On this fix, is there any drawback to a "too thick" metal triangle plate under the trim. I used a piece of metal roof flashing but I do not know the gauge for sure. Followed the fix as per other instructions. I still have a little wind noise, but my ear has it from the top of the window, not the front anymore. Helps to "crack" the window a little bit, but then I get some creaking noise going over bumps, etc.

I was thinking about redoing the fix one more time because of recent comments on this thread and was thinking about the thickness of the triangle piece.

Thanks

 

If you are getting wind noise at the top you will need to replace the window trim, Lexus calls it window run. Once you replace it the wind noise will be gone from the top.

 

LSJust did mine using 0.02 inch thick alminum, very light and non-protrusive . . . I was worried that with the plate and 2 layers of silicone, the end result would be bad. To be honest, it fits better and more flush afterward. The metal roof flashing should be thinner than 0.02 inch thick so you should be fine. Mine too, has some minor wind noise at at the top but the noise at the corner is very likely gone (did it yesterday and only test drove for a few miles).

 

I don't think the thickness of the material would make any difference. One thing that you need to pay attention to is do not put any pressure on the black trim while it is curing. You shouldn't clamp it or anything like that. Just touch it on and position it and then let it dry. The trim saddles the window gasket and the gasket moves out some when the glass passes through it and then a little more when the window tops out. If you put pressure on the trim while it is drying then when the window goes up it will probably tear the seal. That effect is why lowering the window slightly helps the noise problem. If the gasket movement is severe then you may have to use a shim under the trim edge while it drys to leave enough space for the gasket to move.

 

I'll check that out. I did not put pressure on the black trim but, as you say, maybe it needs a spacer to give more room. I think I am beginning to understand the dynamics of the two stage window "move out" and I need to see if the trim piece is being pushed out and moving too. If it is, I assume I still have it too tight to the gasket and will investigate the spacer idea.

Thanks,

 

One of my top 3 reasons for buying Lexus products instead of the other luxury makes is DEAD SILENCE in the cabin. My solution to the wind noise was to buy a 2006 LS430 with 22k miles for $24,400. I much prefer the LS430 body style as the body has a more formal look to it. So many cars now look the same and sometimes a
$30k and a $70k car look about the same. The LS430 is not mistaken for anything else on the road except maybe a 90's S Class.
Also the larger rims/ low profile tires on the LS460 compromise the smooth luxury ride. To me LEXUS has made a big mistake by trying to be a Japanese BMW. I buy LEXUS for an ultimate luxury ride not a full size sport sedan.
if I am curious to hear from other LS fans about what they think of this comparison and if there are more closet LS430 lovers coming out?
Or am I the only one that cares more about the car itself and less about having the newest technology.

 

Took my car out for an extended drive over the weekend with the JMcRaney fix - beautifully quiet there; i.e., absolutely no more wind noise from the corner . . . However, I am hearing wind noise coming through the top of the driver's window (closed) but not any other windows - does anyone have the instruction on how to replace the driver's window run - is it a chore to fix? Thanks to all for your help!

 

Does anyone have any information on wind noise problems in the 2013 RX 350? I am so disappointed with this situation and actually regret entering into a lease for 36 months. I previously had a 4 year lease on a 2003 GX470 and it was MUCH quieter. When a friend recently let me drive a 2013 Nissan Altima, I was blown away by how much quieter it is then the RX, especially since it costs about 50% of the Lexus. I was shocked to read all the hundreds of posts here about wind noise issues with LX models, and fascinated by the letters to and from Lexus by Lexus owners about the problem. I appreciated the substantial information provided by one forum member on a fix hew developed for the LX and I am hoping someone here has useful information on how to solve this embarrassing and disappointing problem with the 2013 RX 350. Thank you!

 

2013 and already facing noise problems? Wow! From what I see where the mirror is and with the corner facade (similar to the LS460), I am willing to bet that it's the same problem/source of noise as the LS460. I think McRaney's also talked about how to test for leakages (vaccum . . .)

Also, I would not compare a Lexus to a Nissan - it's like comparing a Mercedes to a Dodge . . .

 

A Google search of the 2013 RX350 reviews shows some, but only a few, of the professional reviews finding excessive road/engine/wind noise.

http://www.cars.com/lexus/rx-350/2013/expert-reviews/ has this comment: “While the interior of the RX can be incredibly quiet, filtering out an immense amount of road and engine noise, the extra-large side mirrors create more wind noise than expected.”

RX350 wind noise complaints have been common for several years. http://www.caradvice.com.au/26465/20...iew-road-test/ has this comment: “Disappointingly however, and contrary to claims from Lexus, the RX350 cabin is not as quiet as it could be. Wind noise from the large wing mirrors is evident through the side glass, as is tire noise on all but the smoothest of paved surfaces. Interestingly engine and exhaust noise is minimal showing improvements in some areas, but not others.”

A few of the owner reviews mention road/engine/wind noise too. However, many of the reviews have remarks about how notably quiet the RX350 is.

Even though several reviewers have attributed this problem to “large side mirrors” I find that view to be ridiculous. I assure you it has nothing to do with the mirrors.

