Losing coolant ever so slightly.
02-09-13, 10:26 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Losing coolant ever so slightly.
Hi All,
It's been aprox 2 months since I had my water pump replaced on my IS-F because of the leaking issue. I though I had this issue licked when I replaced the pump... Slowly over the course of 2-3 months I usually go form high on the coolant mark to just under low. This causes me to have no heat at idle and unless I'm accelerating at a decent speed I have no hat again or very little. It's very very annoying and I'm wondering if anyone else has had a similar issue?
I checked the water pump again the other night to see for signs of a leak and didn't see any pink. I topped up the reservoir again and will pray that it was just not bled correctly since the pump was changed.
***** UPDATE ***** Issue found
Alright, so here's some pics. Great news, you don't need to take off the timing cover, if you remove the heat exchanger, you can pull the coolant transfer pipe out as backwards.
I learned a lesson on how to quickly remove the Intake Manifold.
-remove battery
-remove the fuse box power connector and the screws holding it in place
-Take only the upper side of the harness off.
Separate the wires from the plastic cover under the V-Bank cover (ISF plastic engine cover) Usually you'll break it, but it's better spending the 50$ getting a new one because you'll likely break the starter wire trying to get it off if you don't do it this way.
-Take the coolant hoses off the Throttle Body
-remove the PCV hoses
-remove coolant heater core hoses
-remove the clips form the coils and all the other junk on the right side of the engine
you should have enough slack with the stupid plasic cover out of the way to pull the intake manifold with the port injectors still attached, just make sure you unhook the fuel line hose from latch at the back where the other high pressure fuel lines run.
Vola, should take only about 1.5 hour or so if you've done it once or twice.
GOTCHA's
-Not recommended removing the fuel rail, or the pulsation dampers as they don't need to be removed and in my case caused a leak which made me do the job twice.
-If you remove the high pressure connectors with fittings, you WILL need to buy new orings as if you try to place the old ones in, they will leak under the high pressure
-DO NOT AT ALL COSTS pull too hard on the DI injector necks when trying to pull off the connector. It's very costly to replace them if they break. You are better off breaking the connector and replacing it for 6$
Total cost of this job for parts alone was.
600$ - 2 Injectors
100$ - 8 Injector clips that broke (broke 2 replaced all)
80$ - Plastic cover for wire harness over engine
150$ - Misc parts
250$ - Water pump repair which after replacing they didn't pressure test the system (at dealer)
150$ - investigation at another deal to see where the leak was and all they could tell me was it was under intake manifold...
Engine is prepped and ready for new RTV gasket around the heat exchanger, have new 5$ o-rings hopefully that will stop my fing leak.
All in all was a good learning experience on the F,
It's been aprox 2 months since I had my water pump replaced on my IS-F because of the leaking issue. I though I had this issue licked when I replaced the pump... Slowly over the course of 2-3 months I usually go form high on the coolant mark to just under low. This causes me to have no heat at idle and unless I'm accelerating at a decent speed I have no hat again or very little. It's very very annoying and I'm wondering if anyone else has had a similar issue?
I checked the water pump again the other night to see for signs of a leak and didn't see any pink. I topped up the reservoir again and will pray that it was just not bled correctly since the pump was changed.
***** UPDATE ***** Issue found
Alright, so here's some pics. Great news, you don't need to take off the timing cover, if you remove the heat exchanger, you can pull the coolant transfer pipe out as backwards.
I learned a lesson on how to quickly remove the Intake Manifold.
-remove battery
-remove the fuse box power connector and the screws holding it in place
-Take only the upper side of the harness off.
Separate the wires from the plastic cover under the V-Bank cover (ISF plastic engine cover) Usually you'll break it, but it's better spending the 50$ getting a new one because you'll likely break the starter wire trying to get it off if you don't do it this way.
-Take the coolant hoses off the Throttle Body
-remove the PCV hoses
-remove coolant heater core hoses
-remove the clips form the coils and all the other junk on the right side of the engine
you should have enough slack with the stupid plasic cover out of the way to pull the intake manifold with the port injectors still attached, just make sure you unhook the fuel line hose from latch at the back where the other high pressure fuel lines run.
Vola, should take only about 1.5 hour or so if you've done it once or twice.
GOTCHA's
-Not recommended removing the fuel rail, or the pulsation dampers as they don't need to be removed and in my case caused a leak which made me do the job twice.
-If you remove the high pressure connectors with fittings, you WILL need to buy new orings as if you try to place the old ones in, they will leak under the high pressure
-DO NOT AT ALL COSTS pull too hard on the DI injector necks when trying to pull off the connector. It's very costly to replace them if they break. You are better off breaking the connector and replacing it for 6$
Total cost of this job for parts alone was.
600$ - 2 Injectors
100$ - 8 Injector clips that broke (broke 2 replaced all)
80$ - Plastic cover for wire harness over engine
150$ - Misc parts
250$ - Water pump repair which after replacing they didn't pressure test the system (at dealer)
150$ - investigation at another deal to see where the leak was and all they could tell me was it was under intake manifold...
Engine is prepped and ready for new RTV gasket around the heat exchanger, have new 5$ o-rings hopefully that will stop my fing leak.
