Originally Posted by jfelbab

The LM Protector doesn't prevent cracking. Cracking is caused by improper hydration, temperature variability and stretching. Leather that is allowed to dry out, shrinks, turns hard and is then prone to cracking. Leather swells when hydrated and shrinks when it dries. When properly hydrated,the leather fibers plump up and the leather feels soft and supple. When dry, the fibers shrink and the leather is hard and unyielding.

Automotive leather is subject to extreme temperatures, easily reaching 160°F on a hot summer day in the sun to as low as -20° or -30°F in the coldest winter in some areas. Leather swells when it is heated and shrinks and hardens when it is cold, making it prone to cracking. The temperature also plays with the hydration levels of the leather.

Leather also undergoes stretching and creasing from body weight applied while sitting on it.

To minimize creasing and cracking, keep your leather properly hydrated. This will reduce the shrinking/swelling cycles. I'm often asked, "Since our leather is coated with a urethane paint to prevent it from absorbing stains and spills, how do I keep it properly hydrated?"

Coated leather absorbs moisture through a process of transpiration. When you wipe down the leather with a wrung out towel, the water film left on the leather surface raises the relative humidity around the leather and this is absorbed by the leather at a molecular level.

The best approach to take in keeping your leather looking good for as long as possible is to weekly vacuum and wipe it down with a wrung out towel. Every few months, do a careful deep cleaning with a leather detergent like LM Leather Cleaner or diluted Woolite (20 parts water to 1 part Woolite). Follow the cleaning with a wrung out towel wipedown to remove all traces of detergent and let dry. When dry, apply a water-based fluorocarbon protector to prevent dye transfer stains and to minimize wear of the topcoat. (I use LM Protection Cream)

Where possible minimize the leathers exposure to extreme temperature variations. Use a sunshade and/or park in a covered garage on the hottest summer days and keep your car in a garage at night during the coldest winter evenings.

Properly cared for, your leather should last 20-30 years, albeit, not without developing some character creases but no cracks should be evident.

Originally Posted by jfelbab

I prefer the Leather Masters Strong Leather Cleaner. I mix it 50/50 with moderately hot water. I also use the Leather Master Protection Cream after cleaning. I clean and protect 3-4 times a year based on soiling. For weekly maintenance, I vacuum and then use a wrung out cotton towel to wipe down and hydrate the leather. Occasionally, I use Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer in place of the water wipe-down. It has cleaning agents and UV protection. It is also a good cleaner for vinyl, gauges and Navigation screens.

Originally Posted by jfelbab

I prefer the Leather Masters Strong Leather Cleaner. I mix it 50/50 with moderately hot water. I also use the Leather Master Protection Cream after cleaning. I clean and protect 3-4 times a year based on soiling. For weekly maintenance, I vacuum and then use a wrung out cotton towel to wipe down and hydrate the leather. Occasionally, I use Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer in place of the water wipe-down. It has cleaning agents and UV protection. It is also a good cleaner for vinyl, gauges and Navigation screens.

Originally Posted by SebaPR

This seems helpful but just to make sure i have a 2006 is250 with black leather ventilated seats the seats specially the drivers seat is kind of hard on the sides where the leather is not perforated and seem to be developing "creases" but no cracks just this sort of stress lines on the hard leather. I tried some turtle wax leather conditioner with aloe that is a soft leather cleaner but since its sealed that didn't do anything for the sides i think it made the perforated area a bit softer/hydrated but not much.

From what i read i should dilute the woolite (regular clothes detergent right?) 1 part in 20 parts water clean the leather up and the wipe it down with a humid towel (thats what wrung out means right?).

This should be done in a shady place right? or is the heat better to make the leather expand and absorb more hydration?

I really want to hydrate my interiors since i live in apartment and have no garage and apparently previous owner never did conditioning but seats have barely any scratches or breaks and don't need any repairs so if I can get them to their original soft and clean state they will be nearly flawless.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by dicer

Lots of reading on this thread. So where can you get the clear coat to reclear the leather?

Originally Posted by jfelbab

Originally Posted by jfelbab

Nuluxe is an engineered faux leather. It is designed to feel, look and act like real leather. Like real leather, this material must be kept clean and a mild detergent cleaner like diluted Woolite or Leather Masters cleaner is appropriate. This material is still open to dye transfer staining just like real leather so the use of a fluorocarbon protector like LM protection cream is a good idea. 303 is a good choice for preventing sun fade and premature aging but it does not prevent dye transfer staining. Conditioners are not useful. Nuluxe will not pick up moisture like real leather so hydration is no longer required to maintain the softness. Time will tell just how good this material is. It looks great and is easier to care for than real leather.

One more point. Even of you have opted for real leather in your vehicle it is not all leather. Typically, only the seating and contact facing areas are real leather and the rest is synthetic.

Originally Posted by nelson143

I have a 2015 RCF with Red Leather Interior...I've noticed that possibly my clothes are rubbing off on the leather. Maybe the jeans, any recommendations on how to clean them? And any suggestions on the type and brand of leather conditioner? Thanks.