Hello LS forum, 92' LS4 on craiglist and I bought it.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,147
Likes: 2
From: Minnesota
The rebuild continues........
Intake mani removed...
Profile shot... with u/l intake manis removed.
Right bank...
Left bank..
Head gaskets are ok, I knew this.... but I needed to take it off due to the stripped sparky.. Which was easy with the head off, just use a tap and it was well oiled so it spun right up.
I was going to just shimmy a new gasket in there cause the old exhaust was a F***er, but with a little bit a elbow grease I was able to get the head loose for a good cleaning. I was going to do the valve seals myself... but by the time I purchase the tools, seals, and my time... I just brought them to my local cyl head shop. It was about $190 for seals, checked, and cleaned, can't beat that.
There was so much grease and grimey that I was happy as hell with this cleanup.
Intake mani removed...
Profile shot... with u/l intake manis removed.
Right bank...
Left bank..
Head gaskets are ok, I knew this.... but I needed to take it off due to the stripped sparky.. Which was easy with the head off, just use a tap and it was well oiled so it spun right up.
I was going to just shimmy a new gasket in there cause the old exhaust was a F***er, but with a little bit a elbow grease I was able to get the head loose for a good cleaning. I was going to do the valve seals myself... but by the time I purchase the tools, seals, and my time... I just brought them to my local cyl head shop. It was about $190 for seals, checked, and cleaned, can't beat that.
There was so much grease and grimey that I was happy as hell with this cleanup.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,147
Likes: 2
From: Minnesota
Trunk full o' parts...
Garage full o' oily parts...
So I hit ground zero, I am going to take the manifolds off and clean them, then it's build time.... I have already cleaned and preped the upper part of the block for the heads and intake. I am going to block off the EGR because my friend owns a sheetmetal shop, so he can fab them up in a heartbeat going by the gaskets. I have yet to order the rebuild gasket kit, however I have put together my list. Oil pans will be taken off, and the grey silicone, which is factory will be cleaned up and the toyota oem black silicone will go back on both upper and lower pans. I am ordering the rebuild kit, timing belt, water pump w/ o-rings. I broke the light blue sensor that sits on the front intake crossover, which needs to be replace, I will replace the the ECT sensor that is supposed to bring a new life back to the 1uz. Get my heads back, put on ex. manifolds, cam seals, set cams.... (I'm scared, but I think I can do it.), water pump, timing belt, replace idler pulley and tensioner pulley, AC pump, P/S (w/ the vac switch plugged), valve cover gaskets, intake mani, fuel rails, sensors, throttle body, thermostat, replace rad hoses, heater hose, and vacuum hose... Plugs, wires, oil, oem oil filter, air filter, pcv valve...
AHHH, Did I forget anything?
Couple of questions...
1. Does everyone run OEM water pumps or does a parts supplier suffice?
2. Does anyone run the Toyota red coolant? I have about 15 bottles, I need gone.
3. What resister do I need to fool the ecu to think I still have EGR?
4. Should I replace the starter, I'd hate for it to go out on my break in.
5. Do I need to purchase ignitors with a tune-up?
6. I had an exhaust leak, it sounded pretty bad, is there a common exhaust manifold crack, is it possible my cat is plug, any common places to check with the heads out?
Some other toys that I'm working on are..
1964 Ford Falcon Futura Conv. 5.0 HO EFI, C4, Ford 9", etc....
1962 Chevy Corvette Conv. 327, 330hp, rebuilt Borg Warner T10, posi rear end, etc...
Finally the money shot... The passionate pursuit perfection....
Does anyone have any tips or suggestions or questions or comments? They are welcomes, I can appreciate other people suggestive comments.
Garage full o' oily parts...
So I hit ground zero, I am going to take the manifolds off and clean them, then it's build time.... I have already cleaned and preped the upper part of the block for the heads and intake. I am going to block off the EGR because my friend owns a sheetmetal shop, so he can fab them up in a heartbeat going by the gaskets. I have yet to order the rebuild gasket kit, however I have put together my list. Oil pans will be taken off, and the grey silicone, which is factory will be cleaned up and the toyota oem black silicone will go back on both upper and lower pans. I am ordering the rebuild kit, timing belt, water pump w/ o-rings. I broke the light blue sensor that sits on the front intake crossover, which needs to be replace, I will replace the the ECT sensor that is supposed to bring a new life back to the 1uz. Get my heads back, put on ex. manifolds, cam seals, set cams.... (I'm scared, but I think I can do it.), water pump, timing belt, replace idler pulley and tensioner pulley, AC pump, P/S (w/ the vac switch plugged), valve cover gaskets, intake mani, fuel rails, sensors, throttle body, thermostat, replace rad hoses, heater hose, and vacuum hose... Plugs, wires, oil, oem oil filter, air filter, pcv valve...
AHHH, Did I forget anything?
Couple of questions...
1. Does everyone run OEM water pumps or does a parts supplier suffice?
2. Does anyone run the Toyota red coolant? I have about 15 bottles, I need gone.
3. What resister do I need to fool the ecu to think I still have EGR?
4. Should I replace the starter, I'd hate for it to go out on my break in.
5. Do I need to purchase ignitors with a tune-up?
6. I had an exhaust leak, it sounded pretty bad, is there a common exhaust manifold crack, is it possible my cat is plug, any common places to check with the heads out?
Some other toys that I'm working on are..