MyLS460 is likely right, in his comment in Post #99 above, that the wind noise problem is related to the trim in the window corners, much like the trim defect that has affected many of the LS460s. I had a similar problem with my Toyota Sienna that I was able to fix with some sealant – it was so bad it was about to drive me crazy. Once a simple repair is done most of these noisy vehicles are transformed into exceptionally quiet vehicles.

Bettertown, your RX 350 can probably be repaired and ridded of the noise with a simple, inexpensive repair. However, it is unlikely that Lexus or your Lexus Dealer will help you with that. Since yours is a lease vehicle I am not sure what to suggest.

This problem that affects so many vehicles is not about air blowing through holes or air leaks. It is about the vehicle’s capability to isolate the inside from the noises that are occurring outside. This is a characteristic that can be easily quantified with an inexpensive sound meter.

I need to make a point here that I have made before but may have been missed by some: If you repair your trim then you should be sure to do both sides. The trim defect, although it can be unilateral (one sided), is usually bilateral (occurring on both sides). The important point is that if you have two sources of noise then getting rid of one will not likely produce noticeable results, so repairing one side and giving up because it didn’t improve things might be and probably is a mistake.

Here is an example of how noise in the presence of noise can be deceptive. Let’s say it is a quiet morning in the neighborhood with the background noise at about 40dB. And your neighbor has two identical lawnmowers. You get out your sound meter and turn it on and he starts his #1 mower – your sound meter reads 70dB. Then he starts his #2 mower – your sound meter now reads 73dB. Many people would not be able to tell you that a second mower was started by their perceptions of the sound. The sound pressure doubled when the second mower was started however many humans can’t distinguish an increase, or decrease, of 3dB. Typical human perceptions of sound is that sound doubles at about an increase of 10dB which is a 10X increase of sound pressure.

Keeping in mind the explanation above, let’s say that both trim pieces are detached and the noise measures 73dB. If we fix one of the defective trims then the noise drops to 70dB. Then when we fix the second defective trim the noise drops to 40db. This means that the sound pressure was reduced to 1/1000th of the sound pressure from one defective trim and the perception of the sound was reduced to 1/8th of the perceived sound of one defective trim.

 

Jmcraney: what s your opinion of replacing the window runs of the front door windows? Have you done that to try to lessen/stop the perceived wind noise at the top of the windows (after the trim DIY fix)?
Thanks.

 

Fhobbs,

I've been thinking of what to say that might be helpful.

I have not had a problem like that with my car and there have been only a few reports at CL about problems with window seals.

It seems unlikely that both front door window seals would be defective at the same time. And it is unlikely that there would be anything wrong with the parts that you couldn't feel or see from the outside.

Reports here and in other discussion have indicated that window seals and door seals were replaced and/or modified by dealers and individuals in attempts to stop the wind noise problem, with little or no improvement. We now know that many of the wind noise problem were related to the trim defect. It seems possible that the integrity of some of these seals may have been compromised because of improper reassembly. With that in mind I would look at the vehicle records to see if there is a note about that sort of repair.

Replacing the window seals is an expensive deal and with the uncertainty that it will help, or make things worse, you might want to try a few other things first.

It is not normal for your car to have noise at the top of the windows.

One area of concern with the trim repair is the spot under the upper rear corner of the trim, where the window seal meets the chrome piece. I expect every car is slightly different here because of fit and placement of the window seal, but there is often a deep crevice there. You should put the nozzle of your sealant tube into that area and fill it pretty good. If you don't understand what I am talking about I can post a picture.

 

Thanks for the input. I do know what you mean by the spot on the upper rear corner and will check that out to be sure it is sealed.

One thing that may make my window runs different is that I had the windows replaced with the laminated windows, but not the seal kit because the vin# in the TSIB indicated I did not require it. Now I wonder, but I remember it is an expensive item to replace all the seals. Since I was hearing noise now at the top of the window, I was thinking to replace the top runs only.

I recently replaced the tires all the way around and the road noise is greatly reduced and overall the car is super quiet. I believe it to be true that it is so quiet that even the slightest wind noise is noticeable.

I may be wasting energy (and money) trying to eliminate all noise.

Thanks again.....

 

After reading the Toyota bulletin and the instruction (tedious with all things involved) on how to replace the runner, I opted not to mess with it considering the technician at the dealer would likely create other issues (and dirtying up my car) while fixing the noise problem SPECULATED to be caused by the runner. In fact, I could go back to ask the dealer to replace my front windows to the laminated type and the runners but for the same concerns noted above, I am good with mine as is.

At any rate, there may not be a windnoise problem through the runner (drivers side) other than my brain still in the process of getting off the old noise problem (which is now fixed by the McRaney method) , if any wind noise at all, it is difficult to quantify/pinpoint . . .

I think you've made the right choice . . .

 

In order to help diagnose the source and type of noise, I suggest you can get an APP for your smartphone by searching your store of choice "Spectrum Analyzer for iPhone/Android/etc". (The one I use is from Onyx.) By moving the phone mic around your cabin you will clearly see the spike in freq and intensity thereby descerning the location with much better accuracy than your ears. Only suggestion is to have someone other than the driver conduct the measurements. Low road noise will be concentrated on the left and high pitched wind and other whistles on the right. Make sure to turn off the radio and climate control fans because the microphone will pick up all sounds.