Page 1 rewrite...looking for direction
10-23-12, 10:37 AM
#1
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Page 1 rewrite...looking for direction
So, looking for some advice from the pros on here. I would consider myself above average skill level in terms of detailing. For a year or two it was the only way I supported myself. I've tried plenty of products and had pretty good results but one thing I never got really TRULY good at was swirl/scratch removal. I use only a DA polisher and in the past for light correction I've used Meguiars machine polish...not super abrasive but did the job for fine scratches.
So, fast forward to today. I bought a black (why black?!?!?!) 2007 ES350 and between the PO and the dealership, I really don't know who mangled the paint on this car worse. Typical rock chips up front (really not as bad as I had expected), but lots of clear coat scratches and swirls/holograms galore. I've worked on worse cars, and this thing's pretty rough, but from experience with Lexus black paint it's certainly saveable.
My main concerns are two fold: 1.) We have a New England winter coming up in the next couple months and it's looking like it's going to be a bad one so I want to protect it before the winter and 2.) I don't want to go through hours of paint correction only to have it ruined during the winter and have to redo the work in the spring.
So, here's the usual battery of what I do (exteriorwise anyway..you'll notice I favor Meg's haha):
-Wash (microfiber mitt, Megs 'detailer' shampoo, power washer)
-Clay (megs clay/QD, am looking at the clay-less DA pad replacement though)
-Wash again just to make sure all the clay/qd residue is gone
-Dry (compressed air and 'the absorber' chamois)
-touch away water spots with QD/microfiber towel
-If polishing, DA with an orange pad and machine polish (6" pad, which is probably my problem)
-wipe down any polishing residue with QD/Microfiber
-DA with black or blue pad, Meg's #26 liquid yellow wax (cure for 30min-1hr before removal)
Usually that gets me good results, but I know I'm going to need to do a lot of polishing on this thing. I've been looking at the 5.5" microfiber correction kit as well as some of the others out there but I've never really gotten into compounding before. I really want to bring this paint back to life, so I'm going to dive into it on this car. I'm also looking at changing my process to the following:
-DA polish with compound etc. for paint correction
-Hand apply coating (hardbody or the like)
-Hand apply sealant (NXT 2.0 or the like)
-Machine wax over top (Meg's 26 yellow)
Is that the right order? Should I seal it first then coat it and wax it? I'm a bit new to this step, so I'm looking for product recommendations as well as product sequence recommendations.
So, fast forward to today. I bought a black (why black?!?!?!) 2007 ES350 and between the PO and the dealership, I really don't know who mangled the paint on this car worse. Typical rock chips up front (really not as bad as I had expected), but lots of clear coat scratches and swirls/holograms galore. I've worked on worse cars, and this thing's pretty rough, but from experience with Lexus black paint it's certainly saveable.
My main concerns are two fold: 1.) We have a New England winter coming up in the next couple months and it's looking like it's going to be a bad one so I want to protect it before the winter and 2.) I don't want to go through hours of paint correction only to have it ruined during the winter and have to redo the work in the spring.
So, here's the usual battery of what I do (exteriorwise anyway..you'll notice I favor Meg's haha):
-Wash (microfiber mitt, Megs 'detailer' shampoo, power washer)
-Clay (megs clay/QD, am looking at the clay-less DA pad replacement though)
-Wash again just to make sure all the clay/qd residue is gone
-Dry (compressed air and 'the absorber' chamois)
-touch away water spots with QD/microfiber towel
-If polishing, DA with an orange pad and machine polish (6" pad, which is probably my problem)
-wipe down any polishing residue with QD/Microfiber
-DA with black or blue pad, Meg's #26 liquid yellow wax (cure for 30min-1hr before removal)
Usually that gets me good results, but I know I'm going to need to do a lot of polishing on this thing. I've been looking at the 5.5" microfiber correction kit as well as some of the others out there but I've never really gotten into compounding before. I really want to bring this paint back to life, so I'm going to dive into it on this car. I'm also looking at changing my process to the following:
-DA polish with compound etc. for paint correction
-Hand apply coating (hardbody or the like)
-Hand apply sealant (NXT 2.0 or the like)
-Machine wax over top (Meg's 26 yellow)
Is that the right order? Should I seal it first then coat it and wax it? I'm a bit new to this step, so I'm looking for product recommendations as well as product sequence recommendations.