All in all was a good learning experience on the F,
Last edited by zazzn; 01-25-16 at 06:52 AM.
02-21-13, 10:52 PM
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
Deff not in oil, don't scare with with BHG's i'm a mk3 supra owner lol.... First thing I though when I was loosing coolant and found no leaks! hhahaha
Anyways, yeah I filled it up and will keep an eye on it.... The climate control on the IS is probably the worst I've ever had in all the toyota's I've owned
Anyways, yeah I filled it up and will keep an eye on it.... The climate control on the IS is probably the worst I've ever had in all the toyota's I've owned
02-22-13, 04:26 AM
#4
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Your car ever overheat? Try taking a look at the coolant lines that lead to your heater core to check if there is a slight leak somewhere around that area.
02-22-13, 08:34 AM
#5
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I had mine at lexus for some things and no heat at idle was one of them. my car had the pump replaced before I purchased it and I was worried I had another issue. tech says the coolant was just a little low and that's what caused it. I have topped in off with each oil change and still don't know where it's going
02-22-13, 11:12 AM
#6
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Under an IS F since 2008
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Evaporation from the coolant reservoir...... Yes it happens... 
I'm leak free and set my level to full every 6-9 months..
(Still on Orignal Water Pump - 70K miles)
~ Joe Z
I'm leak free and set my level to full every 6-9 months..
(Still on Orignal Water Pump - 70K miles)
~ Joe Z
Last edited by Joe Z; 02-22-13 at 11:59 AM.
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10-12-13, 09:44 AM
#9
Instructor
Thread Starter
Yep no leaks, still cold need to fill it every month or less.... This is annoying as hell. What ever leak there is it must be very slight. I left the car with out filling it once and it was so low that I did see the heat temp bounce around once to warmer but not hot. I ended up stopping at a gas station and putting in water and no problem afterwards. This crap is pissing me off, paid dealer to take a look and to change the water pump in the first place no dice. Time for me to investigate...
10-12-13, 12:14 PM
#10
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Just got my car back from the dealership because of the same no heat at idle and having to refill the coolant tank. had the water pump replaced 1 year ago and then 2 radiators that started showing signs of leaking at the upper and lower tanks. On inspection they removed the intake manifold to find 2 inches of dried coolant on the valley. There is a coolant passage with a cover in the valley that apparently had a slow leak. everything was cleaned and reassembled, pressure tested and test driven. so far no leak. I have to take the car back in one week to have them remove the intake manifold for a visual reinspect. not a single tech in the shop had ever seen this before. Just something to think about. I have pics, just need to see how to post them.
Last edited by HB1975; 10-13-13 at 06:44 AM.
Let us know what you find out. Good luck!
01-14-14, 08:58 AM
#13
Just got my car back from the dealership because of the same no heat at idle and having to refill the coolant tank. had the water pump replaced 1 year ago and then 2 radiators that started showing signs of leaking at the upper and lower tanks. On inspection they removed the intake manifold to find 2 inches of dried coolant on the valley. There is a coolant passage with a cover in the valley that apparently had a slow leak. everything was cleaned and reassembled, pressure tested and test driven. so far no leak. I have to take the car back in one week to have them remove the intake manifold for a visual reinspect. not a single tech in the shop had ever seen this before. Just something to think about. I have pics, just need to see how to post them.
01-17-14, 06:42 AM
#14
Instructor
Thread Starter
Hi Ron,
No I haven't, unfortunately the kit I bought doesn't fit this car, so I returned it. I've been reassembling the car.
I believe HB1975 and I have the exact same problem, I'm sure it's the transfer pipe, as there was TONS of crust under there. I cleaned it up and broke two DI injectors in the process of inspection... So far i'm about 1200$ or more deep out of my pocket alone on this problem as I paid to have my Water pump done at the dealer, and what pisses me off is they clearly didn't pressure test it.
When I dug in my self I found all the pink crust everywhere, the transfer pipe is leaking but to replace the O rings, you have to remove the timing covers apparently.
HB1975 did the dealer do this for you? was this under warranty? Since I bought my car form someone directly his CPO didn't transfer... (Man I wish I had the warranty now).
Anyways. anymore details, because the steps to replace the transfer pipe in the TSRM are pretty astounding.
Oh and let me reference my other thread.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...of-engine.html
No I haven't, unfortunately the kit I bought doesn't fit this car, so I returned it. I've been reassembling the car.
I believe HB1975 and I have the exact same problem, I'm sure it's the transfer pipe, as there was TONS of crust under there. I cleaned it up and broke two DI injectors in the process of inspection... So far i'm about 1200$ or more deep out of my pocket alone on this problem as I paid to have my Water pump done at the dealer, and what pisses me off is they clearly didn't pressure test it.
When I dug in my self I found all the pink crust everywhere, the transfer pipe is leaking but to replace the O rings, you have to remove the timing covers apparently.
HB1975 did the dealer do this for you? was this under warranty? Since I bought my car form someone directly his CPO didn't transfer... (Man I wish I had the warranty now).
Anyways. anymore details, because the steps to replace the transfer pipe in the TSRM are pretty astounding.
Oh and let me reference my other thread.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...of-engine.html
