HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

Yeah it threw me for a loop because I thought white meant coolant. It did at times have a slight blue hue to it but mostly a thin white smoke. After I pulled the downpipe it was pretty obvious what was causing it and the center cartridge gushed oil out when I pulled it out of the turbine housing.

Now I'm still dealing with cold start issues but I'm sure it's just my sloppy AEM map. I want Brad Brooks to have a look at it in MD but with him being 5 hours away I don't know if it will happen any time soon in between work and it not wanting to start at all below 50 degrees . Anyone know of a trustworthy 2JZ AEM V2 pro tuner near SW VA? There is a dyno nearby 20 minutes from me that said they would try to learn the system for me but I would rather let someone that knows what their doing tune it. They tune a bunch of mustangs and chevy's.

DoomLight

iTrader: (3)

if u were in florida. this dude Lance. just tuned a IS300 with a 2jzgte vvti. had kelford 272 cams, rods and pistons, custom intake manifold, e85, 2200cc injectors (i think) AEM V2, borg warner 366 i wanna say. he put down 780hp.

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

New Update:

I can't seem to catch a break!! Although what I've found does explain some problems I've been having.


Looks like I've got a blown headgasket! I've been lately dealing with some impossible cold starts. Ever since I got the turbo back from rebuild I could not for the life of me get the car to start. I did replace some of my coolant system components, new thermostat / cap / radiator hoses / and flushed my coolant with new distilled water filled to the top. After I got the turbo back and installed the car would not start so I tried various different start settings on AEM, thought it was my battery so I bought a battery charger / starter that didn't help, so I pulled the plugs.

The spark plugs were drenched in what looked like coolant / water but it did smell like fuel as well (probably from all the starting I had been doing). I then tested the spark plugs ignition outside the motor and as soon as I turned on the motor fluid spewed / sloshed out of 2-3 of the cylinders into the engine bay and then it hit me, I must have a leaking HG that is allowing coolant to fill the cylinders.

Mind you a month or so prior to this the car was smoking a faint white color with an occasional blue tint. I found the turbo leaking alot of oil and chalked the smoke off to it being the turbo causing it. I also did a compression test a month ago and compression was good 200-205 across with one cylinder being 220 which was odd to me at the time. After these good compression results I assumed it must not be the HG. I did notice though however I was losing coolant as it was low, like low enough to where I pulled the upper radiator hose off and nothing came out.

Fast forward to 2 days ago. I'm under the impression now coolant / water must be leaking into the cylinders and fouling out the plugs covering them in water. I did another compression test cold and it came out to 170-180 across with cyl # 1 being alil lower @ 155. It's so odd that it can be still having such good compression but still leaking.

So I drained the coolant completely and retried to start it and bam it starts / chugs and shakes at low idle and then clears out and idles smooth as silk. I added coolant into the system as it idled and then it was very apparent that the HG is bad.



This is what the radiator looks like at idle, it's clearly leaking compression into the coolant system.




Mind you this is fresh brand new oil too, already milkshaked after idling for 5 minutes or so!








So it looks like I'll be pulling the head! I'm going to drive it over to a friends garage and setup shop there. The car runs very good too, I took it for a spin and it drives like nothing is wrong it still feels very peppy and it wants to go into boost very easily, shows no signs of being under powered.

Now the question is, what do I replace while I'm in there?

Here's the list of things I'm going to 100% do:

OEM HG - I have a GTE one but unsure if I should just keep 10:1 compression
ARP Head Studs
TTC 268 cams
BC Racing Springs and retainers
Valve seals
Cam seals
Valve cover seals were replace about a year ago

The car has 94k miles, I have records showing water pump and I think the timing belt has already been done at around 70k before I bought the car. I wonder if I should replace it all anyways?

Also what about the oil pump? Front main seal? Is this something that should be done the car has 94k miles. I'd rather not spend a money on unneeded items but I will if recommended and I see the value eliminating future problems.

lilSCsteve

iTrader: (71)

Hey bro, you should hit up quicksc4...he may be able to trouble shoot this for you. Dude has a lot of knowledge with these type of builds. GL

steve

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

Yeap I've pretty much got him on speed dial!

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

Thanks Steve!

Andrew,

It looks like you overboosted and blew the HG so if you are not gonna use race gas or E85 i would drop a TT hg on it just to be safe.