10-23-12, 02:37 PM
#3
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
I might suggest reading this discussion first to make sure you aren't trying too hard removing defects.
http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...Delicate-Paint
http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...Delicate-Paint
10-23-12, 08:14 PM
#4
First I must say we have some great vendors supporting this list and always suggest we support them.
Second, I agree I'm not familiar with Lexus 202 black onyx, but am familiar with 212 Obsidian black, which I believe to be very delicate paint and even poor quality or improperly used microfibers can cause swirl marks. If 202 black onyx is delicate too, as you indicate, then you really should start with the least aggressive method of polishing the paint.
Also mention you may use a DA based clay process, Detailed Image does have the 4" and 6" NanoSkin AutoScrub foam pads. Be sure to use the appropriate lube.
Prior to claying the car, washing as you indicate in you workflow is essential. Meguiar's Gold Class Shampoo is an excellent example of a high quality car wash. I use a foam gun with Meguiar's SuperSoap.
Again your workflow is very good. I might suggest when you prepare to start corrective work you set up a test area or a couple of test areas to develop the process that your feel is achieving the end result you want with the least aggressive method.
Two products at the low end of the aggressive scale are Ultimate Polish and M205. Both are very mild, with Ultimate Polish having more polishing oils and M205 being more aggressive. Using a Meguiar's black polishing pad you may be able remove some, all or none of your swirls with slow arm speed and moderate to heavy downward pressure and a speed of 5 on a Porter-Cable DA buffer. Move up the aggressiveness scale if you are not satisfied.
Ultimate Compound would be the next step up in the aggressiveness scale again using a Meguiar's black pad check your results. Not happy move on up to M105.
If black onyx is delicate, using M105 is like taking a sledge hammer to drive finish nails. Way over kill and will create more problems than you already have.
After either Ultimate Compound or M105 you will need to use M205 to remove any hazing you have created with UC or M105.
There are other methods you can use if the paint is delicate. All-in-ones are another method. Some have minimal abrasives and clean chemically. An example would be Meguiar's ColorX, up the scale M06, then M66 and then Paint Reconditioning Creme. Using these products reduce or eliminate swirls and also put down a coat of wax. Not long lasting wax, but wax.
Finally, the new system is the Dual Action MicroFiber Correction System. It involves using specialized microfiber pads and two liquids. This system works well with modern, reasonably hard clear coats. The first pad is the correction pad and you use D300 Correction compound. This will remove many, if not all, of the defects you may have. The second step is using the microfiber finishing pads and the D301 finishing liquid.
Step one of the MF DA system may create hazing on delicate paint and the hazing is removed by using the D301 liquid and the finishing pad. Also using M205 and a black foam finishing pad will also remove this hazing.
D301 is also a wax, much like the ColorX, M06, M66 and PRC products. Although all of these waxes are not long lived.
You are looking at longevity, Ultimate Wax both liquid and paste are considered by Meguiar's to be their longest lasting wax. It is a synthetic sealant and provides a highly reflective surface on black paints.
Gold Class Carmauba Plus is a natural carnauba wax that provides great depth and a wet look compared to the sometimes called, plastic look, of Ultimate Wax. Gold Class will not last as long as a synthetic sealant. Again using test spots will provide you with an area to compare these two or any number of waxes you may choose.
Using a carnauba over a synthetic is a totally acceptable process. Keep in mind a synthetic may have a reasonable dry time, but a long cure time of 12 hours. So if you use two coats (two coats only to insure coverage, not two layers) wait 12 hours before the second coat to allow the synthetic to cross link. Or wait 12 hours if you apply a carnauba as a second coat.
You indicate you've used NXT 2.0 and many folks prefer it to Ultimate Wax.
Didn't even discuss the permanent coatings in place of waxes.
For me, I use the least aggressive method on delicate 212 Obsidian black. M205 or Ultimate Polish. ColorX or M06. And finally I rarely need D300 and more often use D301.
