HiPSI's NA-T / Build Thread - Billet 6265 in store
07-09-14, 12:24 PM
#286
Gotta love simple errors that make you think the worst! The way the car was running I thought for sure I had fried the JDM 6spd ECU that I just installed.
I double and triple checked EVERYTHING and while reading through the forums of idle issues and surging I had read one post where a guy had somehow crimped the intake gasket when reinstalling the intake plenum which caused these terrible noises and uncontrollable idle. So as a last resort I took apart the plenum and low and behold:
This was stuck in the intake plenum between the flanges I must of squished it during the process and tightened it down.
This is how terrible the engine sounded:
So I buttoned everything up and got a chance to make my 4" intake finally now the distributor cap is gone.
The car runs perfect! Happy ending I thought for sure I had messed the ECU up. If you notice, there still is no BOV on the setup. I am still undecided if I wanna go with the Tial Q or HKS SQV4, or possibly a diverter valve from the EVO 9 which would be alot cheaper. I like the fact that the HKS remains closed at idle, the tial is the obvious winner in terms of flow and design but getting it to remain closed at idle will take the right spring and some shimming.
Some Idle Videos showing the setup:
Idle Airfuel:
Now I'm waiting shipment on my new innovate motorsports scg-1 Wideband / Boost Controller.
It's got a wideband, boost controller, boost gauge, and failsafe settings based on user defined boost settings and wideband readings.
- All-in-one, intelligent boost controller and wideband air/fuel ratio controller
- Controller and display housed in 52mm (2 1/6”) gauge body
- Patented DirectDigital™ Wideband Technology
- Boost control adjustment up to 44psi (4 BAR MAP Sensor)
- User programmable boost cut safety using Air/Fuel and Pressure references
- Programmable waste gate reference pressure threshold
- Programmable solenoid duty cycle with separate gain control function
- No PC required for configuration and use (Required for data logging)
- OLED user configurable display
- Programmable shift light
- Wideband O² Compatible with ALL fuel types
- Ability to calibrate O² sensor for maximum accuracy
- *One configurable linear 0-5v analog output
- 4 channels of log-able data (MAP, RPM, A/F, WG duty)
- Accessory O² sensor cable lengths sold separately: 3ft, 8ft (Included), and 18ft
- Positive lock connectors for all connections
- Innovate MTS serial in/out (for use with other Innovate MTS enabled devices).
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/scg1.php
Thread on Supraforums:
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...d-Wideband-Kit
I double and triple checked EVERYTHING and while reading through the forums of idle issues and surging I had read one post where a guy had somehow crimped the intake gasket when reinstalling the intake plenum which caused these terrible noises and uncontrollable idle. So as a last resort I took apart the plenum and low and behold:
This was stuck in the intake plenum between the flanges I must of squished it during the process and tightened it down.
This is how terrible the engine sounded:
So I buttoned everything up and got a chance to make my 4" intake finally now the distributor cap is gone.
The car runs perfect! Happy ending I thought for sure I had messed the ECU up. If you notice, there still is no BOV on the setup. I am still undecided if I wanna go with the Tial Q or HKS SQV4, or possibly a diverter valve from the EVO 9 which would be alot cheaper. I like the fact that the HKS remains closed at idle, the tial is the obvious winner in terms of flow and design but getting it to remain closed at idle will take the right spring and some shimming.
Some Idle Videos showing the setup:
Idle Airfuel:
Now I'm waiting shipment on my new innovate motorsports scg-1 Wideband / Boost Controller.
It's got a wideband, boost controller, boost gauge, and failsafe settings based on user defined boost settings and wideband readings.
- All-in-one, intelligent boost controller and wideband air/fuel ratio controller
- Controller and display housed in 52mm (2 1/6”) gauge body
- Patented DirectDigital™ Wideband Technology
- Boost control adjustment up to 44psi (4 BAR MAP Sensor)
- User programmable boost cut safety using Air/Fuel and Pressure references
- Programmable waste gate reference pressure threshold
- Programmable solenoid duty cycle with separate gain control function
- No PC required for configuration and use (Required for data logging)
- OLED user configurable display
- Programmable shift light
- Wideband O² Compatible with ALL fuel types
- Ability to calibrate O² sensor for maximum accuracy
- *One configurable linear 0-5v analog output
- 4 channels of log-able data (MAP, RPM, A/F, WG duty)
- Accessory O² sensor cable lengths sold separately: 3ft, 8ft (Included), and 18ft
- Positive lock connectors for all connections
- Innovate MTS serial in/out (for use with other Innovate MTS enabled devices).
