Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

I learned that lessen trying to pull a dent out on my friend's S2000. The more you pull in one spot it creates a cavity somewhere else.

Eastwood pricing is hit or miss. I found a lot of deals on amazon when looking for bodywork tools. You're eventually going to need these towels too.

atoledo

^^^ Those towels are a must.

Also if you have any vinyl dressing products around do not use them or keep them anywhere near where you are going to paint - can cause fish eyes. Rainy days and putting water on the floor before painting keep dust and air particles down to a minimum.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Thanks guys .. will definitely start collecting stuff like that ... things that I need for painting. That would be a good experience for me eventually .... painting my own toys.

Reyke

Gerrb, just to clarify but what front wheel dimensions are you planning on running, and are you sure you can fit a 18x12 +25 345/35r18, is there enough fender well to allow that much wheel and tire??

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

my fronts will be 18x10" +38 265/35R18

I am sure 18x12" +25 wheels and 345/35R18 tires will fit . If you observed well the pictures I posted , on that car I currently have 305/35R18 Mickey Thompson ET Street II tires .



Check the amount of flare I was able to push the fender out from where the current tire is .. it is a bit more than 40mm . If you do some computations , from 305 , to fit in 345 .. you need 40mm .. but from an offset of +35 to +25 that means only 30mm will go towards the out side of the wheel or fender and 10mm will be inside coil-over area . So that means I still have an extra 10mm to spare from the flare I did but you will not have a lot of room on the coil-over side and front lower wheel well wall so that will be the max size tire with that flare.



I am definitely sure a 345 tire will easily fit. So am ordering 18x12" +25 wheels ... either Weld RT-S or CCW 3 piece Classic wheels which should look good on that car. I am deciding now whether to keep it a 96 look or one with the APTech Body kit . I really don't need the APT Tech wide body anymore. This will be my go around daily driver eventually at around 600-700rwhp with after market twins so I want it to look really good . After all , this will be one of the SCs I believe that will stay long with me.

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

You can go up to 12.5 on the wheel if you feel like it's necessary. You'll have to maintain the same outer lip position, but you should have another 30mm of clearance on the inside if you hammer everything flat and run coilovers with 2.5" linear rate springs.

The setup that I use as reference for inside clearance is Cherplex's car. He used 18x12 +55 with a 315/30/18. The maximum back spacing (hub towards inside of the car) is 207.4mm with a coilover. If you have supra tt springs and shocks or air suspension, then it's around 180 to 190mm.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

This car currently has Tokico shocks and RS-R lowering springs but will install the Tein Driving Spec Control Master Type Flex coil-overs I have around in the next couple of days once am done shaping the fender flares. I need to have flexibility in adjusting height with my plans on this car so coil-overs are a must even if the car looks good with its current suspension.



I can actually go from 18x12" to 12.5" or 13" as long as I keep the offset at +25. No other adjustment necessary at this point. The 345s will work on any of those wheels and be on exactly same spot in reference to the fender and coil-over / inner wheel well wall.The advantage of a wider rim though is I can have a wider lip / deeper dish on the wheels which makes it even look better. The real estate occupied will still be a width of 345mm since the 13" rims are only 330mm. I will just have to decide if I want the rims that wide.

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

18x12 +25, 18x12.5 +31, and 18x13 +38 would all maintain the same clearance between the lip of the wheel and outside of the fender. The clearance between the inner lip and coilover reduces by 6mm with each additional 1/2" added to the rim.

You can change the lips in increments of 12.7mm. With your current pull, you won't have enough clearance add an additional 12.7mm (from 18x12 +25). The advantage to running a wider wheel is to control how much the tire bulges and the relative stiffness of the sidewall.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

^^^ Thanks . If you do increase offset while increasing wheel width (18x12 +25, 18x12.5 +31, and 18x13 +38) as you mentioned then isn't the inner part of the wheel / tire going nearer the coil-over ? Where as IF the offset remains the same at +25 (that is if you can get 12.5" and 13" wheels with that offset) then tire position remains same in relation to fender and coil-over. I maybe wrong but that is what I am getting when I lodged the numbers at the Size Comparer from RimsNTires dot Com

The 18x12" are good enough for me . They are the recommended wheel size for the Mickey Thompson ET Street II 345/35R18 so there are no bulges. If I go wider wheels then I am going towards stretch territory . One day I might also use the Toyo R888 335/30R18 which are even a bit narrower. With 345 tires being the widest I will use , I believe the 18x12" wheels would be perfect for me.