Good luck and many other folks will provide you very acceptable products from other manufacturers and our vendors Detailed Image, Detailers' Domain and AutoGeek will help you out.
Second, I agree I'm not familiar with Lexus 202 black onyx, but am familiar with 212 Obsidian black, which I believe to be very delicate paint and even poor quality or improperly used microfibers can cause swirl marks. If 202 black onyx is delicate too, as you indicate, then you really should start with the least aggressive method of polishing the paint.
Also mention you may use a DA based clay process, Detailed Image does have the 4" and 6" NanoSkin AutoScrub foam pads. Be sure to use the appropriate lube.
Prior to claying the car, washing as you indicate in you workflow is essential. Meguiar's Gold Class Shampoo is an excellent example of a high quality car wash. I use a foam gun with Meguiar's SuperSoap.
Again your workflow is very good. I might suggest when you prepare to start corrective work you set up a test area or a couple of test areas to develop the process that your feel is achieving the end result you want with the least aggressive method.
Two products at the low end of the aggressive scale are Ultimate Polish and M205. Both are very mild, with Ultimate Polish having more polishing oils and M205 being more aggressive. Using a Meguiar's black polishing pad you may be able remove some, all or none of your swirls with slow arm speed and moderate to heavy downward pressure and a speed of 5 on a Porter-Cable DA buffer. Move up the aggressiveness scale if you are not satisfied.
Ultimate Compound would be the next step up in the aggressiveness scale again using a Meguiar's black pad check your results. Not happy move on up to M105.
If black onyx is delicate, using M105 is like taking a sledge hammer to drive finish nails. Way over kill and will create more problems than you already have.
After either Ultimate Compound or M105 you will need to use M205 to remove any hazing you have created with UC or M105.
There are other methods you can use if the paint is delicate. All-in-ones are another method. Some have minimal abrasives and clean chemically. An example would be Meguiar's ColorX, up the scale M06, then M66 and then Paint Reconditioning Creme. Using these products reduce or eliminate swirls and also put down a coat of wax. Not long lasting wax, but wax.
Finally, the new system is the Dual Action MicroFiber Correction System. It involves using specialized microfiber pads and two liquids. This system works well with modern, reasonably hard clear coats. The first pad is the correction pad and you use D300 Correction compound. This will remove many, if not all, of the defects you may have. The second step is using the microfiber finishing pads and the D301 finishing liquid.
Step one of the MF DA system may create hazing on delicate paint and the hazing is removed by using the D301 liquid and the finishing pad. Also using M205 and a black foam finishing pad will also remove this hazing.
D301 is also a wax, much like the ColorX, M06, M66 and PRC products. Although all of these waxes are not long lived.
You are looking at longevity, Ultimate Wax both liquid and paste are considered by Meguiar's to be their longest lasting wax. It is a synthetic sealant and provides a highly reflective surface on black paints.
Gold Class Carmauba Plus is a natural carnauba wax that provides great depth and a wet look compared to the sometimes called, plastic look, of Ultimate Wax. Gold Class will not last as long as a synthetic sealant. Again using test spots will provide you with an area to compare these two or any number of waxes you may choose.
Using a carnauba over a synthetic is a totally acceptable process. Keep in mind a synthetic may have a reasonable dry time, but a long cure time of 12 hours. So if you use two coats (two coats only to insure coverage, not two layers) wait 12 hours before the second coat to allow the synthetic to cross link. Or wait 12 hours if you apply a carnauba as a second coat.
You indicate you've used NXT 2.0 and many folks prefer it to Ultimate Wax.
Didn't even discuss the permanent coatings in place of waxes.
For me, I use the least aggressive method on delicate 212 Obsidian black. M205 or Ultimate Polish. ColorX or M06. And finally I rarely need D300 and more often use D301.
Good luck and many other folks will provide you very acceptable products from other manufacturers and our vendors Detailed Image, Detailers' Domain and AutoGeek will help you out.
10-24-12, 06:54 AM
#5
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
My 2001 GS300 was 202 Black Onyx....apparently the ES350 was offered in both 202 black onyx and 212 black obsidian...will have to check the paint code at lunch. I think they're similar, and are similarly delicate.
