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Originally Posted by Halon
(Post 7520280)
Next year more than likely. I got married and built a house this year, so the car didn't get as much attention as I had planned. I've slowly been turning up the boost. At about 15psi now. Any more and the clutch won't hold. This winter I'm planning on going 6spd, 3.26/LSD rear, IS300 ignition, and hopefully build my FFIM. Then hopefully be ready to hit the dyno in the spring in hopes of some numbers in the 600's.
That's the plan at least, we'll see what real life has to say about that in the next few months... |
Originally Posted by megamax
(Post 7521030)
i thought a healthy engine had 180psi each cylinder. is it higher cause this is a n/a/ engine.
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Just throwing out a small update here.
Car his been running phenomenally this year. However It is now officially parked for the winter and will be undergoing some changes. Other than coming out for some test drives here and there, I'm going to keep it garaged until I'm done with everything I want to do. I'm tired of driving it around half done. So here's the plans: - IS300 COP ignition (purchased) - Build a front facing TT style intake manifold (materials purchased) - SC400 3.26 rear diff (purchased) - LSD for rear diff - 350z 6spd manual trans swap kit from SWAP1UZ (partially purchased, purchasing the rest in a month or so) - 350z 6spd CD009 vintage transmission - 350z Clutch/flywheel setup that can hold some decent power - OEM 98 side skirts and basic lip kit for front and rear bumpers - Paint - Wheels - Bring to DB Performance for tuning with 600+hp aspirations! That's about it. This may take longer than just this winter to complete, but next time it's out and about it should be a different animal. |
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350z trans huh? very interesting. y the 350z rout? cheaper than the v160 rout?
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After the swap is all done, it should be a litlle cheaper than going V160. However I like the idea that once the swap is done, replacement trans are a fraction of the cost ($600 vs. $3k) and are easy to find sitting in junk yards everywhere.
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SC430 rear diff from Aliga on here. Going to wire wheel off all the rust and coat it black.
http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/...m/IMAG1726.jpg Also seems like other than OEM, the only bushing options are solid ones, but I want this thing to still feel somewhat like a Lexus so no thanks. So we are making our own poly bushings for the diff ears. Depending on how that goes, we may also make poly bushings for the entire rear subframe as well. Will probably make them in 80A hardness, although me personally I'd rather have something closer to the 65A range. Cleaned up the front calipers with some Rustoleum. Before and after shots http://mitsustyle.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1346986129 http://mitsustyle.com/forums/attachm...4&d=1346986143 http://mitsustyle.com/forums/attachm...5&d=1346986150 |
Brandon, you're making some serious progress brother! Nice job with the TT caliper clean up!
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Thanks :) things happen a little slower now that I'm married, but I keep just slowing buying piece after piece, helps it all fly under the radar a little better !!
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Originally Posted by Halon
(Post 7564571)
Thanks :) things happen a little slower now that I'm married, but I keep just slowing buying piece after piece, helps it all fly under the radar a little better !!
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Managed to squeeze in about 2hrs of work on her yesterday. Result is the rear subframe sitting on the floor :)
http://www.dsmstyle.com/photopost/data/656/IMAG1758.jpg http://www.dsmstyle.com/photopost/data/656/IMAG1757.jpg |
Nice build. Keep it up.
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Originally Posted by Halon
(Post 5821438)
I just bought the car. The individual I bought it from did the brake swap. And you can feel the shuddering in the pedal/wheel when you apply heavy brake pressure. 99.9% sure the rotors are warped. No biggie.
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Little bit more done today. Got all connections/etc. disconnected so the rear subframe is completely out. Driveshaft removed. Mid portion of exhaust removed. Rear ABS sensor wiring removed (For good). Muffler heat shields removed. Just lots of little misc crap removed basically.
With the underside fairly exposed at this point, I was actually pleasantly surprised by how little rust there was considering this thing has over 160k miles. Mainly just in spots where the rusty fasteners were, are little spots of rust. However I was inspired by someone elses project where they cleaned up the underside of their car. I don't have the skills or patience to go to they level they didl, but still, makes me want to get the underside of the car looking nice too. So I will be trying to take my time and replace anything rusty (fasteners, clamps, lines, etc). Coat things like control arms, subframe, diff, etc so they look like new again. Replacing bushings with poly ones where it matters, and probably just OEM in some spots to keep it feeling like a Lexus. And may consider sanding and putting some sort of undercarriage coating, but not sure yet if I'll take it to that level. Here's how I left it tonight, as well as some shots of the underside of the car showing the small areas of rust around fasteners. http://mitsustyle.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1352430387 http://mitsustyle.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1352430387 http://mitsustyle.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1352430387 http://mitsustyle.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1352430387 |
Man, I can't believe that I have never read this thread before now. This is some good stuff for a N/A build, I must say. Anytime thre is a build, things come up and we come together on here to help figure things out. Glad you have continuing your work on her and getting it done correctly. Can you supply more pictures of the hangar rack for the fuel hanger on using two pumps? I might be in the progress of doing this but using 2 TT pumps. Trying to get some ideas. Your build looks great and now I will be following this till it is completed. If 600 is your goal the 350 z tranny should do the trick. If not go R154!
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