maarp

I've never done a clay bar cleaning before. I've read about it, and it seems relatively easy. However...

1. I've heard it's a waste of time
2. I've read that clay is the best thing ever, all you need afterwards is a simple coat of wax
3. I've read that you need to have a polisher after you clay, as it first dulls the finish
4. I've read that clay is so 90's and there are better options now, such as Clayzilla

Any tips from the resident experts before this dummy wrecks his paint?

Jabberwock

Clay bar works great. I clay bar my car at maybe 3-4 year intervals, but wax it twice a year. Buy one of the national brand (mothers/meguirers/etc) clay bar kits available in most Walmart stores - usually comes with two small bars and some spray lubricant included.

1. Wash very well with quality car wash soap, rinse super thoroughly, and dry car. Make sure there is no dust or grit on the car.
2. First use rubbing compound for any scuffs that require it, then use polish on swirls, etc.
3. Then working a 2 ft square at a time - spray clay bar lubricant over the surface wetting thoroughly, then gently wipe the wet paint surface with the clay bar, turn and knead clay bar frequently to expose fresh clay. If clay bar picks up any kind of grit remove it from bar or replace with new bar. Embedded grit in the clay bar will severely scratch your paint. If you drop the clay bar, it will have serious grit in it, And if you use it, it will scratch the (^%*)& out of your paint. If you drop the clay bar, throw it away.
4. Once you have completed a section, wipe clean with a microfiber towel, and inspect. The surface should be super smooth - like glass. If not super smooth, wet the surface and repeat clay bar. Make sure you have plenty of clean microfiber towels.
5. After completing all sections the entire paint surface should be super smooth - like glass, then apply a high quality sealant/ wax of your choice immediately.

iolmaster

iTrader: (1)

I'm not sure where you heard that clay dulls the finish. That is not true. The first time I clayed a car I was amazed at the grit it picked up. I also only clay about 2-3 year intervals. In my opinion it is one of the best kept secrets around about getting a mirror finish.

Freds430

If you keep your car waxed regularly than you only need to clay bar every two years. What it does is super clean the finish which helps you wax adhere to the paint surface. I helped my neighbor do his wife's Honda Odyssey. At the time was three years old and never been clay barred. It was just washed and we started. I called her out to the garage to see why to clay bar. The clay bar lubricant was turning light brown. She asked what that was and I said dirt. She stated but I just washed it. Keep rubbing until the surface is smooth. Takes no more than 30 minutes to do a car. Less if you have a helper following you with a drying rag. When finished the car already is shining.

maarp

My SC was just purchased from Florida, where it was kept in immaculate condition by the PO. However, I think he was using mostly spray-on wax instead of a decent carnuba. I waxed it when I got it home, and it just didn't feel like a freshly waxed car. Not rough necessarily, but not that "slippery" feeling you expect. And, as I ran my hand lightly over the hood, I could almost feel small particles stuck there. Hence my plan to clay bar the car.

Thanks Jabberwock and Fred - I was hoping that it wasn't going to entail anything other than a good wax job when complete.

iolmaster - In my research, I have found several mentions that a polishing is needed after a clay application. Not everywhere I looked, but enough to make me ask the question.

Thanks all. I bought a Mother's clay kit, and will have at it soon.

EJC

I clay by hand
Make sure you're in the shade so the surface doesn't get too hot, or you'll leave clay residue behind.
Anyone who doesn't believe that works:
1- Look at the clay after you do a patch. you'll be amazed at what you'll see came off.
2- Feel the paint before and then again after.

Here's my 2010 IS-F it's clayed once a year followed by Chemical Guys White Light, Jet Seal, Pete's 53 wax


I just picked up this 2010 Lincoln MKX - 130Kmiles - last week. I'm sure it was never clayed.
I spent Saturday cleaning it up. Clay, MeGuiar's #9 swirl remover, Chemical Guys White light, Jet Seal, MeGuiar's NxT2 wax
Attachment 504416

maarp

Outstanding results on the Lincoln - how did it look before the clay? Do you have before and after pics? Or is it more of a texture thing? My green comes up beautifully from the wax, but it just doesn't feel right.

UDel

Claying is not a waste of time
In most cases you will need to polish after claying, claying gets stuck on grit and dirt off but it also creates scratches and swirls and they are much more visible on dark cars.
Claying is not 90's, it is relevant to this day, I never heard or tried Clayzilla.

