Headlight cleaning 101
06-20-12, 03:22 AM
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Headlight cleaning 101
Acrylic / Plastic headlights have two common issues.
UV Damage and Surface Oxidation with the latter of the two being the most common.
COMMON BIG MISTAKE:
USING ABRASIVES TO CLEAN A HEADLIGHTS
Abrasives are needed in resurfacing where there is visible damage.
Oxidation removal can be accomplished with an acrylic deoxidizer without the damage abrasives cause to a lens surface.
Rule of Thumb:
Always chose the least abrasive method first.
If you start out using abrasives you will have to continue using them each time you clean your headlights. Eventually you won't be able remove the yellow caused by UV rays.
This is UV damage and people confuse this for oxidation. This yellow is not coming out, this is not oxidation, that lens is shot.
Polish is less abrasive than and safer to use on your lens than sandpaper, Most headlight kits contain sandpaper and rubbing compound/polish.
The polish is needed to cover the damage caused by the sandpaper.
Sometimes polish can do it alone, but there is still a cost in abrasive damage to the UV layer.
A deoxidizer is the safest way. It is UV layer safe, 100% liquid with no abrasives additives and it works on contact.
Make sure you know what the problem is with the headlights to pick the right solution.
For surface Damage = Resurface / HEADLIGHT CLEANING KIT = abrasive method, requiring sandpaper and or polish = original surface altered.
reommended for lens previously cleaned with abrasives.
For surface Oxidation = Deoxidize / ACRYLIC LENS DEOXIDIZER = non abrasive method, 100% pure liquid = original surface unaltered.
Recommended for new or undamaged lens.
For UV Damage = Replace the headlight, There is no known fix for this type of Yellowing. caused by loss of the protective UV layer and exposure to direct sunlight.
UV Damage and Surface Oxidation with the latter of the two being the most common.
COMMON BIG MISTAKE:
USING ABRASIVES TO CLEAN A HEADLIGHTS
Abrasives are needed in resurfacing where there is visible damage.
Oxidation removal can be accomplished with an acrylic deoxidizer without the damage abrasives cause to a lens surface.
Rule of Thumb:
Always chose the least abrasive method first.
If you start out using abrasives you will have to continue using them each time you clean your headlights. Eventually you won't be able remove the yellow caused by UV rays.
This is UV damage and people confuse this for oxidation. This yellow is not coming out, this is not oxidation, that lens is shot.
Polish is less abrasive than and safer to use on your lens than sandpaper, Most headlight kits contain sandpaper and rubbing compound/polish.
The polish is needed to cover the damage caused by the sandpaper.
Sometimes polish can do it alone, but there is still a cost in abrasive damage to the UV layer.
A deoxidizer is the safest way. It is UV layer safe, 100% liquid with no abrasives additives and it works on contact.
Make sure you know what the problem is with the headlights to pick the right solution.
For surface Damage = Resurface / HEADLIGHT CLEANING KIT = abrasive method, requiring sandpaper and or polish = original surface altered.
reommended for lens previously cleaned with abrasives.
For surface Oxidation = Deoxidize / ACRYLIC LENS DEOXIDIZER = non abrasive method, 100% pure liquid = original surface unaltered.
Recommended for new or undamaged lens.
For UV Damage = Replace the headlight, There is no known fix for this type of Yellowing. caused by loss of the protective UV layer and exposure to direct sunlight.
Last edited by Badmittn; 06-20-12 at 03:31 AM.
07-14-12, 03:03 AM
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Headlight Restoration:
Oxidation- is caused by ultra violet (UV) radiation drying out the plastizers in the polycarbonate. This debris can be removed with a chemical paint cleaner (Klasse AIO)
There are a few headlight renovation kits available (Meguiar's, 3M, Quixx Headlight Restoration Kit)
Surface damage - when the lens starts to exhibit an opaque appearance and then a yellow hue on the outside of the lenses, which is due to ultra violet radiation (UV) and / or surface scratches this can severely restrict the amount of light reaching the road and this becomes a safety issue as you rely on the vehicles lighting system to see what’s on the road ahead and adjust your driving accordingly. .
