Project Lex (92 Royal Jade SC300)
08-04-17, 08:19 AM
#886
I called the local LKQ. Told em what I was looking for, they found a bunch in their national inventory. They have a shipping hub in Minneapolis (I think they do in most large cities). So they just had it shipped to the hub (no cost to me) and I just picked it up from there 2 days later. Was about $135 out the door after tax.
I got my CD009 the same way.
Highly recommend anyone looking for one to try that same approach if u have a LKQ near you.
I got my CD009 the same way.
Highly recommend anyone looking for one to try that same approach if u have a LKQ near you.
08-04-17, 02:10 PM
#888
Dropped off mine and another local's 8.8's to get rebuilt. They will be completely rebuilt with all new bearings/seals/gear-set from Ford Performance. The LSD we chose were from Wavetrac (supposed to be best of the best w/ legit lifetime warranty). Should be done in a week or two, then basically just waiting on Grannas Racing to send the swap kit!
08-04-17, 06:12 PM
#889
I hear you on the LSD. I spent about a month researching what LSD to run. There is no easy/obvious choice like a supra where you just get a TRD or Giken and be done. So many opinions, it was very hard to come to a decision. I almost went with the FRPP one with carbon discs as it's very cost friendly. I almost went Trutrac also. There's actually another local Supra who will be running that (making more power as well). But I read mixed reviews on them as well. Especially pertaining to harsh launches at the strip destroying the gears, which in that kinda torsen diff can become very dangerous very quickly.
In the end, Wavetrac to me and my friend seemed like the best choice for us. Supposed to be about as tough as an LSD comes. We called Eaton and told em we are both 700+ and they flat out said none of there stuff is rated for that power and wouldn't recommend any of their stuff at thatvpower, despite what you might see others pushing the trutrac to. Wavetrac, they have a lifetime warranty that they actually honor. We talked to Ryan @ wavetrac several times. These stubs use their stronger (non c clip) LSD. They said doesn't matter if you break it drifting, drag racing, whatever. They are so confident in their product they will warranty it even if you admit to breaking it on a hard launch at the track. It was their confidence and backing of their own product that ultimately made our decision.
Would,love to hear how the frpp works for you though! Ive heard of guys pushing 800 thru them.
But who knows, hard to decipher facts from BS online, which is what I struggled with researching this topic. It made it a very difficult choice for me.
In the end, Wavetrac to me and my friend seemed like the best choice for us. Supposed to be about as tough as an LSD comes. We called Eaton and told em we are both 700+ and they flat out said none of there stuff is rated for that power and wouldn't recommend any of their stuff at thatvpower, despite what you might see others pushing the trutrac to. Wavetrac, they have a lifetime warranty that they actually honor. We talked to Ryan @ wavetrac several times. These stubs use their stronger (non c clip) LSD. They said doesn't matter if you break it drifting, drag racing, whatever. They are so confident in their product they will warranty it even if you admit to breaking it on a hard launch at the track. It was their confidence and backing of their own product that ultimately made our decision.
Would,love to hear how the frpp works for you though! Ive heard of guys pushing 800 thru them.
But who knows, hard to decipher facts from BS online, which is what I struggled with researching this topic. It made it a very difficult choice for me.
Last edited by Halon; 08-04-17 at 06:19 PM.
08-07-17, 07:58 AM
#891
I hear you on the LSD. I spent about a month researching what LSD to run. There is no easy/obvious choice like a supra where you just get a TRD or Giken and be done. So many opinions, it was very hard to come to a decision. I almost went with the FRPP one with carbon discs as it's very cost friendly. I almost went Trutrac also. There's actually another local Supra who will be running that (making more power as well). But I read mixed reviews on them as well. Especially pertaining to harsh launches at the strip destroying the gears, which in that kinda torsen diff can become very dangerous very quickly.