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/scg1.php
Thread on Supraforums:
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...d-Wideband-Kit
Last edited by HiPSI; 07-09-14 at 01:10 PM.
07-09-14, 01:02 PM
#288
gte & na-t
iTrader: (44)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Maryland /Germantown
Posts: 5,139
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Andrey- Looks great man, I am really happy to see you finally enjoying your car after long hours of labor, blood , and tears lol.
Congrats , it looks amazing!!! Bring it to MD so I can check it out.
Congrats , it looks amazing!!! Bring it to MD so I can check it out.
07-09-14, 01:18 PM
#289
.
07-24-14, 02:49 PM
#290
Cleaned up the headlights with some Mother's alum polish.
Also polished the gold off the stock emblem, looks much better.
Decided it was time to put some real oil in the car before I start turning the boost up. This stuff has the highest zinc and phosphorous content available in a full synthetic blend. The car doesn't have cats which is the main reason not to run this stuff in a street car. From Forced Performance, running a "racing oil" is crucial to keeping wear minimal. Since I don't drive the car much I figured it couldn't hurt. I put 1,640 miles on the car last year so it's definitely not a daily!
Bulletin from FP Racing when I purchased my HTA 3586 for my DSM.
http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf
Also polished the gold off the stock emblem, looks much better.
Decided it was time to put some real oil in the car before I start turning the boost up. This stuff has the highest zinc and phosphorous content available in a full synthetic blend. The car doesn't have cats which is the main reason not to run this stuff in a street car. From Forced Performance, running a "racing oil" is crucial to keeping wear minimal. Since I don't drive the car much I figured it couldn't hurt. I put 1,640 miles on the car last year so it's definitely not a daily!
Bulletin from FP Racing when I purchased my HTA 3586 for my DSM.
http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf
Last edited by HiPSI; 07-24-14 at 03:33 PM.
07-24-14, 06:51 PM
#292
I've been reading up on the oil and the life expectancy and it seems like a hard answer to find. They do caution it not for street use due to emissions and it potentially ruining the cat, neither of which I'm concerned with. However I don't expect a long oil change out of it maybe 2-3k miles, I'll keep an eye on it.
07-25-14, 10:20 AM
#293
Took the car for a stroll last night to stretch its legs and turn up the boost some more. Turned up the wastegate duty to 28% and it hit 15.8psi so backed it down to 24%. Ive got about 20% pulled out of the low throttle settings in the SAFC, and 13% pulled out of the Hi throttle setting across the board which nets appx 10.7:1 A/F. It also didnt hit any boost cut from the ecu i was expecting some sort of a harsh cut from the ecu. Maybe the SAFC settings are skewing the boost cut to above 14.5psi like ive read here before.
This boost controller from innovate is awesome as i can set 2 fail safes one for peak boost cut and one for A/F cut after a certain set psi threshold. I've got it set to 12:1 A/F boost cut after over 10psi is achieved so spool up can be leaned out. Car feels wonderful at 15psi its hard to really watch the gauge and control the car. I need to get a serial to usb adapter so i can actually data log the pulls. I can hear / feel the tires or "tire" letting loose in 2nd and part of third the RPM will kinda jump as i roll into throttle.
There is a local dyno in the area i may need to make an appt and get it dialed in. It pulls hard I'm hoping to crack 400whp above 15psi.
This boost controller from innovate is awesome as i can set 2 fail safes one for peak boost cut and one for A/F cut after a certain set psi threshold. I've got it set to 12:1 A/F boost cut after over 10psi is achieved so spool up can be leaned out. Car feels wonderful at 15psi its hard to really watch the gauge and control the car. I need to get a serial to usb adapter so i can actually data log the pulls. I can hear / feel the tires or "tire" letting loose in 2nd and part of third the RPM will kinda jump as i roll into throttle.
There is a local dyno in the area i may need to make an appt and get it dialed in. It pulls hard I'm hoping to crack 400whp above 15psi.
07-25-14, 10:35 AM
#294
I've been reading up on the oil and the life expectancy and it seems like a hard answer to find. They do caution it not for street use due to emissions and it potentially ruining the cat, neither of which I'm concerned with. However I don't expect a long oil change out of it maybe 2-3k miles, I'll keep an eye on it.
Just use conventional oil man...some of the full synthetics are very good.....
