TX PI 2800 stall torque converter!
05-24-17, 05:47 PM
#1
PI 2800 stall torque converter!
Decided to remove the Precision industries torque converter I had in my car for two years. It doesn't have any problems. The reason it came out was because my positive displacement supercharger needs a lower stall to create boost sooner. Its still purple in color and does not have any signs of overheating. its in the original box it came in. 500 shipped. I calculated shipping costs seems to run average of 50 dollars.
05-26-17, 12:05 PM
#5
i think the GS430 needs a 2400 stall to avoid the CEL but dont quoate me on it. there is a massive thread on this that i recall briefly reading when i was going to buy one. i think PI will adjust the stall for free for the original owner if you can get that arranged via Badblackgs if not though even having it restaklled would be cheaper than buying a new one. if i was still modifying my car i would have already bought this as it is indeed a steal
05-26-17, 03:42 PM
#6
i think the GS430 needs a 2400 stall to avoid the CEL but dont quoate me on it. there is a massive thread on this that i recall briefly reading when i was going to buy one. i think PI will adjust the stall for free for the original owner if you can get that arranged via Badblackgs if not though even having it restaklled would be cheaper than buying a new one. if i was still modifying my car i would have already bought this as it is indeed a steal
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05-26-17, 06:25 PM
#8
Part of me feels like i shouldn't respond to that statement, but the other half would love to break this down for you. My eaton M112 responds and begins to build boost when the engine is put under a load. sitting in the driveway with the car in neutral or park and revving the engine does not cause the boost actuator to drop and build boost. its only when the engine is loaded to a certain extent, the actuator than detects loss of vacuum to it and closes the bypass butterfly inside of the supercharger. That being said. Because my torque converter stalled at 2,800 rpms in addition to my 3:73 gear ratio rearend, the engine would only experience a load condition after the 2,800 stall point and the drivetrain would be more engaged so to say. It wasn't until a few weeks ago I really started paying attention to the relationship between my boost gauge and the rpm's and the amount of pedal I was applying and the tone of the engine. It became clear that normal acceleration with the rpms in the range of 2 to 3 thousand rpm's would be in the range of slippage with the torque converter but not to the point of loading the engine up. at that point, if I tipped into the throttle just a little bit more and put the rpm's up past 3 thousand, than the boost gauge would begin registering positive pressure. Or of course, if I was sitting at a redlight and stomped on the gas and stayed on it, than the boost gauge would respond accordingly and peg out instantly. So, because I'm an automotive technician with all certifications including L1 master certification status, I have access to a shop with all tools and lifts, I decided to just for the hell of it yank out the PI 2,800 converter and put my factory 1,800 converter back in. clear all the memory from the computer including transmission adapts, and then see what happens. