Everything You Need to Know About Paint Coatings!
07-20-16, 05:16 AM
#31
We recommend customers who have had their vehicles coated come see us ever 2-3 years to have the car polished and recoated. Over the course of those 2-3 years, most vehicles will develop at least light marring and/or swirls as well has general haziness that comes from exposure to the elements, so a polishing process will help to restore the clarity and gloss in the paint. Since polishing consists of actually removing a fine layer of material from the surface, it is safe to assume that the coating layer is effected and possibly completely removed throughout the polishing process, so we go ahead and recoat the car at this time.
If your car still looks great to you after 2-3 years, then in my opinion there is no need to recoat it. As mentioned above, the water behavior may have changed, but you can take 15 minutes once a month and wipe the car down with a hydrophobic coating topper after washing to help enhance water beading if that is a priority for you.
-Zach
07-20-16, 09:17 PM
#32
Lexus Test Driver
There is no exact answer here...
We recommend customers who have had their vehicles coated come see us ever 2-3 years to have the car polished and recoated. Over the course of those 2-3 years, most vehicles will develop at least light marring and/or swirls as well has general haziness that comes from exposure to the elements, so a polishing process will help to restore the clarity and gloss in the paint. Since polishing consists of actually removing a fine layer of material from the surface, it is safe to assume that the coating layer is effected and possibly completely removed throughout the polishing process, so we go ahead and recoat the car at this time.
If your car still looks great to you after 2-3 years, then in my opinion there is no need to recoat it. As mentioned above, the water behavior may have changed, but you can take 15 minutes once a month and wipe the car down with a hydrophobic coating topper after washing to help enhance water beading if that is a priority for you.
-Zach
We recommend customers who have had their vehicles coated come see us ever 2-3 years to have the car polished and recoated. Over the course of those 2-3 years, most vehicles will develop at least light marring and/or swirls as well has general haziness that comes from exposure to the elements, so a polishing process will help to restore the clarity and gloss in the paint. Since polishing consists of actually removing a fine layer of material from the surface, it is safe to assume that the coating layer is effected and possibly completely removed throughout the polishing process, so we go ahead and recoat the car at this time.
If your car still looks great to you after 2-3 years, then in my opinion there is no need to recoat it. As mentioned above, the water behavior may have changed, but you can take 15 minutes once a month and wipe the car down with a hydrophobic coating topper after washing to help enhance water beading if that is a priority for you.
-Zach
10-25-16, 12:26 PM
#33
Hi,
My IS350 is coated with Gtechniq Exo and during winter [where we have LONG LONG winters], I'm probably stuck with rinseless wash. Does using something like Optimum No Rinse Wash and Shine affect the coating? I'd probably end up topping it with Carpro Reload after.
My IS350 is coated with Gtechniq Exo and during winter [where we have LONG LONG winters], I'm probably stuck with rinseless wash. Does using something like Optimum No Rinse Wash and Shine affect the coating? I'd probably end up topping it with Carpro Reload after.
10-26-16, 05:12 PM
#35
10-28-16, 11:28 AM
#37
Hey Zach, I got my new IS200T coated with CQ Finest done yesterday. But now I need to coat the interior of the car as well. But I just dont know what kind of materials that Lexus use for the DAshboard. When I touch it, it's soft almost like fabric but kinda hard like plastic. I just have no idea what is it? Im trying to figure out what material it is so I can use the right Protection coating for it. Do you have any infos on this and the coating as well?
I know for sure that I will coat the Leather seats, is CQ Dlux the best for Leather seats coating? or ?
I know for sure that I will coat the Leather seats, is CQ Dlux the best for Leather seats coating? or ?
10-28-16, 05:36 PM
#38
DLUX is for wheels and exterior plastic trim... please do not use it on your leather!
CQuartz Leather & Vinyl Coating is used for interior protection.
CQuartz Leather & Vinyl Coating is used for interior protection.
10-28-16, 05:43 PM
#39
DLUX is for wheels and exterior plastic trim... please do not use it on your leather!
CQuartz Leather & Vinyl Coating is used for interior protection.
CQuartz Leather & Vinyl Coating is used for interior protection.
01-08-17, 07:30 AM
#41
My IS350 is coated with GTechniq and I noticed some areas, the coating is already worn out. I'm planning to do the coating myself this time rather than pay someone. I recently got a hold of a Griot Garage DA and am looking to get polish out the old Gtechniq and put something else on top like CQuartz. Since the car has very minor swirling [super fine], would Griot perfecting cream coupled with a polishing pad [or med cut pad if polishing pad isn't cutting] be enough as prep? What about Carpro Essence?
01-08-17, 07:58 AM
#42
Driver School Candidate
Carpro essence should take out fine swirls easily with a white pad. Plus you will have the added benefit of it prepping the surface for using CQuartz. Be sure to do small panels at a time to make sure you level it correctly.
01-08-17, 12:24 PM
#43
My IS350 is coated with GTechniq and I noticed some areas, the coating is already worn out. I'm planning to do the coating myself this time rather than pay someone. I recently got a hold of a Griot Garage DA and am looking to get polish out the old Gtechniq and put something else on top like CQuartz. Since the car has very minor swirling [super fine], would Griot perfecting cream coupled with a polishing pad [or med cut pad if polishing pad isn't cutting] be enough as prep? What about Carpro Essence?
There is no guaranteed answer as to how to remove your swirl marks. You will have to perform necessary test spots to figure out what works for your particular scenario. In general, a light polish like perfecting cream should remove very light marring and swirl marks when paired with a polishing pad or light cutting pad. CarPro Essence is another fine option, though I find it works best on long throw DA machines like the Rupes Bigfoot and Griot's BOSS as Essence will provide the best finish once the abrasives are properly broken down, and based on my testing that is more easily achieved on a 21mm stroke machine.
03-09-17, 08:23 AM
#44
How have you determined that the coating is "worn out"?
There is no guaranteed answer as to how to remove your swirl marks. You will have to perform necessary test spots to figure out what works for your particular scenario. In general, a light polish like perfecting cream should remove very light marring and swirl marks when paired with a polishing pad or light cutting pad. CarPro Essence is another fine option, though I find it works best on long throw DA machines like the Rupes Bigfoot and Griot's BOSS as Essence will provide the best finish once the abrasives are properly broken down, and based on my testing that is more easily achieved on a 21mm stroke machine.
There is no guaranteed answer as to how to remove your swirl marks. You will have to perform necessary test spots to figure out what works for your particular scenario. In general, a light polish like perfecting cream should remove very light marring and swirl marks when paired with a polishing pad or light cutting pad. CarPro Essence is another fine option, though I find it works best on long throw DA machines like the Rupes Bigfoot and Griot's BOSS as Essence will provide the best finish once the abrasives are properly broken down, and based on my testing that is more easily achieved on a 21mm stroke machine.
Another question: Parts of the roof have some scratches. Would it be beneficial to just do a light polish and reapply the coating to those areas or do people generally go all out, repolish entire car and then reapply coating to entire car?
Thanks in advance.
03-09-17, 06:21 PM
#45
Seems like the side panels don't bead or sheet at all. I'm getting the feeling the guy that applied may have cut corners.
Another question: Parts of the roof have some scratches. Would it be beneficial to just do a light polish and reapply the coating to those areas or do people generally go all out, repolish entire car and then reapply coating to entire car?
Thanks in advance.
Another question: Parts of the roof have some scratches. Would it be beneficial to just do a light polish and reapply the coating to those areas or do people generally go all out, repolish entire car and then reapply coating to entire car?
Thanks in advance.
To quote wiki... "Surface tension is the elastic tendency of a fluid surface which makes it acquire the least surface area possible. "... High surface tension yields pretty beads (water covering less area), while lower surface tension results in a flat appearance (water covering more area).
There are many things that will effect surface tension. Most commonly are environmental contaminants such as dirt, pollen, fallout, etc. If a vehicle sits outside and the surface has a layer of dirt/dust on it, it will not bead the same as a clean surface would. Likewise, vehicles that are exposed to harsh chemicals and salts used to treat roads in the winter time will likely experience a considerable change in surface tension over panels that are most effected by these treatments (side panels, for instance). Overtime, as contaminants bond to the paint, the surface tension may be altered to the point that it does not return after a proper washing. This can happen regardless of if you have used a wax, sealant, or ceramic coating.
Cleaning products such as shampoos, degreasers, all purpose cleaners, etc all contain surfactants which, by definition, lower surface tension. A strong cleaner could change the surface tension to the point that the surface no longer beads water.
Long story short - despite years of people associating water beading with protection, they are not directly related.
You may be able to restore some of the hydrophobic properties with a proper deep cleaning and decontamination of those surfaces, however this is the exact reason that coating topper products were created. You can restore a hydrophobic surface without disrupting the base layer of coating that should still be in tact.
You can spot correct and recoat areas if needed.
-Zach