I run Valvoline SynPower in 10w30......others like Mobil 1
07-25-14, 02:04 PM
#296
looks great and nice find on the intake crushing the wire, would have driven me nuts.
in this video at 1:35 you can see the ecu going from normal open loop idle to its closed loop idle, the rpm's lower and the afr gets richer but then the ecu adjusts. you might notice it doing this when the temp is cold and when you first come to a stop (rpm's wont go down right away so you can turn easily etc..). Anyhow this is how you know you are in closed loop and everything is set perfect is when it does that and the AFR is dead on.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lu1seo93UJA#t=96
I used to run the valvoline synpower then I switched to Mobil 1 but I like both and would really use either of those in fully synthetic. na-t is hard on the oil without an oil cooler so I would make sure its not something that won't break down fast.
Also on the BOV front since you are on a map car it doesn't have to be closed at idle, I mean it should be, but it doesn't have to, it only messes with maf cars.
in this video at 1:35 you can see the ecu going from normal open loop idle to its closed loop idle, the rpm's lower and the afr gets richer but then the ecu adjusts. you might notice it doing this when the temp is cold and when you first come to a stop (rpm's wont go down right away so you can turn easily etc..). Anyhow this is how you know you are in closed loop and everything is set perfect is when it does that and the AFR is dead on.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lu1seo93UJA#t=96
I used to run the valvoline synpower then I switched to Mobil 1 but I like both and would really use either of those in fully synthetic. na-t is hard on the oil without an oil cooler so I would make sure its not something that won't break down fast.
Also on the BOV front since you are on a map car it doesn't have to be closed at idle, I mean it should be, but it doesn't have to, it only messes with maf cars.
07-25-14, 04:33 PM
#297
I just called Amsoil's tech hotline and explained my setup and driving conditions and was told the oil will be fine if changed at OEM recommended intervals. I'll watch the oil to make sure it doesn't thicken or sludge up but calling amsoil made me feel better about the switch. This stuff is colored bright red which i thought was odd, but should make checking the color for darkness or black easy to identify if bad. Yes i understand its probably overkill but i figure better safe then sorry.
The Innovate controller was easy to setup, straightforward. I've tuned the mac valves before using AEM V2 and it was a similar process. I wish it had a boost target boost setting though, most at this price point don't. One thing that i am still not used to is the digital boost display and not a sweeping analog gauge which I prefer glancing at when rolling 80mph at 7k RPM lol. The AEM UEGO gauge didnt read leaner than 17:1, and pegged rich at 10:1 , the innovate reads from 9:1 - 22.4:1 A/F, which i quickly realized at WOT it was well below 10:1 rich in the mid 9's.
I like that it has failsafes built into it, makes me feel alittle better if i dont notice the tune going to lean during a pull it will cut boost. You cant expect EMS precision with all these separate piggy back electronics (to many variables to fail) , but hopefully the added failsafe will catch a potentially bad situation.
I am so happy to be driving a boost friendly sc300 finally that starts and runs like a stock ecu car, this ECU keeps the same smooth running Lexus appeal without going full racecar quite yet.
The Innovate controller was easy to setup, straightforward. I've tuned the mac valves before using AEM V2 and it was a similar process. I wish it had a boost target boost setting though, most at this price point don't. One thing that i am still not used to is the digital boost display and not a sweeping analog gauge which I prefer glancing at when rolling 80mph at 7k RPM lol. The AEM UEGO gauge didnt read leaner than 17:1, and pegged rich at 10:1 , the innovate reads from 9:1 - 22.4:1 A/F, which i quickly realized at WOT it was well below 10:1 rich in the mid 9's.
I like that it has failsafes built into it, makes me feel alittle better if i dont notice the tune going to lean during a pull it will cut boost. You cant expect EMS precision with all these separate piggy back electronics (to many variables to fail) , but hopefully the added failsafe will catch a potentially bad situation.
I am so happy to be driving a boost friendly sc300 finally that starts and runs like a stock ecu car, this ECU keeps the same smooth running Lexus appeal without going full racecar quite yet.
Last edited by HiPSI; 07-25-14 at 04:36 PM.
07-26-14, 06:24 AM
#299
I ran a Tial Q on the last setup using a 11psi spring. It would stay slightly cracked open at idle. My Car idles vacuum at -19 to -21. From what I understand the best way to fix that small crack in the valve is to shim the spring with a washer versus stepping up to the next 12psi spring which is too stiff.
07-26-14, 12:34 PM
#300