In the end, Wavetrac to me and my friend seemed like the best choice for us. Supposed to be about as tough as an LSD comes. We called Eaton and told em we are both 700+ and they flat out said none of there stuff is rated for that power and wouldn't recommend any of their stuff at thatvpower, despite what you might see others pushing the trutrac to. Wavetrac, they have a lifetime warranty that they actually honor. We talked to Ryan @ wavetrac several times. These stubs use their stronger (non c clip) LSD. They said doesn't matter if you break it drifting, drag racing, whatever. They are so confident in their product they will warranty it even if you admit to breaking it on a hard launch at the track. It was their confidence and backing of their own product that ultimately made our decision.
Would,love to hear how the frpp works for you though! Ive heard of guys pushing 800 thru them.
But who knows, hard to decipher facts from BS online, which is what I struggled with researching this topic. It made it a very difficult choice for me.
In the end, Wavetrac to me and my friend seemed like the best choice for us. Supposed to be about as tough as an LSD comes. We called Eaton and told em we are both 700+ and they flat out said none of there stuff is rated for that power and wouldn't recommend any of their stuff at thatvpower, despite what you might see others pushing the trutrac to. Wavetrac, they have a lifetime warranty that they actually honor. We talked to Ryan @ wavetrac several times. These stubs use their stronger (non c clip) LSD. They said doesn't matter if you break it drifting, drag racing, whatever. They are so confident in their product they will warranty it even if you admit to breaking it on a hard launch at the track. It was their confidence and backing of their own product that ultimately made our decision.
Would,love to hear how the frpp works for you though! Ive heard of guys pushing 800 thru them.
But who knows, hard to decipher facts from BS online, which is what I struggled with researching this topic. It made it a very difficult choice for me.
Also you know there is a os giken 31 spline axle lsd we can get for the 8.8 rear end. I'm starting with the frpp lsd as i got it for 160 shipped new so I figured I'd try. If or when I start road racing I'll most likely splurge for the os giken as the rx7 guys say its by far the best to go with.
I love the cheap gears we can get with the ford stuff if I had known I would have gone the 8.8. years ago. I'm doing the close ratio tremec with 4.10 gears should make a great combo.
08-07-17, 08:05 AM
#892
I will say first and foremost, I came from DSM's and I'm kinda partial to 5spd gearing because of that. I'd much rather have a 5spd than a 6spd. Someday if someone makes a strong 5spd swap for these and my CD009 dies, I very much may consider moving to a 5spd as it's just my personal preference (a TKO 600 swap for example). But until then, it is what it is.
Right now I run a SC430 3.266 rear end (200mm) with an OEM torsen LSD. So gearing is a hair higher than the US OEM V160 arrangement, but somewhat close and these diffs are a dime a dozen and are just a bolt in application. My opinions of this gearing after driving it on this setup for a couple years is that for highway cruising, I love it. I can cruise at 70mph on the highway at around ~2000rpm, it's super smooth and very quiet in the cabin (almost as quiet as stock). Matter of fact, I wouldn't want any lower gearing because it actually can feel a little doggy at that much overdrive if you start to go under 60mph, but it's great for cruising for sure. Now on the flip side is 1st gear. I'd much rather have a little longer gearing for first gear for traction reasons. A very short 1st gear always makes launching trickier for me as it's easier to spin, and it is over so quick it's hard to make it a clean run. Because within a second you're already hitting the rev limiter and having to shift. So for first gear I'd prefer a longer ratio. This is why I much prefer a 5spd. You have a similar overdrive ratio so highway cruising is similar, but for drag racing you have a little bit longer lower gears which I personally prefer. So for 1st gear, I'd prefer the longer gearing.