TT headgasket
ARP Head Studs
TTC 268 cams
BC Racing Springs and retainers
Valve seals
Cam seals
Valve cover gaskets.

Sorry to hear that man!
Valve cover seals

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

Hey Guys just wanted to update this thread. I ended up deciding to part the car out. Stay posted I'm about to list some SC300 specific items for sale on here like the FSMoto FFIM kit, TTC 268 cams, NA-T Turbo kit, AEM V2 6101, ETS Front mount intercooler, Distributor delete setup including COP and 7mGTE CPS w/ billet cover.

I'm also selling the car soon as well. I've been waiting on a Snap On Head stud socket to remove the head and replace the HG.
- The car is an original 5spd low mileage car.
- I have returned the drivetrain back to stock as I sold my 6spd setup already.
- Replaced the fluids in the differential and the w58 with redline.
- I also went ahead and threw in my spare w58 clutch setup that I had ready to go. All brand new items including a new Comp Clutch stage 4 kit w/ sprung disc 6-puck. I had the flywheel professional resurfaced and used brand new flywheel bolts and brand new pressure plate bolts/ New Throw out bearing.
- Brand new Rear main seal from toyota.

I'm returning the car back to stock for the most part but this car will be turbo ready for the next buyer!
- It will have the TT HG and ARP Head studs already done.
- I purchased a toyotool so I'm going to replace the valve stem seals with Supertech valve seals
- New OEM Toyota waterpump w/ seals
- All new Timing components from toyota including belt / tensioner / idler pulley.
- The car has provisions for the Turbo oil lines ready. The Union bolt is drilled and tapped for the oil feed and the oil return has been drilled and is already flanged and sealed with toyota black FIPG.

I'll be leaving the polished TT Supra wheels / BC Racing Coilovers / and the Fujitsubo cat-back exhaust.

Stay tuned!

Li Ls4

iTrader: (12)

damn, sucks to hear ur parting the car out. ill be keeping an eye out for that v2

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

Back in the game!

New inspection, tags, and she's running smooth as ever! In fact after 6 months of being down with only a engine block sitting in the bay and reconstructing it back to OEM pieces I went to start the car for the first time and it started first try like nothing happened!

I'm going to break the new Stage 4 Comp Clutch in on the stock motor and make sure no issues are there. I also deleted the charcoal canister and EGR with zero check engine lights (Maybe because I'm OBD1?).

I'm excited to have it all back together and driving it again! I hope all goes well because I'm eager to slap the PTE 6265 back on and convert to the JDM 6spd TT ecu that I have.

Maintenance Items that were done:
Coolant flush and radiator cleaned out
- New OEM Thermostat
- New OEM Radiator Cap
- New OEM Radiator hoses
- New OEM TT Headgasket
- New ARP Head studs
- New OEM Timing Belt
- New OEM Idler pulley installed w/ Loctite
- New OEM Timing belt tensioner
- New OEM Waterpump

- Cylinder Head was cleaned and resurfaced (Thanks to Omar!)
- EGR Port is deleted with freeze plug in head
- Valves were all carbon cleaned and hand lapped by me
- Brand new Viton Valve Seals
- New OEM Cam Seals
- Cleaned carbon off pistons
- New Spark plugs

- Resurfaced Flywheel
- New OEM Flywheel Bolts
- New OEM Pressure plate bolts
- New Competition Clutch sprung stage 4 clutch
- New Throw out bearing
- New Redline Transmission fluid
- New Differential Fluid

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

wow looks great, glad you decided to stay with it and I see you also did the TT HG and waterpump which is a good move!!
You are gonna like the gte ecu!! just take your time with it.
Cars looking good, reminds me alot of mine both red and no spoiler with tt wheels, except mine is rennaisance red with regular tt wheels and yours is garnet with chrome tt wheels.

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Ali, between your help and Omar's I can't be gracious enough for providing awesome support with my endless questions.

I wanted all the maintenance items to be replaced with oem pieces while I was in there. I put the cruise control back in as well and I need to install the ACIS system.

TOYJOETA

What's the power like with the lowered compression and still being NA?

BAD954BOI

iTrader: (5)

My goodness your car is sexy on those tt wheels.. Got to love a well maintained exterior

tmf2004

iTrader: (15)

very clean.. nice find...

97-SC300

iTrader: (17)

Glad to see you are still in the game man!