8052JZ's NA-T Build
Got the smoke thing figured out and now the car is back on the road... just waiting for smog sticker to come in and ill get a few video's. Runs like nothing happened.
I replaced the return flange on the turbo with one that has a bigger opening for better oil flow. Sense the turbo was out I had my buddy look over it and just do a rebuild on it to freshen it all up to insure all the seals and bearings are good to go. Drove the car around for a bit on side roads to make sure no more oil is leaking.
I replaced the return flange on the turbo with one that has a bigger opening for better oil flow. Sense the turbo was out I had my buddy look over it and just do a rebuild on it to freshen it all up to insure all the seals and bearings are good to go. Drove the car around for a bit on side roads to make sure no more oil is leaking.
The hole on the previous flange was just small and probably restrictive and backing up the oil like you mentioned and went through the oil seal on the turbo.
I also finally got the new quality heim joints for the TC Sportline UCA sense they are known to fail. Took the local bearing shop about 3 weeks to track down this specific size so it was all plug an play. I come to find out that these same bearings are used on the marks engineering control arms so I'm confident these are of good quality American made hiem joints.
For anyone that is interested in the size for the front are M16 x 1.5 heim joint/rod end bearing.
Unfortunately, I thought both the rear and fronts are the same and turns out the rears are different so I will have to source out whatever the size is for the rear. Looks to be a standard thread size for the rear
For anyone that is interested in the size for the front are M16 x 1.5 heim joint/rod end bearing.
Unfortunately, I thought both the rear and fronts are the same and turns out the rears are different so I will have to source out whatever the size is for the rear. Looks to be a standard thread size for the rear
I need some help from who may know whats going on!!
I'm finally driving the car after the turbo manifold upgrade with twin turbosmart 45 wastegates and new turbo but for what ever reason I am not able to boost past 12psi?!?!?! I put it to the floor I can hear the turbo start spooling, I'm watching the boost gauge and she will simply not go any higher than 12psi? The two gates have 14psi springs in them, I tripple checked vac lines from boost controller to gates, looked for any possibly exhaust leaks which I couldn't find and still not able to get past 12psi?!?!?!? Shouldn't I at least being seeing 14psi being that is what the gate spring rates are??
I did a few logs on the aem and it's indeed showing only 12psi with about %60-%70 throttle. I sent off the info to the tuner and he says the tune looks fine?!?!
Anyone ever run into this problem or have any idea of what I should check?
I'm finally driving the car after the turbo manifold upgrade with twin turbosmart 45 wastegates and new turbo but for what ever reason I am not able to boost past 12psi?!?!?! I put it to the floor I can hear the turbo start spooling, I'm watching the boost gauge and she will simply not go any higher than 12psi? The two gates have 14psi springs in them, I tripple checked vac lines from boost controller to gates, looked for any possibly exhaust leaks which I couldn't find and still not able to get past 12psi?!?!?!? Shouldn't I at least being seeing 14psi being that is what the gate spring rates are??
I did a few logs on the aem and it's indeed showing only 12psi with about %60-%70 throttle. I sent off the info to the tuner and he says the tune looks fine?!?!
Anyone ever run into this problem or have any idea of what I should check?
Sounds like the boost controller is wide open and your running off spring pressure. Are you certain the boost controller is duty cycling? Is it a twin scroll with the gates being separated? Maybe one gate is still opening fully at spring pressure.
You could boost leak test the car with the ignition on and see if the boost solenoid opens and shuts after 12psi to verify that it's working. Or pull the vacuum lines off the gates and see if you can achieve over 12psi then shut it down. Then you can rule out any leaks around the gates and manifold and it's definitely a boost control issue.
You could boost leak test the car with the ignition on and see if the boost solenoid opens and shuts after 12psi to verify that it's working. Or pull the vacuum lines off the gates and see if you can achieve over 12psi then shut it down. Then you can rule out any leaks around the gates and manifold and it's definitely a boost control issue.
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Sounds like the boost controller is wide open and your running off spring pressure. Are you certain the boost controller is duty cycling? Is it a twin scroll with the gates being separated? Maybe one gate is still opening fully at spring pressure.
You could boost leak test the car with the ignition on and see if the boost solenoid opens and shuts after 12psi to verify that it's working. Or pull the vacuum lines off the gates and see if you can achieve over 12psi then shut it down. Then you can rule out any leaks around the gates and manifold and it's definitely a boost control issue.
You could boost leak test the car with the ignition on and see if the boost solenoid opens and shuts after 12psi to verify that it's working. Or pull the vacuum lines off the gates and see if you can achieve over 12psi then shut it down. Then you can rule out any leaks around the gates and manifold and it's definitely a boost control issue.
I will pull the lines off the gates and see what happens. How do I go about doing the boost leak test?
Last edited by 8052JZ; Mar 18, 2015 at 09:48 AM.
I did a boost leak down test last night and turns out I had a pretty good size leak. Coupler from the turbo to intercooler had the leak so I tightened the clamp and the leak stopped. This morning I was able to hit 14psi alot quicker than before but dint have enough room to go any further. Ill have to do a better pull later today to confirm that this was indeed my problem.
I made this contraption to do the test for around $30.
I made this contraption to do the test for around $30.
Did a few pulls after work yesterday and still not able to go past 14psi per the logs. On my way to work I did see the boost guage hit 17psi but after that it would stay at 14psi. Talked with Omar, and he suggests I get a new boost solenoid to see if the valve is gone. Ordering one today. Tune in later..
Last edited by 8052JZ; Mar 20, 2015 at 09:30 AM.
What psi...wastegate springs do you have installed.....
If they are both 14psi springs in the wastegates......you know something is up tru boost valve...
Have you tried running it straight off the wastegates?
If they are both 14psi springs in the wastegates......you know something is up tru boost valve...
Have you tried running it straight off the wastegates?