Do you use wax, sealant or coating for your car?
06-16-17, 02:36 PM
#32
I've been using waxes and sealants the past few years. Once I get some body work done to my SC I am finally am going to try a coating. I've got a gallon of Chemical Guys Butter Wet Wax at home so I've been trying to use that up but I still have a ton left.
08-21-17, 02:48 PM
#33
For those that are recommending GTechniq CSL, does it really require wet-sanding to get this stuff off? I am worried about overapplying it and/or removing it in the future. I am not comfortable with the wet-sanding.
08-21-17, 07:25 PM
#35
Originally Posted by jum3
For those that are recommending GTechniq CSL, does it really require wet-sanding to get this stuff off? I am worried about overapplying it and/or removing it in the future. I am not comfortable with the wet-sanding.
Originally Posted by GSteg
Serum requires 1500 grit to remove. Serum Lite can be removed by polishing.
The only time you would need to use sandpaper to remove a coating is when it is applied improperly to the point that there are extreme high spots/runs and a relatively large amount of coating material must be removed. Some people (detailers and misinformed customers/enthusiasts) have blown this out of proportion and now some people assume the coating needs to be wet sanded to remove and/or the coating is so strong it cannot be scratched. Neither of which is true when used properly.
If, for instance, you pour a small puddle of coating into a panel and leave it to cure, then yes, wet sanding would be the quickest way to fix that issue. However, if after a couple years you just want to re-coat your vehicle, simply clean, decontaminate, polish, and recoat.
Hope that helps clear things up.
-Zach
Last edited by zmcgovern4; 08-22-17 at 06:49 AM.
08-22-17, 02:55 PM
#37
Lead Lap
My go-to process includes:
1. Poorboy's SSR1 (once the old product has been stripped). This is a very light compound, so it wont get a lot of deep scratches and swirls out. Just helps brighten the paint up a bit from fine swirls.
2. Poorboy's Black Hole. I use then on my smokey granite mica paint, but there are similar products for lighter colors. Just helps cover up some of the remaining swirls on dark cars.
3. 3M Performance Finish sealant. I'll typically do 2-3 coats. Holds up really well and looks great.
For weekly cleaning, I just use a foam gun with some Meguiar's Gold Class soap, rinse, then drive around to dry. Leaves some water sports here and there, but it's my daily, so I don't mind... And I also live in the Pacific Northwest, soo....
1. Poorboy's SSR1 (once the old product has been stripped). This is a very light compound, so it wont get a lot of deep scratches and swirls out. Just helps brighten the paint up a bit from fine swirls.
2. Poorboy's Black Hole. I use then on my smokey granite mica paint, but there are similar products for lighter colors. Just helps cover up some of the remaining swirls on dark cars.
3. 3M Performance Finish sealant. I'll typically do 2-3 coats. Holds up really well and looks great.
For weekly cleaning, I just use a foam gun with some Meguiar's Gold Class soap, rinse, then drive around to dry. Leaves some water sports here and there, but it's my daily, so I don't mind... And I also live in the Pacific Northwest, soo....
08-22-17, 04:39 PM
#38
NO! This is misleading marketing hype... when applied properly there is no reason to ever use sandpaper on a car coated with CSL or any other coating. When you want to remove it, just polish it. It's no big deal at all.
The only time you would need to use sandpaper to remove a coating is when it is applied improperly to the point that there are extreme high spots/runs and a relatively large amount of coating material must be removed. Some people (detailers and misinformed customers/enthusiasts) have blown this out of proportion and now some people assume the coating needs to be wet sanded to remove and/or the coating is so strong it cannot be scratched. Neither of which is true when used properly.
If, for instance, you pour a small puddle of coating into a panel and leave it to cure, then yes, wet sanding would be the quickest way to fix that issue. However, if after a couple years you just want to re-coat your vehicle, simply clean, decontaminate, polish, and recoat.
Hope that helps clear things up.
-Zach
The only time you would need to use sandpaper to remove a coating is when it is applied improperly to the point that there are extreme high spots/runs and a relatively large amount of coating material must be removed. Some people (detailers and misinformed customers/enthusiasts) have blown this out of proportion and now some people assume the coating needs to be wet sanded to remove and/or the coating is so strong it cannot be scratched. Neither of which is true when used properly.
If, for instance, you pour a small puddle of coating into a panel and leave it to cure, then yes, wet sanding would be the quickest way to fix that issue. However, if after a couple years you just want to re-coat your vehicle, simply clean, decontaminate, polish, and recoat.
Hope that helps clear things up.
-Zach
08-23-17, 11:10 AM
#39
I have to say that hearing this before putting it on my car freaked me out, too. It turned out to not be a concern at all. Just follow the directions putting it on, and wipe it off quickly, and the need to worry about screwing it up becomes a non issue. What really sold me though, was when someone put a 14 in surface scratch in my hood the first time I went to work after applying the coating. I was beside myself, When I contacted zmcgovern4 a week later, he told me to polish it out the same as I would without the coating, wipe it down with panel wipe, and reapply the coating. Once I worked up the courage to dive in, It worked perfectly. It took about 20 minutes start to finish.
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