There's another post here somewhere about wire cutting and what could have been bad luck with that approach... I would never cut wires for a part that is $5k-$10k new. So, to your post, above, I would say that regardless of how the PS module works, it's the best, most cost effective approach and whatever anomalies it introduces can be worked around...

Lee

 

from what i read, cutting wires has time limit of around 45 seconds or so.

and main difference is warranty, take a look here
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...-at-times.html

if he had wire cutting, i don't think the dealership would honor the warranty. i actually know of 2 other cases already where the owner has problem on head units and talked to dealership. they have the prestigious kit and dealerships were ok about it. of course that's case by case i guess

 

Can anyone with a GS450h confirm that the GWS191 model of the TV-Navi kit will work with the US spec model GS450h? Apparently there are different models for the hybrid and non-hybrid versions. .

If that model number is wrong, can you let me know which model did work with your GS450h (with Mark Levinson).

 

I have an 07 gs350 no ML I well buy a PS if anyone in the bay area can help me install. I work at a bagel shop so foods on me

 

Thought I would share this....

My install uses an OEM switch cover for that factory look....

 

wow that's very clean install! awesome!

 

Pretty cool!!!

I like it

Did you take apart the oval switch and just attach the internals to a factory blank???

Joe Z

 

Thats sweet, anyway you can post up a quick how to or the parts you used. I see you have an 08 so was that an empty slot? The 06 doesn't have that I think, but what did you use to secure it from the bottom?

 

Exactly - I removed the coin holder, purchased a factory blank for it's place... Follow the below AT YOUR OWN RISK and note, you will no longer be able to use the switch in it's original form if you chicken out or damage it...But, the good news, it's probably easy to wire a replacement. Also, the blank was about $6 at Lexus, so I ordered several ;-), just in case.

I didn't do pic's, but here's the step by step:

1) Disassemble the switch (2 screws at the bottom)
2) remove circuit board and buttons (rubber buttons are all one assembly - do NOT damage the small "tentacles")
3) Using a ruler, mark the center of the factory blank (top and bottom, long ways)
4) Measure the center (short ways)
5) draw lines to create a "cross hairs"
6) align the buttons to the cross hairs for centering and trace
7) use a small drill bit to drill a "starter hole" for each button in the very center of the traced circle. This mod requires TWO holes (one for each button, in case that was not obvious)
8) Use a wedge bit - don't know the exact name - it's a round bit, which is pointy at the tip and graduates to a larger bit as you progress UP the bit. Use this bit to GRADUALLY increase the size of the holes until both buttons fit and will move freely. Note that this bit makes a very smooth hole, much better than any other type of bit whcih may create a jagged hole requiring filing/sanding.
9) Use either super or gorilla glue to glue the buttons in place on the underside of your freshly drilled blank - glue the tentacles ONLY (you will understand this once you've opened the switch).
10) Bend the wires attached to the circuit board out of the way, to form an L between the cable and circuit board so the circuit board can be placed into the blank without modification of the blank.
11) Use a grinding tool to "gently" and "slightly" grind down the short side edges of the circuit board. Make sure that you do not accidentally grind down any tracers (metal contacts).
12) place the circuit board into the blank - make sure that the end AWAY from the wires aligns with the "NAV" button.
13) Using the bottom piece you removed from the original switch, place the circuit board into the botom and firmly push the whole assembly/circuit board up to the buttons. While holding the board in place, align it so that you can press each button and hear an audible click (confirmation that you have achieved alignment). The inclusion of the original switch bottom allows easier placement of the circuit board and less material required for step 16.
14) Then carefully use gorilla glue or superglue to lock the circuit board in place...
15) Continue to hold the board with your finger and blast it with a couple of blasts of compressed air or C02 which will help accelerate drying.
16) Using SILICONE (the caulking type or type from home depot in a tube, make sure it is NOT SOFT DRYING) Cover the circuit board and bottom of the blank - USE YOUR FINGER FOR APPLICATION for best aim/control.
17) Wait 24 hours for Silicone to cure and harden....(You can snap it carefully into place while you wait).

Voila - you will still need to be somewhat gentle - don't pound on these buttons.... but it works great!

Notes: If this doesn't hold, I plan to use epoxy to seal the bottom, but I think the Silicon is a better approach so that it doesn't damage the board. Epoxy on TOP of the silicone will be fine, for anyone trying it. The silicone is the same stuff they use to SEAL a circuit board from the elements...

Note #2: I am a big fan of JB Weld, but this will NOT work on plastic and MAY actually damage or "eat" away at the circuit board, so I would not attempt this.

Note #3: Summer is a perfect time to do this modification as the heat will speed the cure process on both the glue and silicone.

Enjoy!

Again: I take NO responsiibility for your actions on this or any damage you do to the PS mod, your vehicle, etc., but I do wish you luck! <---Note added because we live in a litigious society LOL

 

awesome awesome instructions there!!!

 

Sick install. You have inspired me to try this out

Thank you for sharing

 

thx for sharing lee! that's a clean install.

 

one more vote for that being clever and slick. well done! I'm going to give that a try. gulp.

 

Glad everyone liked this - one additional note - I forgot to mention that I used the bottom piece of the ORIGINAL switch to add some depth within the blank. In other words, I put the circuit board back into the "bottom" piece of the original switch before I positioned it into the factory blank - this gave me more depth, and less volume/area to fill with silicone once done....It also helps to position the board properly.

 

Wow, I will chime in also and say that that install is clean and OEM looking for sure! Good job!