My ´97 SC400
#301
Hy!
In germany, is no problem to go lower, the have no minimum. the experts in Austria have no eggs to say, yes, he can drive with 6cm space... no no.. the rule say minium 11cm or with maxium axle load 8cm. .we have also no loud exhausts, only 1dB louder as in the papers. my SC have 81dB official
In germany, is no problem to go lower, the have no minimum. the experts in Austria have no eggs to say, yes, he can drive with 6cm space... no no.. the rule say minium 11cm or with maxium axle load 8cm. .we have also no loud exhausts, only 1dB louder as in the papers. my SC have 81dB official
#303
Hi!
My car is now legal! but it was only for 1 hour Silencer from the midpipe removed and Vertex Clear Side Marker installed
The next step is my MT swap
build the clutch pedal assembly
done!
next step -> install!
enough place to work
insulation cutted to fit better the assembly
outside
drill the holes, start!
bigger holes
My car is now legal! but it was only for 1 hour Silencer from the midpipe removed and Vertex Clear Side Marker installed
The next step is my MT swap
build the clutch pedal assembly
done!
next step -> install!
enough place to work
insulation cutted to fit better the assembly
outside
drill the holes, start!
bigger holes
#305
brake pedal swap
installed!
is not easy, but ok, i had needed around 3 hours for all.
only the steering wheel ecu needs a new place under the dashboard. the original bracket have no space more with the clutch assembly.
screw lower position
screw upper position (under the dashboard)
finish!
installed!
is not easy, but ok, i had needed around 3 hours for all.
only the steering wheel ecu needs a new place under the dashboard. the original bracket have no space more with the clutch assembly.
screw lower position
screw upper position (under the dashboard)
finish!
#307
next is install all this with a Spec stage 3 clutch and a NST Short Shifter. now, i have a 4.08 diff with a TT LSD installed, but i change this to a 3,76 in a TT housing with a TRD 2-Way LSD all parts here, i waiting of the correct spacer for the pinion gear, is this ok, i will calibrate the LSD correct.
#309
HY!
update
Time to start the swap on my car
Removed exhaust, driveshaft, transmission,...
bellhouse srews remove
shifter and center console removed
mh... no flange for the MT front driveshaft...
Daily with MT
flex plate and wires, don´t forget the kickdown cable to remove from the throttle body!
AT vs MT tranny
all cables up to the engine room, only the for the speed sensor is here
Flywheel from Bolt Perfomance installed, 9kg steel, no Spacer from the flexplate!!
pilot bearing installed, around 15mm put in the crankshaft (1cm on backward from the bearing, 8mm bearing itself)
centering pin and Spec Stage 3 Clutch
update
Time to start the swap on my car
Removed exhaust, driveshaft, transmission,...
bellhouse srews remove
shifter and center console removed
mh... no flange for the MT front driveshaft...
Daily with MT
flex plate and wires, don´t forget the kickdown cable to remove from the throttle body!
AT vs MT tranny
all cables up to the engine room, only the for the speed sensor is here
Flywheel from Bolt Perfomance installed, 9kg steel, no Spacer from the flexplate!!
pilot bearing installed, around 15mm put in the crankshaft (1cm on backward from the bearing, 8mm bearing itself)
centering pin and Spec Stage 3 Clutch
Last edited by Boergy; 09-05-14 at 02:34 PM.
#310
here was the first failure from my car, the pressure plate was over 1 year in my garage, like new, but little bit rusty on the bolts for the centering plates, ands my car shakes after starting, tranny removed, failure found, rusty bolts, pressure plate not centerd
FAIL:
one side
opposite
i used rust dissolver and a rubber hammer to fix the problem
so.. next "normal" step
tranny installed, clutch lines and wires in the engine room
hello tripod! but the tripod had contact with the tunnel... ok.. cut the metal and make a own tunnel cover, the original metal is not more available
MY Friend Robert makes me this stainless steel plate
a look from the bottom
FAIL:
one side
opposite
i used rust dissolver and a rubber hammer to fix the problem
so.. next "normal" step
tranny installed, clutch lines and wires in the engine room
hello tripod! but the tripod had contact with the tunnel... ok.. cut the metal and make a own tunnel cover, the original metal is not more available
MY Friend Robert makes me this stainless steel plate
a look from the bottom
Last edited by Boergy; 09-05-14 at 02:52 PM.
The following users liked this post:
jadu (07-17-17)
#311
tunnel is ready to use
next step, modify the drive shaft, my first idea was, to use the oem SC400 and weld on the front part from the MT, is possible, but not good, the front part from the SC400 is sliding, not good, driveable, but not good. i orderd a used front part from a supra and from UKa soarer rear part.
clutch line bleeding, its not difficult, with a good vacuum pump is this in 5 minutes done
driveshaft installed for first testdrive
its ok for a test, but i changed to the right combination of drivehsafts.
Shifter and boot installed
original shifter from W58 from supra ( the tripod is a 1/2" longer as this from the SC300) the ball sits low in the gear geater, and on 2-4-R is very close to the frame
Supra TT Diff (3.77) with TRD 2-Way LSD ready for install
Diff is installed, next step, shortshifter from NST modification with the oem shifter to have the shifter in the center of the console, around 2cm higher for the best position to shift.
i changed back from the alloy bushings in the tripod to the original rubber bearings, i think, the tranny makes for me to much sound, but my clutch bearing makes also a noise, its maybe not perfect adjusted, but the clutch works fine!
