of the pipe black to see if the fan will rub at all. I'm about .4" away at the closet spot. I would like to remove the studs out of the fan clutch and use bolts from the front so I can put some 1/2" spacers In between but I would need something machine that is the same size and weights as each other to keep the system balanced. Right now with some 1/4" diameter washers I can still see a little wobble, whether the fan has a little natural wobble in it or if its the addition of the washers I don't know. But I'm only spaced about 1/4" right now.
I also cut the spade connector off that panic wire installed for my gauge as I wanted everything to be factory connectors, and I got that lead wire with pin from Toyota, stripped and soldered the wires together and double heat shrunk it.
Next I remembered my tachometer wasn't working and from previous research on the forums (thank you to those who has posted correct information) all I had to do was jump the resistor labeled "R7" next to the orange plug in the center. Soldered a wire in there and WAHLAH! tach works now
Last off I spent a little time under the front of the car with a cut off wheel and removed the passenger tow hook more and removed some metal to help me run a straight pipe out of the intercooler. Other than that I only need to cut my intercooler piping to the correct sizes and get it all on there and put water in the engine before I can drive it over to the muffler shop. Should have it driving this weekend!
I cut the intercooler piping up and had to go buy another 90 degree 2.5", also removed more sheet metal near the tow hook on the passenger side but I was able to bolt everything up with t-bolts. After the piping was on I decided it was time to put water in the radiator and fill up the system. I noticed as the car started getting warmer It started to idle lower until it was sputtering around 200rpm and dying.
Do you guys think this could be my ECU temperature sensor? I need to get the exhaust down pipe constructed and after that I need to pull my codes and see whats up.
07-14-14, 09:09 PM
I still need to hook up heater hoses.
The other mess is the rear heater core hose. Right now with the hose I bought and put on, I forgot to cut it shorter and mount it as the motor was going into the engine, which I should've done but it was pretty stressful putting the motor in at the time and it slipped my thought. 
Anyways, tomorrows project is attempting to do the heater core hoses without having to bypass my heater core. We will see, and then intercooler piping! 
(thank you to those who has posted correct information) all I had to do was jump the resistor labeled "R7" next to the orange plug in the center. Soldered a wire in there and WAHLAH! tach works now 