1964 Ford Falcon Futura Conv. 5.0 HO EFI, C4, Ford 9", etc....
1962 Chevy Corvette Conv. 327, 330hp, rebuilt Borg Warner T10, posi rear end, etc...
Finally the money shot... The passionate pursuit perfection....
Does anyone have any tips or suggestions or questions or comments? They are welcomes, I can appreciate other people suggestive comments.
Last edited by 3UZFTE; Apr 14, 2009 at 08:07 PM.
4. Should I replace the starter, I'd hate for it to go out on my break in.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...ml#post4191291
NELOC Mod
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,201
Likes: 9
From: MD
Wow,, you certainly did not waste any time getting the LS torn apart at all. Great job. While you got her all opened up, you might as well replace the starter since you don't want to have to tear her all down again to do so. Injectors wont hurt to be changed either while you are there. EGR tube at the back of the engine is most likely cracked (common) and may need to be replaced. For $400 you practically stole that car from the owner. It looks like it has been abused quite badly by the previous owner, but hopefully you will give her a good home and some much needed loving treatment that she deserves.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,147
Likes: 2
From: Minnesota
Thanks for the comments.
Another question... What is the baby blue sesnor/switch, I broke the vacuum fittings off by accident... Sewell doesn't seem to show this sensor. Is this the Engine temp sensor? Part # 89422-20010? Because that sensor doesn't have vac fittings.
Another question... What is the baby blue sesnor/switch, I broke the vacuum fittings off by accident... Sewell doesn't seem to show this sensor. Is this the Engine temp sensor? Part # 89422-20010? Because that sensor doesn't have vac fittings.
Last edited by 3UZFTE; Apr 16, 2009 at 04:46 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,147
Likes: 2
From: Minnesota
Update... as if anyone cares..
Found my exhaust leak..., You guys were right, the EGR pipe was cracked, you can never pass up good information.
After 3 stages of degreasing, I am finally happy with what I see. Noticeable difference. Look at the pan now, and then.
Manis and cats that come out in an unordinary fashion...
Much of the exhaust work removed, the rest is just hanging... waiting to be removed.
Close up of the upper oil pan with old silicone removed.
With the new OEM toyota silicone installed and torqued, the good ole' silicone squeeze.
My new rolled back odometer/gauge cluster. 187k was a far as I wanted to go, I just wanted one in the range of 150-200k, for a better idea of the mileage. Since it stopped at 88k, I just stopped around 188k, because there is not difference between 150k and 180k if the mileage is not accurate. I purchased it for $59, and it had a few scratches, a crack, and mileage was at 211k, but all bulbs worked. So i pulled the ODO off, and proceeded set my desired miles, after about 30 minutes, i was about 25k miles back, and thats where I decided I'd have enough.
Found my exhaust leak..., You guys were right, the EGR pipe was cracked, you can never pass up good information.
After 3 stages of degreasing, I am finally happy with what I see. Noticeable difference. Look at the pan now, and then.
Manis and cats that come out in an unordinary fashion...
Much of the exhaust work removed, the rest is just hanging... waiting to be removed.
Close up of the upper oil pan with old silicone removed.
With the new OEM toyota silicone installed and torqued, the good ole' silicone squeeze.
My new rolled back odometer/gauge cluster. 187k was a far as I wanted to go, I just wanted one in the range of 150-200k, for a better idea of the mileage. Since it stopped at 88k, I just stopped around 188k, because there is not difference between 150k and 180k if the mileage is not accurate. I purchased it for $59, and it had a few scratches, a crack, and mileage was at 211k, but all bulbs worked. So i pulled the ODO off, and proceeded set my desired miles, after about 30 minutes, i was about 25k miles back, and thats where I decided I'd have enough.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,147
Likes: 2
From: Minnesota
Along with the gauge cluster, I picked up a Power steering pump at a salvage yard for $75 w/ a lifetime warantee, can't beat that... Also decided to go with the SC400 pump because it has... no IACV on the pump to leak, or make me spend extra money to fix it, that is the only different between PS pumps, the resevoirs are different, but the SC resv unbolts to adapt the LS resv.
Last but certainly not least are my cyli heads... Fresh back from Cylinder head supply. Cleaned, checked, and assembled with new seals for $197. Unfortunetly I have to wait for my engine gasket kit from Sewell to start assembling.
As mentioned before, I am waiting on a several parts from Sewell as they are coming from their warehouse, not the dealer. On order I have the Engine gasket kit, timing belt, water pump w/ o-rings, TB tensioner pulley, and idler pulley, and a few other little things.
My cost breakdown..
92' LS400 = $400
Parts = $800
Tools = $40
Materials = $20
Owning 2 Lexus' and bring a 1st Gen back to life, Priceless, for everything else there is Toyota.
Last but certainly not least are my cyli heads... Fresh back from Cylinder head supply. Cleaned, checked, and assembled with new seals for $197. Unfortunetly I have to wait for my engine gasket kit from Sewell to start assembling.
As mentioned before, I am waiting on a several parts from Sewell as they are coming from their warehouse, not the dealer. On order I have the Engine gasket kit, timing belt, water pump w/ o-rings, TB tensioner pulley, and idler pulley, and a few other little things.
My cost breakdown..
92' LS400 = $400
Parts = $800
Tools = $40
Materials = $20
Owning 2 Lexus' and bring a 1st Gen back to life, Priceless, for everything else there is Toyota.