So Ford Performance makes a 3.15 and a 3.27 gearset. I went back n forth trying to decide which I wanted. I spoke with both my tuner Vlad as well as Grannas to get their input. Then I used this calculator to help me decide as well:
http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html
With my size tires (~28") and the 3.27 gears, at my current rev limit of 7500rpm, I should be able to run 4th gear out to ~150mph. I predict I'll be trapping right around 140mph, so I wanted to be sure at the very end of the run I wasn't going to run out of room and have to shift into 5th, and seems like I have plenty of headroom. Even if I add a bigger turbo later and trap higher, my new engine I will feel comfortable spinning to 8000rpm which shows I should be good until about ~160mph. So in the end after considering recommendations, my own experience with my current 3.266, and looking over the calculator, I finally just decided on the 3.27 gears. Boost by gear will hopefully keep my 1st gear wheel spin in check a bit. And at some point I'll probably get a set of dedicated drag wheels/tires which should make wheel spin even less of an issue. So 1st became a little less of a concern for me, and 3.27 just made more sense to me in my mind at least.
If it helps anyone in the future at all, here are the exact parts being used for my differential setup:
*NOTE* = The Ford Performance rebuild kits are what were recommended to me by my diff builder. As he was assembling it, he found that Explorer diff is unique to other IRS 8.8's. He's rebuilt 100's of these and never did an Explorer one before so ran into a couple very minor surprises. The inner bearing & cup from the rebuild kit did not fit, nor did the axle seals. He ended up having to purchase those separately from Ford. I'm leaving the links up because those are what I ordered, and 95% of the parts worked. But just a heads-up to anyone doing the same, it may be a better bet to get a rebuild kit specific to an Explorer off Rock Auto or something. Just passing on lesson learned from my end!
Used 2009 Ford Explorer carrier assembly (3.55 aluminum case):
https://www.lkqonline.com/2009/Ford/...rier-Assembly/
Grannas 8.8 Swap Kit w/ Level 5 (1000hp) Axles:
https://www.grannasracing.com/collec...r-toyota-supra
Ford Perormance Ring/Pinion Gear Set:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/f...8327/overview/
Ford Performance Ring/Pinion Install Kit:
Ford Performance Bearing/Seal Kit:
Wavetrac LSD (56.309.186WK):
http://www.wavetrac.net/application.htm
Last edited by Halon; 08-14-17 at 06:58 AM.
The following users liked this post:
LoveSCs (08-14-17)
08-07-17, 08:29 AM
#893
I totally understand with the lsd. I spent so much time looking also. The main difference is how most people use them are using v8's. The power delivery is going to be a bit different than our jz motors. We won't make as much tq instantly as the v8 so I'm thinking why you may have gotten the answers you did regarding the power level capability.
Also you know there is a os giken 31 spline axle lsd we can get for the 8.8 rear end. I'm starting with the frpp lsd as i got it for 160 shipped new so I figured I'd try. If or when I start road racing I'll most likely splurge for the os giken as the rx7 guys say its by far the best to go with.
I love the cheap gears we can get with the ford stuff if I had known I would have gone the 8.8. years ago. I'm doing the close ratio tremec with 4.10 gears should make a great combo.
Also you know there is a os giken 31 spline axle lsd we can get for the 8.8 rear end. I'm starting with the frpp lsd as i got it for 160 shipped new so I figured I'd try. If or when I start road racing I'll most likely splurge for the os giken as the rx7 guys say its by far the best to go with.
I love the cheap gears we can get with the ford stuff if I had known I would have gone the 8.8. years ago. I'm doing the close ratio tremec with 4.10 gears should make a great combo.
1) Eaton (Trutrac) on the phone flat out said none of their stuff is designed for this type of power. Now our local mustang shop (DB Performance) is where I dyno'd the other week, and so me and the owner talked about 8.8's for a bit. He uses Trutracs in all their 1000hp Coyote builds, so obviously they 'can' take that abuse. But hearing that from Eaton on the phone, and also not knowing how some of these 1000hp cars are using their cars (if they actually launch hard from a dig), that did stick in the back of my mind.
