HiPSI's NA-T / Build Thread - Billet 6265 in store
12-02-11, 08:00 AM
#91
I have heard of people doing it with a holesaw, but I dont think its as good as the unibit/stepbit.
reason 1 is that there is a chance of the hole you cut out falling in the pan.
also, with the step bit, it sort of spirals the shavings back with the grease, and you can see everytime the bit goes up to the next diameter/step, and then you clean and regrease.
For greasing I would stick the entire bit (still on the drill) into a can of grease, I mean really thick on there, and then you drill for like 5-10 sec at a slow speed, then you wipe it all off with a towel, and redip and repeat.
flush oil from on top of valve cover, if you can get another hose flush oil from the drilled opening as well.
reason 1 is that there is a chance of the hole you cut out falling in the pan.
also, with the step bit, it sort of spirals the shavings back with the grease, and you can see everytime the bit goes up to the next diameter/step, and then you clean and regrease.
For greasing I would stick the entire bit (still on the drill) into a can of grease, I mean really thick on there, and then you drill for like 5-10 sec at a slow speed, then you wipe it all off with a towel, and redip and repeat.
flush oil from on top of valve cover, if you can get another hose flush oil from the drilled opening as well.
12-02-11, 07:37 PM
#92
I have heard of people doing it with a holesaw, but I dont think its as good as the unibit/stepbit.
reason 1 is that there is a chance of the hole you cut out falling in the pan.
also, with the step bit, it sort of spirals the shavings back with the grease, and you can see everytime the bit goes up to the next diameter/step, and then you clean and regrease.
For greasing I would stick the entire bit (still on the drill) into a can of grease, I mean really thick on there, and then you drill for like 5-10 sec at a slow speed, then you wipe it all off with a towel, and redip and repeat.
flush oil from on top of valve cover, if you can get another hose flush oil from the drilled opening as well.
reason 1 is that there is a chance of the hole you cut out falling in the pan.
also, with the step bit, it sort of spirals the shavings back with the grease, and you can see everytime the bit goes up to the next diameter/step, and then you clean and regrease.
For greasing I would stick the entire bit (still on the drill) into a can of grease, I mean really thick on there, and then you drill for like 5-10 sec at a slow speed, then you wipe it all off with a towel, and redip and repeat.
flush oil from on top of valve cover, if you can get another hose flush oil from the drilled opening as well.
12-19-11, 11:12 AM
#95
I have heard of people doing it with a holesaw, but I dont think its as good as the unibit/stepbit.
reason 1 is that there is a chance of the hole you cut out falling in the pan.
also, with the step bit, it sort of spirals the shavings back with the grease, and you can see everytime the bit goes up to the next diameter/step, and then you clean and regrease.
For greasing I would stick the entire bit (still on the drill) into a can of grease, I mean really thick on there, and then you drill for like 5-10 sec at a slow speed, then you wipe it all off with a towel, and redip and repeat.
flush oil from on top of valve cover, if you can get another hose flush oil from the drilled opening as well.
reason 1 is that there is a chance of the hole you cut out falling in the pan.
also, with the step bit, it sort of spirals the shavings back with the grease, and you can see everytime the bit goes up to the next diameter/step, and then you clean and regrease.
For greasing I would stick the entire bit (still on the drill) into a can of grease, I mean really thick on there, and then you drill for like 5-10 sec at a slow speed, then you wipe it all off with a towel, and redip and repeat.
flush oil from on top of valve cover, if you can get another hose flush oil from the drilled opening as well.
I'm also going to pick up some studs from lowes to use to bolt the oil pan flange to the oil pan. I'm thinking about getting 2 studs sized at m8x1.25, drilling the pan and tapping it. What size is generally used for these mounting holes on the oil pan?
12-19-11, 03:20 PM
#96
depends on the size line you are running and if you are tapping the center hole.
I think I used a 1/2 but I only have a 8an return line.
I would recommend not even bothering with the side holes at all.
that flange always leaks, i tried all kinds of gaskets and everything leaked when making left turns.