1. Tape-off all around the lenses so that you don't accidentally wet sand or buff the surrounding areas.
2. Using a random orbital buffer with a 3.5-inch backing plate and a 4-inch (Lake County (LC) White) polishing pad or a terry cloth applicator
3. Place a small dab (about ˝-inch diameter) of plastic polish on the foam pad or applicator.
4. Place the pad on the lens surface and turn on the machine (speed #4)
5. Polish the lens repeatedly in a left-to-right and an up and down pattern.
6. Continue polishing until all the polish is gone
7. Wipe the lens with a damp Microfiber towel
8. Inspect the lens, repeat the polishing process 2-3 times as necessary
9. Finally wipe down the headlight surfaces with isopropyl alcohol (IPA) or a tack rag to eliminate any residue.
Original equipment material (OEM) suppliers started to add ultra violet resistant (UV) coating to the surface of the lens in an attempt to reduce this condition and prolong the usable life of the lens. This protective coating is very thin (25 µ (microns or 1 Mil) Removing oxidation or scratches from vehicle headlights or brake lights (also polycarbonate) also removes the OEM ultra violet protection, which prematurely decreases the durability of the lens. Surfaces that have yellowed are a sign that the ultra violet (UV) sacrificial coating has failed and must be resurfaced and recoated.
UV protective Coating Replacement - polishing or wet-sanding headlights without renewing their UV protection is a false economy, unless this protection is replaced, the end result is that you'll have to do them again in a few months (repeat this polishing process enough and there will be no material left to work with)
In order to restore the lens back to its OEM standards a new UV resistant coating must be re-applied. Once both lenses have been polished to restore clarity, they should be sanded with 1500 grit finishing paper, this ensures the clear coat has a ‘key’ to enable adhesion. When you spray clear coat on the sanded lenses it fills in those light scratches and makes them clear and glossy making them look brand new. SprayMax® (aerosol spray) is a 2K clear paint: two-component acrylic resins plus isocyanates hardener that contains UV protection
There are a few headlight renovation kits available (Meguiar's, 3M, Quixx Headlight Restoration Kit)
Surface damage - when the lens starts to exhibit an opaque appearance and then a yellow hue on the outside of the lenses, which is due to ultra violet radiation (UV) and / or surface scratches this can severely restrict the amount of light reaching the road and this becomes a safety issue as you rely on the vehicles lighting system to see what’s on the road ahead and adjust your driving accordingly. .
1. Tape-off all around the lenses so that you don't accidentally wet sand or buff the surrounding areas.
2. Using a random orbital buffer with a 3.5-inch backing plate and a 4-inch (Lake County (LC) White) polishing pad or a terry cloth applicator
3. Place a small dab (about ˝-inch diameter) of plastic polish on the foam pad or applicator.
4. Place the pad on the lens surface and turn on the machine (speed #4)
5. Polish the lens repeatedly in a left-to-right and an up and down pattern.
6. Continue polishing until all the polish is gone
7. Wipe the lens with a damp Microfiber towel
8. Inspect the lens, repeat the polishing process 2-3 times as necessary
9. Finally wipe down the headlight surfaces with isopropyl alcohol (IPA) or a tack rag to eliminate any residue.
Original equipment material (OEM) suppliers started to add ultra violet resistant (UV) coating to the surface of the lens in an attempt to reduce this condition and prolong the usable life of the lens. This protective coating is very thin (25 µ (microns or 1 Mil) Removing oxidation or scratches from vehicle headlights or brake lights (also polycarbonate) also removes the OEM ultra violet protection, which prematurely decreases the durability of the lens. Surfaces that have yellowed are a sign that the ultra violet (UV) sacrificial coating has failed and must be resurfaced and recoated.
UV protective Coating Replacement - polishing or wet-sanding headlights without renewing their UV protection is a false economy, unless this protection is replaced, the end result is that you'll have to do them again in a few months (repeat this polishing process enough and there will be no material left to work with)
In order to restore the lens back to its OEM standards a new UV resistant coating must be re-applied. Once both lenses have been polished to restore clarity, they should be sanded with 1500 grit finishing paper, this ensures the clear coat has a ‘key’ to enable adhesion. When you spray clear coat on the sanded lenses it fills in those light scratches and makes them clear and glossy making them look brand new. SprayMax® (aerosol spray) is a 2K clear paint: two-component acrylic resins plus isocyanates hardener that contains UV protection
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07-14-12, 10:18 AM
#9
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Or you can just buy the kit that already has a UV protectant in it, Crystal View. I don't know why people don't flock to this product, as everyone that I've recommended it to has used it and been amazed (as have I).