I have just checked on the Weld RT-S , they don't have 18x12" so I guess my choice will be between CCW Classic and Work VS-XX . Reason why I wanted the Weld RT-S was I was also planning to get a pair of 15x10" for the rear so I can eventually use 325/50R15 MT ET Street II tires .

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

Ok, I see what you meant now. You're correct in your interpretation, but in the application it won't work. The fender is your limitation.

The way that I choose to do it keeps the outside lip in the same position while moving the inner lip closer to the shock. There is still space on the inside, so that's why I would recommend that route. In all 3 sizes the track width (outside edge of driver tire to outside edge of passenger tire) will be the same

In your case (keeping +25mm offset), all 3 sizes measured from center of tire to center of tire should be the same (keeping the same position), but the track width will increase by 12mm per 1/2" increase in rim width. The 12.5 +25 might be doable, but the 13 +25 is cutting it really close.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

^^^ I see now where we differ , thus the confusion .. You are focusing on the wheel in relation to its distance to the fender (for its front side) and its distance to the coil-over (for its back side).

You want the wheel (fender side) to stay where it is (same distance to the fender) regardless whether it is 12 or 12.5 or 13 inch wide . So if you increase wheel width , you increase the offset thus the inner part of the wheel goes nearer the coil over. Your measurements are based on the wheel width .

BUT my tires are 345... wider than the 13" wheels , my measurements are based on the tire clearance to the fender and coil-over . Keeping the same offset , the tire will still be on the same spot near the fender and near the coil-over BUT the wheel itself will go nearer the fender and coil-over as you increase the width of the wheel from 12 to 12.5" to 13" since you are widening it actually on both sides WHILE my 345 tire remains same.

Here is an example below.. the only thing that changed is the wheel width from 12" to 13" but tire and wheel offset are same ... Check the results , fender and suspension clearance are same ... Am I making sense ? That is why even if I use 12.5" or 13" as long as i have same offset .. wheel / tire will clear fender and coil-over ... that is made possible by the changes in Back Spacing when the wheels got wider.





Does this clear the confusion ? OR it just made it worse .. hahaha . Try playing around with the Size Comparer : http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp


.

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

I understood what you meant before. The contact patch of the tire will remain in the same position for 12 or 13" wheels. If you did it my way, an 18x13 +38 would move the contact patch 13mm towards the shock.

The tire calculator is a valuable tool, but I wouldn't trust it over a wheel offset calculator. There are too many variable (wheel width, tire brand, psi) for me to rely on a tire calc.

We both agree that a 18x12 +25 will work, so that's all that really matters.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Spent a couple of hours today , after one of my local forum buddy paid me a visit , hand shaping my pulled fenders using Grit 50 and now I can use a DA Sander to smoothen them out with grit 80 and 180 and 240 ... then later 400 for the whole car. With a little bit more work , those pulled fenders will look even better . They already look good according to Eldon who visited me today. I also did install a different set of wheels that had an offset of +25 so I can confirm my measurements. I wanted to make sure I can fit 345 tires at the rear .<br /><br />Before the day ended I ordered the Work Wheels VS-XX 18x12.5" +26 O-disk for the Rears which will give me a lip of 125mm (5 inches) and 18x10" +34 R-disk for the Fronts with a lip of 62mm (2.5 inches). I had to make sure that BBK Brembos will also fit so i had to talk to someone who had good knowledge of Work Wheels before I placed the order. I had to go with 12.5" width wheels cause for me to get a lip of 125mm with the 12" wide wheels , I will have to go with the +20 O-disk offset which wouldn't work for the amount of pull I had. The 345 tires for the rear and 265 tires for the fronts will follow later since those are easier to pickup from Summit Racing which is not very far from me.<br /><br />Driver Side &amp; Passenger Side pictures attached

APTech

iTrader: (1)

coming along great gerrb!

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

Looking good so far with RM1!