2) If this diff were to explode on me, I'll be buying a new one and at that point I'd be at the same cost of a Wavetrac which Wavetrac claims is stronger, and I'd be kicking myself for not just buying a Wavetrac in the first place. And the Trutrac is your typical torsen style LSD like most others. We all know how Supra people want to ditch the OEM Torsen for something stronger, and the dangers associated with the torsen breaking and locking up.
3) Wavetrac was by far the most knowledgeable people regarding this platform I talked to. Between Eaton, Grannas, DSS, and Wavetrac, these guys knew 8.8's inside and out better than all of them. They were polite and glad to help on the phone and over the course of SEVERAL emails, which I always prefer to do business with folks that actually appear to want my business. And they come with a lifetime warranty that they will honor even if you're racing as they say that's what these diffs were designed for, for racing, so they absolutely will warranty them. Only caveot being is if something else broke that in turn destroyed the diff at no fault of the diff. If the ring/pinion explode and take the LSD with it, they may not 100% warranty it. But from what I gather, they are very true in regards to warranty claims.
If wavetrac wasn't even around, I would have likely gone with either a tightly shimmed FRPP or the Trutrac. But in the end I just decided to pony up for what I feel is the baddest LSD out there for this diff. And I hopefully never have to crack it open or deal with anything differential related ever again.
That's my reasoning haha. Everyone may have their own/different reasoning for doing what they do, but that's basically how I cam to the conclusion I did. But I'd love to hear more feedback about people using various different LSD setups!
Last edited by Halon; 08-07-17 at 08:33 AM.
08-10-17, 11:22 AM
#895
Pretty basic fuel setup actually. Dual in tank 255HP's (parallel) that just feed the stock fuel lines. Fresh OE fuel filter. All stock fuel lines in place except for an appx 21" long -6AN dampener bypass feed line. Stock GE Fuel Rail. AEM FPR. FID1600 High-z injectors.
08-14-17, 06:02 AM
#897
Thanks for that explanation on the Ford diff's, and thanks for listing all of parts you are using in your kit. Will help a lot when I start looking at diff options. In past research, I figured I would just end up with a Kaaz super quiet LSD installed into my 3.26 pumpkin. I have also thought of the Ford 8.8 swap as well but just didn't know what all went into it and never really researched it much. So this will head me in the right direction.
Is there any reason why you didn't go with a supra Cusco or Kaaz in your pumpkin and retaining the stock axles and all?
Is there any reason why you didn't go with a supra Cusco or Kaaz in your pumpkin and retaining the stock axles and all?
08-14-17, 07:12 AM
#898
Just at this power now, I don't trust the 200mm diff and the OEM Torsen at the drag strip. The harshness from a good solid launch, and the on/off torque that comes with shifting a manual is taxing on the drive line. I could throw a better LSD on it, spend $1500 building it, and in the end up with a $1500 piece of trash if it grenades after an anti-lag launch at the strip. I'd rather just sell this rear drivetrain setup, since it's perfect for someone with say 400-600hp. It's been perfect for me this whole time, I've loved it it's been great to me. But I want to try and cut 1.XX 60ft times and I feel on a 700hp 6spd setup that's asking quit a bit from the 200mm diff. So I can hopefully sell it for a little bit of money, and I'll now have a much stronger rear-end arrangement that hopefully I never have to touch again, ever.
08-16-17, 02:49 PM
#899
Got the diff back today. All buttoned up with the new guts! Also my old helmet (Snell M2005) apparently expired this year per NHRA regulations. So with Proving Grounds coming up, I grabbed myself a new Snell M2015 helmet so I should be ready to rock!
Waiting on the kit from Grannas Racing at this point. Should be here soon so I'm going to start removing the current rear end and so I'm ready to throw the new setup in as soon as it gets here!
Waiting on the kit from Grannas Racing at this point. Should be here soon so I'm going to start removing the current rear end and so I'm ready to throw the new setup in as soon as it gets here!
