gerrb

iTrader: (34)

I really like the way my fender pulls / flaring came out . It makes the car look wider and lowered . Can't wait for summer to be around fast enough so I can paint Red Mamba Two and Old Man Tan

Serg02

[QUOTE=Ezroni;9871759]it better not be that '96 renaissance red 5spd one my friend and I were trying to buy someone snatched it right before we could take a look at it haha. But welcome to the club man

oh no man. I'm from Michigan lol and mines is preal white but thanks hope I am learn a lot.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

I have made up my mind on what color Red Mamba Two will be. It will be from the 85-86 Supra MK3 , Super Deep Red 3F2 . I have seen a MK3 at Speed For Sale the other day with that dark colored red , it was really awesome. It is darker than the original color of Garnet Pearl Red or Barcelona Red that I originally wanted for this car. Someone also asked how does the flare / pull look from the rear , pictures would follow below. BTW , this car doesn't have coil overs that is why it rides so good also . It still has Tokico Shocks with the RS-R Lowering Springs.

97-SC300

iTrader: (17)

Gerrb, doing mild flares like you did in my opinion is the best and cleanest way to get extra width out of the rear quarter panels if that's the look you're going for.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I was always a fan of Toyota Super Red, its almost like renaissance but a little brighter, should look really nice. Flares came out good too!!

mteele

iTrader: (5)

Looking back I could not find any progress pics on the rear fenders, only before and after - did you document what you used and how far they were pulled out?

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

It's discussed over the last few pages starting at page 266.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

I agree . Not unless someone really wants the wide bodied look , this is the way to go if one just wants to fit in 345 tires at the rear to put the power down he is making.

Yeah it as a very pretty color . I couldn't get my eyes off the car once I saw it.

As mentioned by Blkexcoupe , go some pages back and you will see how I did it and the tool I used. I was able to push the panel and its ceiling 55mm out from where the stock rim / tire was (like having a -5 offset meaning you can add a 55mm spacer and that stock wheel / tire will be flushed to the pulled / flared quarter panel). IMHO, it is the most you can get without distorting or damaging anything. You reach that point in which you push one part and it starts pulling the opposite side of the panel. It is subtle looking but at the same time will allow you to have 345/40 wide tires on a 12" Work Wheels (Deep Rim O-Disk with 125mm lip) with an offset of +20. That is a set of very wide and meaty tires for those making good power . And for those who are after looks , it will look so mean seeing them from behind. The APTech rear bumper made the car look really lowered and wider together with those flares. Every one who has seen this car even without a paint job yet can't help but admire its mean stance. Once painted Super Deep Red , this car will look really good with its full black interior , no tint on the windows and other glasses and red/black themed 2jzgte engine bay.

Thanks



NOW it makes me wonder whether I will do the same pull and flares for the old man tan . Well , probably not since I have already started flaring Red Mamba One too. Nice to have some variations between my SCs.

CatManD3W

iTrader: (18)

Gerry have you considered do a vinyl wrap on the cars....its would be much cheaper than paint. Priced out it could be around $500-$600 if you do the wrap yourself.

Nice work on the pull in the back....its looks awesome......when are you getting your new wheels and tires?

CatManD3W

iTrader: (18)

Some pictures from the inside would help some of us out to understand what you need to do to get this type of pull

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Thanks Ryan . I don't know yet on the Work VS-XX since I am still trying to make sure that the fronts I wanted (75mm or 87mm lip A-Disk) will clear 15" BBKs . For the Rear (125mm lip O-Disk) I have no problem clearing them.. No one so far can guarantee me the fronts and I hate to get something that wouldn't fit. Besides need to gather some more funds since with the tires the damn set will set me back around $4k .The wheels and tires that are on RM2 would work for now. Those are a new set of rims and tires anyway. Though a gold set of Work VS-XX on RM2 would be awesome. Time for me to let go 2 out of the 6 SCs to free up some funds and get the Good Look Goodies now that I am almost done with the Go Fast Goodies .

For the wrap , I would prefer a paint job. I want to learn and it will be a skill that would always come very handy since I have 16 vehicles right now. A paint job can always be useful.


Ryan , there is really nothing to show inside the quarter panel on a picture . Basically , you keep pushing it from the inside till you get the right clearance and flare shape you want , then smoothen out the outside flare imperfection with body filler. The less body filler you use to shape it up , better. So be patient in pushing the panel till you get the flare and form you want. Some pages back I posted the Portable Pneumatic Puller I used. I used it to push that panel to bulge outward instead of pull. It has a lot of different attachments you can use .

Just remember you need to push that wheel well ceiling also. If you don't , all you can get is a 1" lip pushed outward which you see in many SCs which for me doesn't look good. I guess to each their own.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Someone at Jim's thread wanted to use the Cruise Control Combination Switch for something else since he was taking away his cruise control motor at the engine bay. Yes ... it is very possible to make use of that combination switch on the steering wheel for something else.

The Cruise Control has the a) ON-OFF .... b) Cancel ... c) Set/Coast ... d) Reset/Accel . They are basically push buttons, ON when pressed and OFF when released. Only the button a)ON-OFF can be used without modifying the combination switch internally. The other three have resistors that have to be bypassed and each of them should have their individual wire to use them individually or separate from each other.

I have modified the combination switch internally so I have all 4 push button available for my use. On top of it , I installed another modified combination switch on the left side so I can use the b)Cancel button on each side for my UP and DOWN Transmission shifting . In short , they are now my paddle shifters to shift the transmission of the SC with the 2jzgte VVTi by flipping the b)Cancel button upwards (left side of steering wheel to shift down & right side to shift up). I also have 3 extra buttons on each side which I can use for whatever purpose I may need



Thinking of doing the same for Black Pearl so I can eliminate all the push buttons I needed for my direct port nitrous , intercooler spray , nitrous purge and others. The current push buttons I have on Black Pearl are all on a panel at the center console box. That means I don't have to take away any of my hands from the steering wheel to reach a push button.



.

LoveSCs

iTrader: (2)

Hey Gerry are you running a transmission controller that allows manual shifting? How does it handle line pressure?

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

The 2jzGTE VVTi ECU , depending on how you wire your engine harness , allows you to shift the TT transmission up or down using paddle shifters.

Since our steering wheels do not have paddle shifters , installing one cruise control switch on each side of the steering wheel did the trick .

On the Auto TT transmissions, line pressure is controlled by the solenoids on the valve body which are in turn controlled by the 2jzGTE ECU.

babillarac

Looking really good bro. Hey did you change cell numbers?