echelon

After clay baring and waxing the first time. I can see why people use power tools.... My arms feel like they are going to fall off

eyezack87

iTrader: (4)

I wouldn't recommend using a power tool with claybar lol. Waxing though, you can do by machine

echelon

Not that I'd do it but I saw this and found it interesting
http://www.autogeek.net/paintwork-cl...pplicator.html

phongh

iTrader: (5)

Just clay by hand, They wax by the PC. It shouldn't take that long to clay. I don't trust using the PC for claying. Might do more damage then fixing it. You'll never know.

MoeMistry

IMHO, claying by hand is the only way. How else can you feel and hear what's going on. I may add though, you should polish, then wax after claying. Polishing is probably more important than waxing when it comes to depth, reflection, and overall proper conditioning of the paint.

Chris@GlimmerGlass

iTrader: (3)

lol... Very true. Wait til you add polishing in there too

Olskool53

I have also seen this type of pad in the Griots catalog......

In my professional opinion I feel that this step "Claying" needs to been done by hand. This way the user can see, feel and hear the contaminants first hand being removed while performing this step. (Similar to shaving your face with a razor vs shaving with an electric) It is always best to work a section at a time, and observe your surfaces as you clay. I also recommend that you knead the clay often for the best results. There is nothing worse than skimming a clay bar really fast over a surface, then noticing that your clay bit into something abrasive and left a scratch. As you already know....DO NOT DROP CLAY, IF SO DISCARD

For the ultimate results in depth, clarity and shine, follow up with a proper polish and then a premuim wax or sealant and your good to go. Maintenance is the key, so be sure to wash correctly weekly followed by a QD, then wax at least quarterly or if not more often.....

MoeMistry

+1...good points.

STP

Just a follow up question to the above posts.

If there are touchup and areas I'm using Paintchip doctor on. Do I still go through the whole wash, clay, polish/wax steps first? Then apply the touchups?

Whats the procedure if you had to wash the car, but had scratches, etc...

Thanks

echelon

It took me so long because my truck had never been clayed before. It had ton's of rust spots from rail debris or brake dust that I had to get the elbow grease out to get those out. Those spots are horrible!

vwynn

iTrader: (4)

what exactly is rail debris btw??

Olskool53

Rail dust, also known as fallout is tiny airborne metallilc contaminants that come from the trains wheels and rail that become airborne. This dust then lands on the vehicles surface during transport, therefore contaminating the paint as it settles and bonds to the vehicle.

echelon

I had nightmares about those little orange gremlins laughing at my as I try to clay them to death