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The SC drives now with much more feedback! but i hear sometimes the springs... not so funny, but the agility is much better as before and the rear does at drifting that was he have to do i can feel every move from rear clear and not as before with a rubber between my *** and the street
Next step was to install the Spec Stage 3+ disc and the new bearing. To remove the box is done in 1 1/2 hour, not difficult alone with a engine lift.
without bearing
old Stage 3 disc
on the removed gearbox looked i for a shifter problem, he had to much play left/right...
But the new bearing makes problems, i can not release the clutch complete. several times the lines bleedes, not better, clutch pedal linkage new adjusted, not better. Solution = change back to the old bearing! After chaning back, bleeding the lines, adjust the linkage from the clutch pedal, feels the clutch grear for 90%. 100% street suitable, no rub, but if its needed a great bit for the track. Only on high rpm´s its difficult to shift the gears, maybe is air in the system or i i need more adjusting the linkage. but for normal driving its no problem and feels much more now as a Lexus as a racecar.
Between comes my new shift ****. 450g weight, 2" diameter, great
it was time to install new tyres. i bought Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 3 great tire, very soft, not loud, ideal for long trips, but not so direct in curves than the old Falken FK 452, but all over much better to drive.
The new shift **** is installed, but the gap between the gear gaiter and the **** is ugly. I bought a spacer for Mustangs, i think, and modified this on my small lathe.
After a long trip does the TRD diff some bad vibrations. driving over 80mp/h was not really possible, not funny. trd diff complete removed and my old Supra Torsen with the same gear ratio 4,08 installed. The SC drives now easer, but cornering makes less fun. The SC needs now on long trips ca 3 litre less fuel of 100km. The TRD brakes the car very much.
some pictures from the meetings
The aztec fire red IS200 supercharged is the car from a good friend
In the winter month, i will to restore my Volk wheels. my idea is to paint the wheels in BBS Gold and polish the dish like this here:
From UK i bought a stainless steel water inlet to change with the plastic piece
Also i bought new bearings and seals for my TRD diff to install this in the little bit longer oem diff housing (3.92) but before, i will clean it and maybe rebuild it. its very funny to drive, but for long trips is maybe a 1.5 way diff or only the torsen for drifting its ideal, but i do this maybe 2 times in the year on a small track, but its so funny on open road not easy to find the right choice.
Now starts the winter time here in austria and the SC goes sleep with the stock 16" wheels. Time to buy parts for next year
Right on man! I know how it is with SC400 manuals its alot of testing and getting the right setup doing things over and over haha but it makes for some of the fun, I have one im working on now so definitely following your thread
Good luck with yours looks like your doing all the right stuff
The Titan Motorsport swaybars now installed, but the space to the oilfilter is not much. i bought a shorter oilfilter to have enough space and changed the oil complete. The SC feels more better as before. i choosed the setting like the TRD swaybars. The rear does not more caving in corners ( i hope you anderstand what i mean). i like that.
i changed the thermostat housing to a stainless steel from UK. fits perfect!
I bought cheap a seat of front brake calipers with neralry new Stoptech Discs and Race pads. installing was easy, on the road, i can feel the difference cery good. more bite.
4 weeks ago, i brought my Volks to repaint in gold matt and polish the flange. tomorrow will i fit the new Volk Racing Stickers on the spokes and will start to paint wine-red (RAL3005) my brake calipers
The Titan Motorsport swaybars now installed, but the space to the oilfilter is not much. i bought a shorter oilfilter to have enough space and changed the oil complete. The SC feels more better as before. i choosed the setting like the TRD swaybars. The rear does not more caving in corners ( i hope you anderstand what i mean). i like that.
Did you have to shave the corners off the front sway bar brackets in order for the mounts to sit flush? I installed a set of titan sway bars on my car recently, and I noticed the front brackets were too large for the oem mount.
no, i bought the set sway bar used, the brackets fits without problems, maybe that the pre owner have done this to fit in his car. But on my pictures in can not see any modified corners, the are all slanted on the brackets and all sides with green paint.
no, i bought the set sway bar used, the brackets fits without problems, maybe that the pre owner have done this to fit in his car. But on my pictures in can not see any modified corners, the are all slanted on the brackets and all sides with green paint.
DId you mount it directly on to the chassis or into the black mount? My mounts were like yours where the corners were angled (mine are gold instead of green). When I lined it up with my car, I noticed that the brackets would get bent if I tightened the bolts down all the way. If one corner fit in to the bracket, then another would stick out. I thought it was weird, so I asked if you experienced the same thing.
i mount it directly in the original brackets on the chassis. Fits good but it was very tight in the bracket. maybe modified the preowner the mounts from the swaybars to fit on his Supra. To screw the bolts was not difficult, the holes are correct.
11-06-16, 12:04 PM
i can feel every move from rear clear and not as before with a rubber between my *** and the street 
