scott101

so i pulled the old steering wheel. im putting in an aftermarket one. Im not sure what people typically do regarding that black plastic circular blinker releaser thing, but my new hub for the steering wheel does not fit with the blinker release on because the wire plug gets in the way. anyways, I think im going to but a (t3 or a similar) steering wheel spacer, because despite my long hub and deep wheel I would still like the steering wheel to be a bit closer.
the steering wheel is a mooneyes california in red. Its my favorite steering wheel, and Ive been meaning to get it and swap steering wheels for a while, I just never got around to it. the hub is just a generic toyota hub off ebay.

wire-wheeled the crap out of the diff and painted it with some old engine paint I had left over from an l28 rebuild. I plan on painting the subframe black with some rustoleum gloss black I had left over from something previous (cant even remember what)

edit: have everything back in
I dont think the stock rlca camber adjustment is enough for me. I maxed it out, but its still not idea. I think I might do my fender work first so I can allow the car to drop down all the way to see what the camber is like all the way at ride height. then ill know wether or not i need to buy adjustable uca's for the rear. the front should be fine because Im not planning on running a ton of camber.

scott101

pics of subframe and diff painter and theyre now installed

scott101

pretty much have everything back together, next up is abs delete and then bleed brakes

scott101

so here is my steering wheel update post. its installed now. I got an adapter for it (3 bolt to 6 bolt) and I also had to get a spring from the hardware store and I had to clip down and use a couple of washers as spacers. but now its in and it feel good. Im either going to get a hub spacer or a quick release because I would still like it a couple more inches closer to me

the only thing left to do in my interior is the shifter, then it will pretty much be where I want it

I also have my original steering wheel, wiper fluid, and cruise control for sale

scott101

hey I have a quick question for you guys
when I rebuilt/assembled my rear end, on all of the bolts I greased the bolt shaft (so that the bolt shaft would not freeze to the inner bushing sleeve) and I also greased the threads of each bolt so that the nut would not get stuck/freeze on the threads
on a second thought, I think that it might have been a bad idea to grease the threads because they are now more likely to come loose. Is this true? or will they be fine greased and well torqued down?

thanks for the help

scott101

hello,
I have another question about the sc300 bmc. there are two ports, one for the front, one for the back im guessing. which port is for the rear brakes and which one is for the front. (im guessing they have built in bias-more towards the front)

thanks
scott

scott101

Hello, just to confirm, is this correct?

scott101

I removed that circular plastic ring device from behind the steering wheel before I installed the new one. I clipped the yellow wire (with two small wires inside of it). Im not sure if this is part of the harness, but after I removed it somehting funny happens

when I turn my car on, the climate control is completely off. None of the buttons work or do anything. But when I turn my headlights on, the climate control turns on. Actually, it turns on full blast heat. You still cannot control with with the buttons. And as soon as you turn the lights back off the climate control turns back off

im going to take the trim around the climate control off again and make sure all the wires are correct but I believe they are, so im not sure what the cause of my problem is.
thanks
scott

scott101

an update on my front bumper. I cut out the middle cross section things because I didnt like the way they looked and ive been sanding it down to get all the cracked paint out so it can be painted. I am then going to fill the license plate holes, badge holes, and side turn indicators and Im planning on making a small built in foam lip on the bottom of it.

and here are a couple of pictures of the car with the a-dish on the front (rear fenders have not been rolled/modified enough yet to fit the rears)
and Im still working on the bbs's. I think im going to go get the lips chromed

scott101

And i pulled out the radiator and cut out the center of my bend rad support. then I drilled out the spot welds on one side and am in the middle of doing the other side. Once both sides are out im actually not planning on replacing it but rather welding in a new bar for the lower rad support from tow hook to tow hook as seen on the skid racing build. I also just bought an upped intake manifold, will be buying an exhaust manifold, wastegate, turbo, and other parts soon for turbo conversion. (i will actually be getting some of them from my friends car when he pulls his motor)

thats pretty much where I am right now. looking forward to getting the rear fenders out wide soon and pulling the motor

scott101

so ive been doing some work on my car. i finished drilling out the spot welds on the lower rad support and removed it completely. also just finished dropping motor/trans/front end susp/exhaust/driveshaft

scott101

one more pic

scott101

I am also going to make a tube lower rad support from tow hook to tow hook (skid racing builds idea). Im going to be cutting out the top rad support and run a bolt in one up top and just use hood pins. that way my two frame rails will be connected only by bolt on parts. that way it is super easy for removing the motor/trans assembly.

scott101

and the piece of frame rail that i need to replace. this will be spotweld-drilled out and ill weld a new one in

Reyke

First off I don't know how you don't get frustrated with no one answering any of your questions, as for your repair work of the frame rail, you sure it's absolutely necessary to go the route you're going. Why not use a frame machine, granted at the point you are now you would need to put a good amount of stuff back to be able to move it with relative ease