6od

As the title states, I'm new to this proper business of car washing. I found this thread in my research for buying a new (read: used) car and now having done so, I find myself coming back for everything else. I first started to compile a list of things to buy so I could give my car a thorough wash/clay/wax… but then I started to read about polishing and I cut myself off. I know I could buy the things needed to do these things myself, but I already have a hobby (records) that takes up my spare $$$ and time.

I've since decided that I'm just gonna pay someone else to do a real good job like, once or maybe twice a year - and I’ll do the rest. I'm either gonna have a full paint correction with coating done relatively soon, or just pay for a good detail/polish/wax sooner and get the correction/coating later, maybe in 6 months (seeing as it's upwards of $1k).

Here’s what I already have so far:
EXTERIOR:

• Meguiar’s Gold Class Shampoo
• Gilmour Cleaning Sprayer Foamaster II Multi-ratio Spray Gun (thank you, Amazon Lightning deal)
• Chemical Guys wash mitt
• Meguiar’s Supreme Shine Microfiber towels (2x 3-packs)
• Grit guard (just one, but another one is on the way)

INTERIOR:

• Meguiar’s Quik Interior Detailer Cleaner
• Aerospace Protectant 303 Matte
• Stoner Invisible Glass aerosol

I already have 2 Home Depot buckets.

I’m using my portable Dewalt wet/dry vac to vacuum the interior, and have been using the blower mode to get water out of the crevices/emblems when washing so far, and drying with microfibers (admittedly, not super high quality ones, but I blow most the water off first).
I have no idea if the Meg’s Gold Class is a good wash soap to use with the Gilmour - so if there’s one that’s better, please let me know. I got the Meg’s before I got the Foammaster. I was not going to get a foam gun initially but the lightning deal happened and that was that. I also get a lot of bee pollen on my car and the occasional bird bomb so I think it’ll help.

However, I am lost when it comes to the spray wax/detail sprays that people use when drying a vehicle. If any guidance can be provided on that front, it would be greatly appreciated. In the meantime - what else do I need? I’m not totally thrilled on the waterless wash method due to the amount of dust and everything my car accumulates in just 5 days, let alone a week. It is parked outside 24/7 - at home in direct sun from sunrise to sunset (no shade at any point in time, it’s remarkable), and at work, also in direct sun, unless I park under the one tree with all the birds (lose/lose).

Here’s what I’m thinking of buying & my associated questions:

• ONR Wash & Shine… somehow the internet convinced me I need this - DO I?
• Collinite 845 Insulator Wax… I like the water beading capabilities and the fact that this can (from what I’ve read) easily be applied by hand. I know to thin it by placing the bottle in a bowl of hot water and shaking the crap out of it prior to use. Any recommendations on foam pads are welcome.
• Pinnacle Crystal Mist OR Blackfire Wet Diamond Paint Sealant… Now… I know that the Collinite 845 is a LSP (look at me, learning an abbreviation!) but can these be layered for extra protection? I’m really aiming for UV protection & ease of use, plus anything that will make future washes easier.

Sorry for the super long post. I’ve been lurking here and allll over the Detailed Image site, and after trying every type of boolean search I can to come to a conclusion but I have suffered from serious information overload. Between car washing and then trying to figure out what tires and brake pads to get - it’s a bit overwhelming. I appreciate everyone who posts here - I’m sure my car’s paint will appreciate it, too!!

P.S. Anyone know where I can get a touch up bottle of Smokey Granite Mica?

6od

k20trick

iTrader: (3)

Hey 6od, where in la are you located? I can help you assess your car for free. I agree the industry is filled with information overload, but once you understand the process it becomes second nature to you, everything else is fairly simple there are plenty of youtube videos, books from mike Phillips, ig, etc... even free detailing classes from Meguiars.

We all had to start somewhere, I know I started out by buying a bunch of stuff thinking it would make me better but now I choose to spend the money wisely such as buying good stuff and paying more where it matters and using stuff that works for the rest. Its not really the products you use that make you good, it's really how you use it that makes you good.

Just be aware that correction plus coatings doesnt solve issues if the owners dont know how to maintain it properly or cant pay someone to maintain it properly for them, it will be back to square one in no time. Many people also buy dual buckets thinking it will solve problems but the way they use it ruins the whole function behind it. Ive washed my car probably twice within the past year with a hose and the rest I use the rinse less method, its perfectly safe granted you use it the right way.

I am always in Los Angeles and I also check out many cars, if your available for 10 mins we can meet up actually it is Toyota Fest if your into shows.

Congrats on the purchase btw that is a great color.

6od

k20trick

iTrader: (3)

Yes it saves a tremendous amount of time and effort, but ideally if I could afford a nice wash bay setup and space, that would be my perfect setup but in a busy world time rinse less method rocks as it saves a lot of time. Yes, microfibers in bucket (always clean), onr, and distilled water. I spray the panel im working on rigorously but people do it without its really up to you. Best way to remove bird bombs is really through high pressure water if you can.

Really you should use a nice clay bar, cleaner wax to help brighten up the paint and use spray wax. Not many people can even maintain that.

If your looking to blow dry your car a leaf blower or something like master blaster works best those wet/dry vacs simply do no push enough power.

Meet in Long Beach this Saturday.

This combo works every thing time for most of the daily drivers:

And the flyer to Toyota fest

6od

Luckily for me I have a hose right next to my car and it's outdoors. I could see doing the rinse less method to save time, but for me I either have time to wash a car - or I have absolutely no time.

Considering I plan on having someone else do a full detail, with polishing and everything - how long after that should claying be done? Whether I get a coating sooner than later is one thing, but it'll have some kind of sealant in the meantime. And after claying, then just a sealant needs to be applied, correct?

Also, for spray waxes that are used during drying - can you use any spray wax?

k20trick

iTrader: (3)

I have a hose and a high pressure washer with foam gun as well, other than for a foam party show or unless the car really needs it I grab the rinsless method each time, imo I think its easier not to screw up with this method as your using a clean fresh microfiber each panel whereas I seen many people using dual buckets with one wash mitt and no matter how many time s you dunk it into the 2nd bucket, it still has some kind of matted on dirt on it that your dragging across the paint, then you have to consider the horrible minerals in la water you only have so much time before those etch into the paint.

If you absolutely must use a hose, I would invest on that cr spotless water filter kit from auto geek, multiple wash mitts, a basic power washer from Lowes, and a quality foam cannon. Use multiple mitts for the car, keep wheels always separate, wash wheels and dirty areas first, work early in the morning or late in the afternoon to minimize potential water spotting unless you wash indoors.

Once you do the initial clay, polish, protection (coating, sealant, cleaner waxes), you shouldn't need to clay again as that is what the protection is for (to release the contamination easily on your next wash and more). I also spray wax, I add this method into the drying process therefore eliminating an extra step. You can use spray waxes and other spray sealants while drying a wet car. Occasionally you will need to spot clay, but it should be nothing like the first time around.

For now try maintaining a good wash, a good clay session all around car to remove contamination, and a cleaner wax to help brighten up the paint work if you need it otherwise use a regular sealant, I usually follow meguiars xpress wax on top of that cleaner wax. After that you should maintain with spray wax to save time. Not many people can even maintain this so may the force be with you.

Just fyi I have not used a clay on my well maintained car for over a year because it simply did not need it.
-J