Supra driveshaft arrived, but rear part to short
next step, modify the drive shaft, my first idea was, to use the oem SC400 and weld on the front part from the MT, is possible, but not good, the front part from the SC400 is sliding, not good, driveable, but not good. i orderd a used front part from a supra and from UKa soarer rear part.
clutch line bleeding, its not difficult, with a good vacuum pump is this in 5 minutes done
driveshaft installed for first testdrive
its ok for a test, but i changed to the right combination of drivehsafts.
Shifter and boot installed
original shifter from W58 from supra ( the tripod is a 1/2" longer as this from the SC300) the ball sits low in the gear geater, and on 2-4-R is very close to the frame
Supra TT Diff (3.77) with TRD 2-Way LSD ready for install
Diff is installed, next step, shortshifter from NST modification with the oem shifter to have the shifter in the center of the console, around 2cm higher for the best position to shift.
i changed back from the alloy bushings in the tripod to the original rubber bearings, i think, the tranny makes for me to much sound, but my clutch bearing makes also a noise, its maybe not perfect adjusted, but the clutch works fine!
Supra driveshaft arrived, but rear part to short
#312
yeah! right position of the shifter!
fixing the shift boot
bad picture, i used 5-7mm thick piece from am fuel hose (10mm) cutted this and used as centerpiece between shifter and boot.
works perfect!
on the ECU, i cutted the cable for R, to connect this to the yellow cable from the shifter switch with D (for the cruise control) and P for starting. This is the only cable to cut on the ECU, its a blue one.
permanent Sport Modus (bulb in the cluster removed)
wires from the shifter switch connected, the 2 seperate red lines, are the wires to the reverse light switch on the tranny
yellow box connected on the orange connector from the gauge cluster, all cables here (plus, minus, signal) to install it easy
little chaos
position for the yellow box
okey.. all driveshafts arrived! ready for puzzle
The flange on the TT Diff was the big one for the Supra TT, but i need the small one for the SC/Supra NA) change on the car, and the flange tightened with 140Nm (toyota manual) ok!
installed, but in the winter, i will rebalance the complete shaft, i have minimal low frequency vibration on over 140km/h (you can here it later in my video)
bellhouse with maintenance hole for the clutch bearing to degrease this
fixing the shift boot
bad picture, i used 5-7mm thick piece from am fuel hose (10mm) cutted this and used as centerpiece between shifter and boot.
works perfect!
on the ECU, i cutted the cable for R, to connect this to the yellow cable from the shifter switch with D (for the cruise control) and P for starting. This is the only cable to cut on the ECU, its a blue one.
permanent Sport Modus (bulb in the cluster removed)
wires from the shifter switch connected, the 2 seperate red lines, are the wires to the reverse light switch on the tranny
yellow box connected on the orange connector from the gauge cluster, all cables here (plus, minus, signal) to install it easy
little chaos
position for the yellow box
okey.. all driveshafts arrived! ready for puzzle
The flange on the TT Diff was the big one for the Supra TT, but i need the small one for the SC/Supra NA) change on the car, and the flange tightened with 140Nm (toyota manual) ok!
installed, but in the winter, i will rebalance the complete shaft, i have minimal low frequency vibration on over 140km/h (you can here it later in my video)
bellhouse with maintenance hole for the clutch bearing to degrease this
#313
hole closed with rubber
today was my first longer testdrive with the car, the speedo was 8km/h to slow (used GPS to check), i chose 10% on the yellow box and its now ok!
first video
next step is to install the resistors to simulate the transmission, to have no CEL more
greets
Tom
The following users liked this post:
dadswrld (08-31-17)
#314
Wow what a fantastic writeup. Great work! WIll definitely be referring to this when I dive into this on my '99..
..by the way, how does the car feel? Is it noticably faster?
..by the way, how does the car feel? Is it noticably faster?
Last edited by scENFORCER; 09-05-14 at 09:31 PM.
#315
hy!
thanks
the car feels now much more sporty as before, a complete new character, no cruise car more, you can cruise, if you want, no problem, without the rubber band feeling from the AT. The engine have a new sound with the MT, you feel each millimeter from the gas pedal on power, no waiting, the best upgrade i have done. 2-3 little things still to do ( drive shaft balance, resistor to simulate the AT, clutch pedal adjustment, clutch bearing sound) and its finished.
yes, the car is faster, you can see on the video, now 5 gears, before 3+OD and a torque converter, big difference, only, i have to learn to use the clutch pedal near 3 years my both cars (SC and Daily) are AT´s
greets
Tom
thanks
the car feels now much more sporty as before, a complete new character, no cruise car more, you can cruise, if you want, no problem, without the rubber band feeling from the AT. The engine have a new sound with the MT, you feel each millimeter from the gas pedal on power, no waiting, the best upgrade i have done. 2-3 little things still to do ( drive shaft balance, resistor to simulate the AT, clutch pedal adjustment, clutch bearing sound) and its finished.
yes, the car is faster, you can see on the video, now 5 gears, before 3+OD and a torque converter, big difference, only, i have to learn to use the clutch pedal near 3 years my both cars (SC and Daily) are AT´s
greets
Tom
Last edited by Boergy; 09-05-14 at 11:51 PM.