Thanks for the input! that's pretty much exactly what I needed. Let me clarify a couple things and ask a couple more questions.
1.) The coating wasn't to be used in place of wax. I was thinking of something like applying Wolfgang Hardbody, then following it (the next day as you indicate) with the #26 yellow wax. In my experience, that #26 lasts pretty long if you let it sit for a while. This leads me to my next question:
2.) Any experience with the wolfgang or pinnacle products? I know they're more expensive, but people have excellent results and hardbody in particular has produced some serious finishes with the GGP and black lexus cars I've seen.
I can't even find the machine polish I have from Meg's in any catalogs anywhere...haha shows how long ago I bought it. It's from the Mirror Glaze line, it's a white liquid polish. I wonder what it's been either renamed to or replaced by.
Would you say the microfiber kit is too aggressive for the delicate paint? Keeping in mind there' pretty bad swirling and some scratches needing to be removed. Your RX is a 2012 and I'd assume you've been detailing it since new, so your finish is likely light years ahead of mine. I'd take pictures but it's cloudy and rainy here so you wouldn't get the full effect.
Thanks for the input! that's pretty much exactly what I needed. Let me clarify a couple things and ask a couple more questions.
1.) The coating wasn't to be used in place of wax. I was thinking of something like applying Wolfgang Hardbody, then following it (the next day as you indicate) with the #26 yellow wax. In my experience, that #26 lasts pretty long if you let it sit for a while. This leads me to my next question:
2.) Any experience with the wolfgang or pinnacle products? I know they're more expensive, but people have excellent results and hardbody in particular has produced some serious finishes with the GGP and black lexus cars I've seen.
I can't even find the machine polish I have from Meg's in any catalogs anywhere...haha shows how long ago I bought it. It's from the Mirror Glaze line, it's a white liquid polish. I wonder what it's been either renamed to or replaced by.
Would you say the microfiber kit is too aggressive for the delicate paint? Keeping in mind there' pretty bad swirling and some scratches needing to be removed. Your RX is a 2012 and I'd assume you've been detailing it since new, so your finish is likely light years ahead of mine. I'd take pictures but it's cloudy and rainy here so you wouldn't get the full effect.
Last edited by jcat_350; 10-24-12 at 07:13 AM.
10-24-12, 10:37 AM
#6
Would you say the microfiber kit is too aggressive for the delicate paint? Keeping in mind there' pretty bad swirling and some scratches needing to be removed. Your RX is a 2012 and I'd assume you've been detailing it since new, so your finish is likely light years ahead of mine. I'd take pictures but it's cloudy and rainy here so you wouldn't get the full effect.
Personally, I might suggest going with a foam based system rather than microfiber. It may be more forgiving since you may be a little rusty using a buffer. Many of the products you may wish to use are probably availably locally.
I have no experience outside of the Meguiar's realm. There are many folks here using the products you're interested in and I expect them to comment on this thread and offer some excellent suggestions for products and processes. Good Luck.
10-24-12, 11:33 AM
#7
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
You must keep in mind, there are so many variables that affect the process. Arm speed, buffer speed, and downward pressure will all affect how aggressive a given process may be. Is the MF DA system too aggressive for delicate paint, yes it can be. If you are aware your goal is to use the least aggressive method (to reduce removing too much paint or creating hazing you must spend more time removing), then the MF DA system is fine to use on delicate paint. If on the other hand, you can use a less aggressive method (safer?), why not do it. The unknown, of course, is your paint. Is it delicate or not? Is it dry as a bone?
Personally, I might suggest going with a foam based system rather than microfiber. It may be more forgiving since you may be a little rusty using a buffer. Many of the products you may wish to use are probably availably locally.
I have no experience outside of the Meguiar's realm. There are many folks here using the products you're interested in and I expect them to comment on this thread and offer some excellent suggestions for products and processes. Good Luck.
Personally, I might suggest going with a foam based system rather than microfiber. It may be more forgiving since you may be a little rusty using a buffer. Many of the products you may wish to use are probably availably locally.
I have no experience outside of the Meguiar's realm. There are many folks here using the products you're interested in and I expect them to comment on this thread and offer some excellent suggestions for products and processes. Good Luck.
