Show Prep / Detailing Guide & Definitions
#50
Great write-up! I have a few quick questions about the process:
1) Is the PC 7424XP ok to use in place of the 7424 (which is almost twice the cost of the xp)?
2) When using the polisher, are you going say front to back on the hood in straight rows or some other pattern? In other words are you letting the polisher do all the circular motions while you guide the polisher in a straight line run?
3) If the condition of my paint is overall still pretty good, should I just stick with 'polishing' pads and not use 'cutting' pads
4) About how many polishing pads & finishing pads will I need to complete an entire job on one car (IS250)?
Thanks for helping me put together my shopping list!
1) Is the PC 7424XP ok to use in place of the 7424 (which is almost twice the cost of the xp)?
2) When using the polisher, are you going say front to back on the hood in straight rows or some other pattern? In other words are you letting the polisher do all the circular motions while you guide the polisher in a straight line run?
3) If the condition of my paint is overall still pretty good, should I just stick with 'polishing' pads and not use 'cutting' pads
4) About how many polishing pads & finishing pads will I need to complete an entire job on one car (IS250)?
Thanks for helping me put together my shopping list!
#51
Great write-up! I have a few quick questions about the process:
1) Is the PC 7424XP ok to use in place of the 7424 (which is almost twice the cost of the xp)?
2) When using the polisher, are you going say front to back on the hood in straight rows or some other pattern? In other words are you letting the polisher do all the circular motions while you guide the polisher in a straight line run?
3) If the condition of my paint is overall still pretty good, should I just stick with 'polishing' pads and not use 'cutting' pads
4) About how many polishing pads & finishing pads will I need to complete an entire job on one car (IS250)?
Thanks for helping me put together my shopping list!
1) Is the PC 7424XP ok to use in place of the 7424 (which is almost twice the cost of the xp)?
2) When using the polisher, are you going say front to back on the hood in straight rows or some other pattern? In other words are you letting the polisher do all the circular motions while you guide the polisher in a straight line run?
3) If the condition of my paint is overall still pretty good, should I just stick with 'polishing' pads and not use 'cutting' pads
4) About how many polishing pads & finishing pads will I need to complete an entire job on one car (IS250)?
Thanks for helping me put together my shopping list!
2. Move the pad in front to back overlapping strokes then side to side, again in overlapping strokes. Repeat and wipe up the residue. Inspect to see that the defects have been removed then move on if you are satisfied. Try to limit your work area to something like 2'x2' at a time and move the pad at the rate of about 1" a second. Nice and slow. Pay attention to keeping the pad flat on the paint and that the pad keeps rotating. No rotation = no cut. I mark my pad with a permanent marker to it is easy to see the rotation. If you're not seeing rotation, less pressure should be applied. Its a good idea to do a test spot to see if the pad and polish combo is doing what you expect it to. Also learn how to properly prime the pad. Once primed, only add two or three pea sized drops of polish to the pad to work the paint. You actually use a lot of polish to prime the pad but then polishing uses very little.
3. I'd sure start with the polishing pad. Like I mentioned, check a test spot to see that your choice of pad and polish is delivering the results you want. The idea is to level the paint but you don't want to remove any more paint than needed so start with mild pads and polishes. If its not cutting it move up to a stronger polish, still not cutting it step up to a more aggressive pad. On some paints the use of aggressive pads and polishes will leave hazing and require going over the car with a mild polish and finishing pad to remove it.
4. You should be able to get it done with a couple of each. This assumes you are cleaning the pads after every panel. You can clean the pad by folding a cotton towel and pressing it against the pad and turning the buffer on. Refold the towel and repeat after each panel. This is a key to effectively polishing the paint. As the pad gets saturated with spent polish, lubricating oils and removed paint it will no longer cut well. Its imperative to clean the pads to keep them working effectively.
Last edited by jfelbab; 09-26-11 at 11:43 AM.
#55
I do not recommend any use of power tools touching the paint. Anything done to the paint can be done by hand and there is no concern about burning the edge or meeting your primer.
#56
Check out this pair of videos if you want more info on just how safe the PC7424Xp is.
Here is another:
About the only way to damage paint with the PC 7424XP is by dropping it on the paint.
#57
Auto Detailing Master
iTrader: (2)
Especially when there are safe tools like DA polishers. Rotary machines are becoming a thing of the past, while DA machines are the go to product for paint correction/restoration. These DA machines are extremely safe, even in the hands of a beginner. The risk of burning through paint is slim to none (unless you are completely incompetent).
Here is part 1 (of many) that shows how to safely use a DA polisher, and it is even featuring a Lexus IS as the sample vehicle.
In my professional opinion, every car owner would be doing themselves a huge favor if they were to purchase and learn to use a DA polisher. They are great for annual touch ups, and for applying sealant and/or wax on a regular basis.
-Zach
#58
#60
Lexus Champion