hey ryan car looks good ....hope you had luck trying to fix that oil pan. by the way thanks for the door moldings. im still working on mine but sent the block to the machine shop to get bored for the new pistons and rods that are going in.

 

Ryan,

Great to see how well the car is coming together. Can't wait to see it it Texas Looks like you are doing this build hardcore - loving it

Keep us posted man,
Jonny

 

Ryan,

I went through all 71 pages of this thread, i can't wait to see your car at the V8 shootout.

 

Hey sc5spd: thanks, yeah, your project is a hot one! You're welcome on the door moldings. I am fixing that oil pan now, infact I decided to trash the Y Block because it may be in the way of the downpipe. I am welding new, much thicker walled tubes into to front of the oil pan, and in the correct place.

Jonny, thanks. I look forward to seeing your car as well. We should all have a bunch of fun.

hass, thanks, I hope it meets up to the hype...I am certainly working hard to make it the "Ultimate Driving Machine"...

Ryan

 

Gang, while I am waiting for the redo on the oil pan to be completed, I am working on a few detail items...Here is 1 small example, but an important one. This is a clear example of how some shops cut corners when they do work for you, even though you specify the right types of parts, a shop that is owned and operated by people that do not care to put out the quality work that they have been paid to perform, and instead cut corners in order to save a few bucks...One more reason why I will never let the previous shop touch my car again, nor can I in good conscience, recommend that shop for anything...I have had too many issues that I have had to go back and redo completely, many of which the shop owner totally denies culpability.

The BS Water supply T flare that XB installed to feed water to my turbos, Cost, I do not know, perhaps a couple of dollars:


The T flare I am replacing it with...Cost to me, $17.00:


Again, this is just one of many examples of poor quality work, and a total lack of commitment to excellence, even though I paid this shop many thousands of dollars in cash...

Finding a good shop with a commitment to excellence is worth its weight in gold...

Ryan

 

Your attention to detail is just awesome!

 

Hey Ryan, I can't tell what size the lines are in the pictures, but if your talking about turbo oil drain/return lines, they need to be a 1/2 inch ID (inside diameter) minimum. By looking at the NOS label, I'm assuming they are not.
If your gonna "Y" them together into 1 drain you probably need a 3/4 or 1 inch ID after the "Y"
If you don't, the oil will not be able to drain from the turbos quick enough, and cause the oil to back up in the turbo, and blow out the exhaust.
Turbos are not sealed tight by a seal. the temp, and RPM would destroy any rubber seal. instead it's simply a steal ring, kinna like how a piston ring is the seal in the cylinder. If the oil backs up, it will seep past the seal, and blow oil (Blue smoke) out the exhaust.

Now if your talking about the supply, your probably fine.
Just my $0.02

 

Hey Bob:

I am so glad to see you posting up again...Thanks for your thoughts, I appreciate it. Yeah, I agree with you totally. In fact, after looking at that solution some more, I decided not to go that route due to the smalll size of the swivel. I posted up on Supraforums a couple of days ago that I was waiting on the re-weld of the oil pan, but never got around to posting this change on CL. I had two new larger and thicker walled tubes welded in place onto the upper oil pan. We carefully measured and checked to confirm clearances both before and after the re-weld. Got the pan back and test fitted it yesterday...all clear!!! Now it has to be re-polished and re-coated again. I returned the Y block and swivel and got the AN T flare for the water supply lines that I posted up a pic of in a previous thread...

Feel free to post up your suggestions anytime Bob, your expert opinions are valued here...

Ryan

 

Here is the front, upper Water Bridge...It has been chromed, along with the two engine hoist hooks. I wasn't going to mod these, but they did not look well enough to fit with the rest of the engine, so I did. I also did this due to a change I am making to the front of the engine, and I will not be covering the bridge with the plastic covering that was there....Test fitted that anodized T Flare on top of it, and it looks very good... No *** looking stuff now...

I should have the re-welded upper oil pan back tomorrow afternoon, along with the oil filter bracket, both polished and clear powder-coated....

Water bridge:


Assembling this motor, installing the tranny and the rest of the drive train, and sending this car to Tampa...

Ryan

Ryan

 

I tapped the whole, and threaded the anodized pipe and T Flare into the top of the bridge. Unfortunately, the upper oil pan was not completed yesterday, so it will not be ready until Monday. I am working on the rear BBK tomorrow, and the Supra TT sway bars.I should have the engine back in the car next week sometime...I wheeled the motor out into the late afternoon sun to take a few pics...













Ryan

 

Ryan, wandered if you have any concerns about the stock/ used harmonic balancer? I here they have some seperation failures,. I have checked mine, and it is very tight with 127,000.

 

Mine is in as good a shape as new...I have not heard of this problem...Where did you here this about the 1UZ Harmonic Balancer....

Ryan

 

I have heard of it happening on the 1JZ motors but never on a 1UZ.

 

I guess the test will be when the rubber meets the road....

Ryan

 

Ryan,

Your the man. Seriously... THE MAN