I wouldn't say I'm rusty with the ol' DA, but I see what you mean. I'll do a test area with my orange foam pad and see if anything changes, but that'll be with the old combo of the machine polish (I'd imagine it's now the machine glaze?) and the orange foam pad. In the past, this hasn't done much in the way of correction but has been pretty good at removing haze and deepening the finish (both on the Lexus I had as well as some various other darker color cars)
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10-24-12, 02:16 PM
#8
Personally I prefer foam since I haven't dabbled with the MF system with my paint thickness gauge. If you are worried about restarting in the Spring, you can either polish now and put on a coating or you can just put a couple layers of long lasting sealants and just wait. I'd do the latter since you're pressed for time right now I assume. Why rush when you can do it properly? Also, why do it only to have it ruined since you don't know if (god forbid) you get into an accident or someone hits you. It would be a shame to see it all ruined when you put in all that work just for the winter. Just some food for thought
10-24-12, 02:49 PM
#9
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Personally I prefer foam since I haven't dabbled with the MF system with my paint thickness gauge. If you are worried about restarting in the Spring, you can either polish now and put on a coating or you can just put a couple layers of long lasting sealants and just wait. I'd do the latter since you're pressed for time right now I assume. Why rush when you can do it properly? Also, why do it only to have it ruined since you don't know if (god forbid) you get into an accident or someone hits you. It would be a shame to see it all ruined when you put in all that work just for the winter. Just some food for thought
What sealants would you recommend? It'll be seeing everything from snow to sand to salt this winter.
10-24-12, 03:02 PM
#10
Patience will make the car look better when you're finished with it in the spring. Let nature have at it so it doesn't ruin a "perfect" surface when polished 
I personally don't have winters in SoCal but people swear by Collinite 476 or 845. I like 845 for ease of application but it doesn't last as long as 476. Keep in mind that these are what I deem "super waxes" due to their durability so they are better than most on the market
I personally don't have winters in SoCal but people swear by Collinite 476 or 845. I like 845 for ease of application but it doesn't last as long as 476. Keep in mind that these are what I deem "super waxes" due to their durability so they are better than most on the market
10-24-12, 07:22 PM
#11
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Patience will make the car look better when you're finished with it in the spring. Let nature have at it so it doesn't ruin a "perfect" surface when polished
I personally don't have winters in SoCal but people swear by Collinite 476 or 845. I like 845 for ease of application but it doesn't last as long as 476. Keep in mind that these are what I deem "super waxes" due to their durability so they are better than most on the market
I personally don't have winters in SoCal but people swear by Collinite 476 or 845. I like 845 for ease of application but it doesn't last as long as 476. Keep in mind that these are what I deem "super waxes" due to their durability so they are better than most on the market
I've read some good things about the Collinite stuff. Only problem I really have is understanding why the hell there can't be a standardized naming convention across all brands of detailing products...some places call sealants waxes, waxes glazes, polishes glazes, compounds polishes...enough to make your head spin
10-25-12, 07:06 AM
#12
Just my $0.02. Ive switched to using the MF pads and D300/D301 almost exclusively. I still use some foam for paint jeweling. I work mostly on late model Lexus, Caddy, BMW and Infinity models. Lots of blacks. The MF pad system works very fast and finishes up very nicely. I do follow up the D301 with a coat of Meg's Ultimate Wax Liquid and find it to be very long lasting and good looking. The key to effective polishing with the MF pads is to clean them after every pass or two. I use compressed air and blow them clean.
On softer paint, D300 and the MF cutting pad will occasionally leave some light hazing which is quickly removed with D301 and the finishing pad. This system is much faster than the foam pads IME.
In your case, I'd run down to your auto supply store, or Walmart, and pick up the Meg's MF Pad kit. It comes with the pads and polishes. Also get the Meguiar's MF backing plate which is much better for long pad life than your original DA backing plate.
While you're there, get the Ultimate Wax Liquid as well. This is a really nice sealant that can be applied to everything, paint, glass and vinyl trim. UW is now Meguiar's longest lasting sealant, BTW, and looks like NXT 2.0 or M21.