I ditched the flange and tapped the center hole and used a 3/8" to 8an adapter. you can also do 1/2 to 10 an or whatever fitting you can find.
I put the fitting in with thread sealant and it Hasn't leaked a drop since.
M8 is the right size for the 2 side holes, but you have been warned.
I think I used a 1/2 but I only have a 8an return line.
I would recommend not even bothering with the side holes at all.
that flange always leaks, i tried all kinds of gaskets and everything leaked when making left turns.
I ditched the flange and tapped the center hole and used a 3/8" to 8an adapter. you can also do 1/2 to 10 an or whatever fitting you can find.
I put the fitting in with thread sealant and it Hasn't leaked a drop since.
M8 is the right size for the 2 side holes, but you have been warned.
12-19-11, 03:56 PM
#98
depends on the size line you are running and if you are tapping the center hole.
I think I used a 1/2 but I only have a 8an return line.
I would recommend not even bothering with the side holes at all.
that flange always leaks, i tried all kinds of gaskets and everything leaked when making left turns.
I ditched the flange and tapped the center hole and used a 3/8" to 8an adapter. you can also do 1/2 to 10 an or whatever fitting you can find.
I put the fitting in with thread sealant and it Hasn't leaked a drop since.
M8 is the right size for the 2 side holes, but you have been warned.
I think I used a 1/2 but I only have a 8an return line.
I would recommend not even bothering with the side holes at all.
that flange always leaks, i tried all kinds of gaskets and everything leaked when making left turns.
I ditched the flange and tapped the center hole and used a 3/8" to 8an adapter. you can also do 1/2 to 10 an or whatever fitting you can find.
I put the fitting in with thread sealant and it Hasn't leaked a drop since.
M8 is the right size for the 2 side holes, but you have been warned.
12-19-11, 04:23 PM
#100
Even though my flange has not leaked, since you are single turbo, I would still tap the actual drain hole like Ali. A hole and thread as large as that drain should offer plenty of bite for a threaded fitting to seal up nicely.
It seems like it would be easier than messing with the two little annoying holes. And trust me, they are annoying to drill and tap. Unless you go all the way through the pan you will need a good bottom tap to get any decent thread depth.
It seems like it would be easier than messing with the two little annoying holes. And trust me, they are annoying to drill and tap. Unless you go all the way through the pan you will need a good bottom tap to get any decent thread depth.
12-24-11, 09:43 AM
#101
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im using the flange from beech performance that i purchased from dm but my car isnt running yet so idk if itll leak, i doubt it but it will be an easy fix. just make sure you clean that spot before you use any sealants or gaskets and im sure you should be fine but ali is speaking from experience so i wouldnt doubt it. im using a -10 fitting
12-27-11, 02:06 PM
#102
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Sorry if this is an old question being asked to you again but why did you decide to go with divided housing and 1.00ar?
I just got my turbo today and went with undivided .81ar but for a long time I was contemplating if I should get the same size you chose. Let me know because I can still return It if anything.
I just got my turbo today and went with undivided .81ar but for a long time I was contemplating if I should get the same size you chose. Let me know because I can still return It if anything.
12-27-11, 03:40 PM
#103
Sorry if this is an old question being asked to you again but why did you decide to go with divided housing and 1.00ar?
I just got my turbo today and went with undivided .81ar but for a long time I was contemplating if I should get the same size you chose. Let me know because I can still return It if anything.
I just got my turbo today and went with undivided .81ar but for a long time I was contemplating if I should get the same size you chose. Let me know because I can still return It if anything.
.
12-27-11, 08:33 PM
#105
For the igniter wiring? Or that random wire for the IAT that I had laying out in the open lol? The igniter wires used some larger plastic black wire loom or shroud that you can buy at advance and then wrapped it in electrical tape. The wires leading to the COP I used some 1/4" shrink wrap for wiring and fed the wires through, then heated it tight with a heat gun so that it was tight against the wires. You can buy this rubber shrink wrap online and it comes in a big roll but it protects the wires really well and it allows you to feed any amount through it and then heat it shut or closed.