Tips are mainly follow the directions and don't expect it to be a quick process, it takes time. If you keep your finish waxed and clean and wash every week you will cut down on how much you need to clay your car.

EJC

I should have taken before pics.
The dealer did a decent job for delivery, but they rush it.
The difference was noticeable when I was finished
This is a combination of looks and texture.
The clay picked up a lot of embedded dirt from the paint. There was no missing the color change in the clay
The MeGuiar's #9 is a MILD compound for the clear coat paint correction. I now usually use this only on local limited areas that need correction because it is abasive to the clear coat. I used it on the Lincoln because I doubted that it was ever done before and I wanted the surface as smooth as possible.
The Chemical Guy's products are supposed to be additive, so the White lite and Jet Seal seal the paint and fill surface defects.
And then the wax just protects it all.

You can see why I love this stuff from the pictures

maarp

Conflicting information - exactly why I decided to ask the question. So which is it? Dulls the finish or doesn't?

GunnyFitz

Unsure if anyone here mentioned it already, but there are two other VERY reputable products that accomplish the decontamination of your paint. I've used countless Clay Bars and seriously look forward to these:

Nanoskin Kit
-Has a medium and fine grade Clay Sponge type device to use which fits in the hand MUCH better than regular Clay. It also contains several other helpful products in this kit to help rid your car of imperfections!

Optimum Clay Towel
-Used with the famous Optimum ONR and their Spray Wax, you literally Wash, Clay, and Wax you car ALL at the same time! There are some very good videos on the process on YouTube.

Not sure where you do all your product shopping but AutoGeek has some seriously good discounts sent out weekly (Just got 30% off all the above) so I use them monthly!
Also, The Rag Company cannot be beat for ANY Microfiber Towel. Hands down best site for these!

Despite Claying being a tedious process, the payoffs are HUGE prior to doing your Sealant & Waxing (Huge Pinnacle Fan) Cant wait to try the medium grade Nanoskin on my 05 Dodge Ram, and their fine grade on my wifes RX350 too. Make it easier on yourselves and look into these products I shared above. Worth every cent!

UDel

Claying does not dull the finish, you have to polish it afterward from scratches and swirls that normally results from claying, scratches and swirls don't really dull the finish, they are unsightly and take away from the beauty of a clean glossy finish.

jfelbab

My $0.02 on claying

Baggie test. This is the simplest way to determine if you need to clay. After washing and drying your car, slip a baggie over your hand and gently draw your fingertips across the paint. If there are bonded contaminants on the paint you will feel it and hear it as the baggie catches on them. If there are none, the baggie will slide smoothly across the paint.

Clay tips:
• Only clay cool paint in the shade.
• Cut the supplied clay bar in two and put the unused piece in a baggie to keep it clean. If/when you drop the piece of clay you are using, throw it out and grab the unused piece.
• As the clay becomes soiled, fold and kneed it back into a pad to expose fresh clay.
• Clay small sections at a time and wipe dry. Feel the clayed area to determine the paint is now glass-smooth before moving on.
• Use plenty of quick detailer spray to keep the paint and clay well lubricated.
• The clay should glide over the paint so don't use heavy pressure.
• Use gentle back and forth strokes to sheer off and remove any bonded contaminants.
• Take your time and be gentle but thorough.

Observations: You cannot achieve the highest possible gloss if the paint is not perfectly smooth. Any contaminants will lessen the gloss and will also be the weakest areas where your wax or sealant will fail first. Clayed paint stays protected longer as the wax/sealant applied will have fewer weak points.

Finally, refreshing the wax or sealant regularly will stop or slow contaminants from bonding to the paint going forward. I use a spray sealant (UQW/D156) after my regular washing to maintain the slickness of the paint. Even new cars can often benefit from claying. A baggie test will show you if you need to clay

jrmckinley

Do you have to wax after doing the clay bar? If yes, does it have to be immediate (same day)? What would be the risk to not waxing? I just bought a Speed Clay 2.0 and was planning on doing a hand wash followed by using that on my hood this weekend. But my plans will change if I have to wax the car afterwards....!

EJC

Clay will remove everything.
You will need to wax afterward