Lastly, pick up a bottle of Ultimate Quik Wax (also a sealant) which is a wipe/on - wipe/off spray sealant. Like Ultimate Wax Liquid, this can be used on all exterior surfaces. It doesn't dry white, and can be used in direct sunlight. I can do my SUV in under 15 minutes.
When our WI winter weather gets really bad, I run my vehicles through a local touchless wash. I follow that with a QD wipe-down to insure the paint is absolutely clean and dry then I use UQW to boost the wax coating, restore the slickness and leave the car sparkling. My vehicles shine all winter long.
FWIW, I negotiate a bulk purchase from a local touchless wash. I usually buy 20 codes for the Deluxe Wash which includes an underbody flush but no spray-on wax. Typically, I can get these 20 codes for around $60, about half price.
IMO, this is a really nice way of keeping your vehicle clean and salt free during the worst winter months and while the touchless wash does use harsh detergents, the use of the spray sealant refreshes the original sealant so your paint stays protected.
On softer paint, D300 and the MF cutting pad will occasionally leave some light hazing which is quickly removed with D301 and the finishing pad. This system is much faster than the foam pads IME.
In your case, I'd run down to your auto supply store, or Walmart, and pick up the Meg's MF Pad kit. It comes with the pads and polishes. Also get the Meguiar's MF backing plate which is much better for long pad life than your original DA backing plate.
While you're there, get the Ultimate Wax Liquid as well. This is a really nice sealant that can be applied to everything, paint, glass and vinyl trim. UW is now Meguiar's longest lasting sealant, BTW, and looks like NXT 2.0 or M21.
Lastly, pick up a bottle of Ultimate Quik Wax (also a sealant) which is a wipe/on - wipe/off spray sealant. Like Ultimate Wax Liquid, this can be used on all exterior surfaces. It doesn't dry white, and can be used in direct sunlight. I can do my SUV in under 15 minutes.
When our WI winter weather gets really bad, I run my vehicles through a local touchless wash. I follow that with a QD wipe-down to insure the paint is absolutely clean and dry then I use UQW to boost the wax coating, restore the slickness and leave the car sparkling. My vehicles shine all winter long.
FWIW, I negotiate a bulk purchase from a local touchless wash. I usually buy 20 codes for the Deluxe Wash which includes an underbody flush but no spray-on wax. Typically, I can get these 20 codes for around $60, about half price.
IMO, this is a really nice way of keeping your vehicle clean and salt free during the worst winter months and while the touchless wash does use harsh detergents, the use of the spray sealant refreshes the original sealant so your paint stays protected.
Last edited by jfelbab; 10-25-12 at 07:14 AM.
10-25-12, 07:16 AM
#13
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Just my $0.02. Ive switched to using the MF pads and D300/D301 almost exclusively. I still use some foam for paint jeweling. I work mostly on late model Lexus, Caddy, BMW and Infinity models. Lots of blacks. The MF pad system works very fast and finishes up very nicely. I do follow up the D301 with a coat of Meg's Ultimate Wax Liquid and find it to be very long lasting and good looking. The key to effective polishing with the MF pads is to clean them after every pass or two. I use compressed air and blow them clean.
On softer paint, D300 and the MF cutting pad will occasionally leave some light hazing which is quickly removed with D301 and the finishing pad. This system is much faster than the foam pads IME.
In your case, I'd run down to your auto supply store, or Walmart, and pick up the Meg's MF Pad kit. It comes with the pads and polishes. Also get the Meguiar's MF backing plate which is much better for long pad life than your original DA backing plate.
While you're there, get the Ultimate Wax Liquid as well. This is a really nice sealant that can be applied to everything, paint, glass and vinyl trim. UW is now Meguiar's longest lasting sealant.
Lastly, pick up a bottle of Ultimate Quik Wax (also a sealant) which is a wipe/on - wipe/off spray sealant. Like Ultimate Wax Liquid, this can be used on all exterior surfaces. It doesn't dry white, and can be used in direct sunlight. I can do my SUV in under 15 minutes.
