Time to decontaminated and re-wax - Advices?
07-26-17, 03:36 AM
#16
Yes - IronX will not damage anything on the exterior of the car if it is not hot, not allowed to dry, and rinsed thoroughly. You can get it on paint, wheels, glass, plastic, rubber..... no problem. Spray away.
Wax in straight line motions using very little pressure. The application of wax has been a mystery to many vehicle owners for all of time... all you need to do is spread the product onto the paint. Making small circles with pressure (ie "buffing") does nothing when using a pure wax or sealant. Don't trust Mr. Miyagi for everything
No, there should be no reason to decontaminate your paint that frequently unless the vehicle is subjected to a lot of contaminants on a daily basis (ie parking under a tree that leaves sap on it, working near a body shop or factory where overspray or fallout is heavy, etc). I typically recommend claying just once or twice a year for the average DD. There is no need to clay before applying wax if the car is not heavily contaminated. Just wash, dry, wax.
This is another common misconception. Clay itself is not an abrasive substance. Claying can cause marring when contaminants are lifted, stuck in the clay, and then continuously rubbed against the paint. The contaminants within the clay then act as an abrasive. This is why it is very important to constantly knead the clay so you're using clean clay on your paint, and discard the clay when it is dirty. It is a cheap, disposable product. Theoretically you can clay a clean car every day and not cause any harm if you're using it properly with plenty of lubrication.
The only way to ensure a layer of wax or sealant is completely removed is to use an abrasive like a polish... this is not feasible or recommended prior to reapplying wax regularly, simply perform a thorough car wash and then reapply your wax. Decontaminate as needed prior to waxing (once or twice a year will generally suffice).
You can get some staining coming out of jams, door handles, or wherever the chemical was hiding as it starts to leak out.
Tedious, yes... and completely unnecessary IMO as someone who used IronX in a professional environment for years. We experimented with the product on wet cars, dry dirty cars, dry clean cars... there is no major performance improvement in one case over the other for the most part. CarPro does recommend using it on a clean dry car for the best results, but I do not feel it is worth the added effort to wash, dry, iron x, wash, dry compared to either wash, iron x, rinse, dry or iron x, rinse, wash, dry. Experiment on your own and see what works best for you.
Wax in straight line motions using very little pressure. The application of wax has been a mystery to many vehicle owners for all of time... all you need to do is spread the product onto the paint. Making small circles with pressure (ie "buffing") does nothing when using a pure wax or sealant. Don't trust Mr. Miyagi for everything
No, there should be no reason to decontaminate your paint that frequently unless the vehicle is subjected to a lot of contaminants on a daily basis (ie parking under a tree that leaves sap on it, working near a body shop or factory where overspray or fallout is heavy, etc). I typically recommend claying just once or twice a year for the average DD. There is no need to clay before applying wax if the car is not heavily contaminated. Just wash, dry, wax.
This is another common misconception. Clay itself is not an abrasive substance. Claying can cause marring when contaminants are lifted, stuck in the clay, and then continuously rubbed against the paint. The contaminants within the clay then act as an abrasive. This is why it is very important to constantly knead the clay so you're using clean clay on your paint, and discard the clay when it is dirty. It is a cheap, disposable product. Theoretically you can clay a clean car every day and not cause any harm if you're using it properly with plenty of lubrication.
The only way to ensure a layer of wax or sealant is completely removed is to use an abrasive like a polish... this is not feasible or recommended prior to reapplying wax regularly, simply perform a thorough car wash and then reapply your wax. Decontaminate as needed prior to waxing (once or twice a year will generally suffice).
You can get some staining coming out of jams, door handles, or wherever the chemical was hiding as it starts to leak out.
Tedious, yes... and completely unnecessary IMO as someone who used IronX in a professional environment for years. We experimented with the product on wet cars, dry dirty cars, dry clean cars... there is no major performance improvement in one case over the other for the most part. CarPro does recommend using it on a clean dry car for the best results, but I do not feel it is worth the added effort to wash, dry, iron x, wash, dry compared to either wash, iron x, rinse, dry or iron x, rinse, wash, dry. Experiment on your own and see what works best for you.
