mic575

I have a paint correction question. I have a new to me 2007 RX350, breakwater blue metallic (light blue). I am planning on putting a coating on it after reading a lot on here and other places, probably 22ple vx3. Thank you to zmcgovern4 and others for all the information – I have learned a lot.

I am planning on doing all the prep work, washing, decontamination, polishing, IPA etc. I was thinking of doing the Meguiars M105, then M205 for the polish steps.

My question is, is the M105 then M205 too aggressive in the hands of an amateur? Could I damage the clearcoat / paint with M105? Would M205 alone or Griot’s BOSS Correcting Cream be better for me?

This is just a daily driver and I’m no professional, I just like the look of a clean car that I have done myself. I like the shiny, wet look that some of the pros like zmcgovern4 get although I know my color is not the best for that and I cannot match their skill. It’s still fun to work on.

Background: The paint is in okay shape, not horrible. There are many light scratches and then a few deeper ones that I know probably won’t come out. Door cups are horrible and hood has many light scratches. This car probably went through the auction cycle and I don’t know who’s had their hands on it. I don’t think it has ever had any repainting done though (no wrecks). I don’t need it perfect, just want it nice and shiny and I like to do this sort of project as a hobby.

I guess I am just kind of looking for a “I’d be reluctant to use M105 because you could really screw it up I’d do (fill in blank) instead” or “you should be okay and you’ll get a great finish”.

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

Could you take a picture of paint in the sun (showing the swirls)? I find M205 adequate for most decent paint. If I need something more aggressive, I'll use a cutting pad, then go over again with a polishing pad.

I highly doubt M105 will kill your paint, but the finish probably won't be as good as it can get. Try M205 first and if it's not enough, get M105. Either way, you'll end up using M205 as your last polishing step.

mic575

Interesting you asked for the picture, I'll see if I can get one tonight. The funny thing is I don't know if I can get a good picture as they are hard to see, you have to be at just the right angle on the hood. Its partly the color, it doesn't show too much. Maybe that tells me what I need to know in that M205 is enough and use a little M105 on a couple of bad spots only.

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

Alternatively, you can snap a picture in the dark with flash.

zmcgovern4

iTrader: (2)

You should only do as little correction work as possible to remove the defects on your particular vehicle. If this means you only need to use a fine finishing polish and a polishing pad, then that is all you should do. If you have heaver defects and need to begin with a cutting compound to remove those defects, then that is what you should do....

I have explained all of this many many times throughout the years on this forum, and I always point back to this article discussing the importance of test spots to determine the process you need to produce the results you are seeking.

Analyzing Your Test Spot by Zach McGovern
Paint Correction: Pairing Products and Pads by Zach McGovern
Two Step Paint Correction Overview and Video Demo: 1937 Ford Coupe Hot Rod by Zach McGovern



So - to summarize - there is no "one size fits all" process because every vehicle will be different in terms of the type of defects, quantity of defects, severity of defects, etc. You must do your due diligence in performing an adequate amount of test spots to determine what works best for you... don't listen to what anyone else says... go on the information you gather from your test spots.

If you have any questions, let me know!

-Zach

mic575

Thank you Zach and Henry for the advice. I did a little more careful analysis of my paint last night. I also didn't know about two of those guides you posted "analyzing your paint" and "two step paint correction" which filled in some of the blanks I had.

I got ahead of myself in my original posting and the advice of - "its not one size fits all" was helpful. I am going to need to do some more analysis and testing and start with the least aggressive approach. You also made a good point in the paint analysis write up in saying - for an average user or car like mine, I shouldn't chase the RIDS or in put another way don't work over a whole car based on a few RIDS.

Thank you!

zmcgovern4

iTrader: (2)

Exactly... even I do not chase RIDS on my car. I accept that my ISF is daily driven and preserving clear coat is WAY more important than a flawless finish. Especially when the RIDS are barely visible except to those who are looking for them in correct lighting.

As for test spots & using the least aggressive method - this is a routine that we practice with every. single. car. Yes... every car we work on will go through the test spot process regardless of if we have worked on the same year, make, model, and color previously. No 2 cars will be exactly alike and preserving clear coat means determining the least aggressive method for each project.

Let me know if you have any questions.

-Zach