When our WI winter weather gets really bad, I run my vehicles through a local touchless wash. I follow that with a QD wipe-down to insure the paint is absolutely clean and dry then I use UQW to boost the wax coating, restore the slickness and leave the car sparkling. My vehicles shine all winter long.
FWIW, I negotiate a bulk purchase from a local touchless wash. I typically buy 20 codes for the Deluxe Wash which includes an underbody flush but no spray-on wax. Typically, I can get these 20 codes for around $60, about half price.
IMO, this is a really nice way of keeping your vehicle clean and salt free during the worst winter months and while the touchless wash does use harsh detergents, the use of the spray sealant refreshes the original sealant so your paint stays protected.
On softer paint, D300 and the MF cutting pad will occasionally leave some light hazing which is quickly removed with D301 and the finishing pad. This system is much faster than the foam pads IME.
In your case, I'd run down to your auto supply store, or Walmart, and pick up the Meg's MF Pad kit. It comes with the pads and polishes. Also get the Meguiar's MF backing plate which is much better for long pad life than your original DA backing plate.
While you're there, get the Ultimate Wax Liquid as well. This is a really nice sealant that can be applied to everything, paint, glass and vinyl trim. UW is now Meguiar's longest lasting sealant.
Lastly, pick up a bottle of Ultimate Quik Wax (also a sealant) which is a wipe/on - wipe/off spray sealant. Like Ultimate Wax Liquid, this can be used on all exterior surfaces. It doesn't dry white, and can be used in direct sunlight. I can do my SUV in under 15 minutes.
When our WI winter weather gets really bad, I run my vehicles through a local touchless wash. I follow that with a QD wipe-down to insure the paint is absolutely clean and dry then I use UQW to boost the wax coating, restore the slickness and leave the car sparkling. My vehicles shine all winter long.
FWIW, I negotiate a bulk purchase from a local touchless wash. I typically buy 20 codes for the Deluxe Wash which includes an underbody flush but no spray-on wax. Typically, I can get these 20 codes for around $60, about half price.
IMO, this is a really nice way of keeping your vehicle clean and salt free during the worst winter months and while the touchless wash does use harsh detergents, the use of the spray sealant refreshes the original sealant so your paint stays protected.
EDIT: Did a little looking on Autogeek and am gonna pick up a couple new products and change the workflow as follows:
-Wash
-Clay (decided against the autoscrub for now)
-Wash
-Dry and Touch away any last water spots with QD/microfiber
-Machine Polish with the Meg's Microfiber kit
-Finish with the Megs Machine Polish I have (IIRC it is actually a finishing polish, so I'll compare it to the finishing wax and see which is more aggressive, use that one first then finish with the less aggressive)
-Machine Glaze with Menzerna Finishing Glaze (this stuff is all oils and fillers, no solvents or abrasives) on a soft 6" pad, sit for half an hour or so while it hazes so I make sure I don't lose any with the next step
-Seal with Menzerna Power Lock by hand, set for an hour or so before removal
-Finish over top with Megs #26 yellow wax by hand, set for half hour or so before removal
I figure if I can dedicate a day to the car I should be able to knock it out all in one shot. Just have to start out earlier in the morning I guess. My main reason for going with the Menzerna stuff is from talking to a detailer buddy. He recommended the finishing glaze because of all the fillers, it'll help take care of those tiny little fine imperfections that might be left over after polishing. Some of the stuff might not come out with polishing since it's old paint so that should help at least dull the appearance of that stuff. He also uses the Power Lock and has seen it last 8 months through a tough winter, and almost a year with a light winter like this past one, and says it's perfect for me since I'll be keeping it up (wash/wax/QD) throughout the winter and it'll still bead up nice in between. And of course, I love me some #26 so that'll go over the top for the nice deep baby's-butt smooth finish I love so much. I'm excited to see the results.
Last edited by jcat_350; 10-25-12 at 09:53 AM.
10-25-12, 06:11 PM
#14
Jim has provided some excellent advice, I've got one slight change I really like. Instead of Ultimate Quik Wax, a great product by the way, I've been using Ultimate Wash and Wax Anywhere. As a detailer it is a bit expensive, but I really like it.
10-25-12, 07:10 PM
#15
Lexus Champion
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