07-26-17, 08:25 AM
#17
Im pretty sure just like everything else it will be dependent on how the stains etched? Even other defects such as bird droppings, insects etc may etch so far into the paint it would only be safe to enhance the appearance rather than remove it fully.
Why not try to never put yourself in that position whether the car is protected with ceramic or sealant, or even bare paint?
Why not try to never put yourself in that position whether the car is protected with ceramic or sealant, or even bare paint?
07-26-17, 09:31 AM
#18
Thanks Zach for the information.
Took me a good 4 hours to complete this project.. Wash, Dry, IronX, Wash, Dry, Clay, Waxed, Windows.
Just curious what results other white car owners have... The paint is forsure slicker and much softer, but the "gloss" and "reflection" is only a tad better than before.
(I still see my reflection, but its not nearly as good as a freshly waxed black car)
Took me a good 4 hours to complete this project.. Wash, Dry, IronX, Wash, Dry, Clay, Waxed, Windows.
Just curious what results other white car owners have... The paint is forsure slicker and much softer, but the "gloss" and "reflection" is only a tad better than before.
(I still see my reflection, but its not nearly as good as a freshly waxed black car)
I've thought about it, but its pricey to get it done professionally. I would do it myself, but it takes a lot of prep work, and I have zero experience with it. Afraid I might just screw it up, waxing on the other hand is sorta foolproof lol.
I've read that Meg's Ultimate Liquid Wax can last up to 6-9 months (This the stuff I just put on today). It does gives a good shine, and hopefully repels some dirt/etc. But, I do like that ceramic coating acts like another clear coat, which can take some minor damage.
I've read that Meg's Ultimate Liquid Wax can last up to 6-9 months (This the stuff I just put on today). It does gives a good shine, and hopefully repels some dirt/etc. But, I do like that ceramic coating acts like another clear coat, which can take some minor damage.
If you're only looking for protection, then you could have applied a coating instead of the sealant. Just follow the manufactures instructions and use a paint prep product before applying. It won't look as perfect as a car with paint correction, but your car will still be easier to maintain.
07-26-17, 10:42 AM
#19
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Decontamination doesn't add to the gloss. The only thing that will add gloss is polishing the paint. Waxes, sealants, and coatings only enhance what is below it.
The entire process of decontamination + paint correction before coating is to produce optimal results (which is why shops charge so much).
If you're only looking for protection, then you could have applied a coating instead of the sealant. Just follow the manufactures instructions and use a paint prep product before applying. It won't look as perfect as a car with paint correction, but your car will still be easier to maintain.
The entire process of decontamination + paint correction before coating is to produce optimal results (which is why shops charge so much).
If you're only looking for protection, then you could have applied a coating instead of the sealant. Just follow the manufactures instructions and use a paint prep product before applying. It won't look as perfect as a car with paint correction, but your car will still be easier to maintain.
Ahh, I did not do the polishing/paint correction step. My car is white, so light scratches are hard to see anyways. Plus, I'm a total noob when it comes to this step =\
One thing that came to mind, when applying wax/sealant, it's hard to see the "haze" on a white car. Any tips to making sure the product is dry and ready to be buffed off?
- What I did what apply in one section (Hood), then I moved to another section (fender), then I went back to buff the Hood. I'm sure this allowed 3-5 minutes drying (manufacturer directions), but I didn't keep track of time though.
07-26-17, 11:29 AM
#20
I'm not sure if agitating the solution would make the product work better, but it would spread the solution to cover the paint evenly. Personally, I just spray it on and rinse off.
The light scratches are hard to see, but multiple small scratches will eventually create a haze that takes away from the gloss.
You need more lighting and to look at the paint from different angles to see the haze. Keep in mind the manufacture's recommended time also depends on ambient temperature too, so if it was warmer, then the time is shorter.
The light scratches are hard to see, but multiple small scratches will eventually create a haze that takes away from the gloss.
You need more lighting and to look at the paint from different angles to see the haze. Keep in mind the manufacture's recommended time also depends on ambient temperature too, so if it was warmer, then the time is shorter.
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