It's $20-30 (at the most), available at most Walmarts, and includes everything you need. If you want a bit more speed, you can use a drill with a pad, but it's not necessary, and it's guaranteed for life. The product is top notch, their videos are detailed and, in my opinion, pretty much dead on accurate, based on my experience with the kit and using it over 50+ times to restore headlights for myself, friends, and customers when I had my shop.
No, I do not work for them, but I see these types of threads all the time due to the use of plastic headlight assemblies and am always curious as to why people spend a lot more to do less or accomplish about the same thing.
Discussion 1
Discussion 2
Discussion 3
Check the site
And remember - lifetime warranty. Does Meg's, Mother's, 3M, Griot's, Klasse or anyone else offer a lifetime warranty on their products that are supposedly designed to do the same thing? Check their labels, I assure you they do not.
Big Mack
It's $20-30 (at the most), available at most Walmarts, and includes everything you need. If you want a bit more speed, you can use a drill with a pad, but it's not necessary, and it's guaranteed for life. The product is top notch, their videos are detailed and, in my opinion, pretty much dead on accurate, based on my experience with the kit and using it over 50+ times to restore headlights for myself, friends, and customers when I had my shop.
No, I do not work for them, but I see these types of threads all the time due to the use of plastic headlight assemblies and am always curious as to why people spend a lot more to do less or accomplish about the same thing.
Discussion 1
Discussion 2
Discussion 3
Check the site
And remember - lifetime warranty. Does Meg's, Mother's, 3M, Griot's, Klasse or anyone else offer a lifetime warranty on their products that are supposedly designed to do the same thing? Check their labels, I assure you they do not.
Big Mack
07-14-12, 12:09 PM
#10
Lead Lap
I'm with Big Mack on Crystal View. I've refinished my 2000 LS headlight lenses twice and foglight lenses once with Crystal View kits since I bought the car in 2003. The second time on the headlights was due to someone ramming the right headlight with a shopping cart which also knocked off some paint.
I suspect the Crystal View finish really would be "lifetime" if I didn't drive north so much in winter. The same blowing dust and debris that trashes my windshield also wears down the Crystal View finish. I'll have to refinish the lenses again at some point.
Here is a photo of how the headlights looked after the first time I used a Crystal View kit - like new. It's hard to describe how bad they looked before - so yellow and crudy I could barely see the chrome reflectors and the headlights put out very little light. I didn't refinish the foglights until the shopping cart incident because I thought they were hopeless. But they also came out looking and performing like new.
Wet sanding headlight lenses with the sandpaper than comes with Crystal View is a lot like wet sanding automotive lacquer between coats. It's easy to gauge progress through your fingertips. When the wet sandpaper starts to glide effortlessly, you know you are done.
I suspect the Crystal View finish really would be "lifetime" if I didn't drive north so much in winter. The same blowing dust and debris that trashes my windshield also wears down the Crystal View finish. I'll have to refinish the lenses again at some point.
Here is a photo of how the headlights looked after the first time I used a Crystal View kit - like new. It's hard to describe how bad they looked before - so yellow and crudy I could barely see the chrome reflectors and the headlights put out very little light. I didn't refinish the foglights until the shopping cart incident because I thought they were hopeless. But they also came out looking and performing like new.
Wet sanding headlight lenses with the sandpaper than comes with Crystal View is a lot like wet sanding automotive lacquer between coats. It's easy to gauge progress through your fingertips. When the wet sandpaper starts to glide effortlessly, you know you are done.
07-16-12, 03:31 AM
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In order to restore the lens back to its OEM standards a new ultra violet (UV) resistant coating must be re-applied. Use Optimum Opti-Coat™, which will provide ultra violet (UV) protection, a 2-4 µ (microns) film and a hardness of 9H (Pencil Hardness) when fully cross-linked and provides a semi-permanent coating.
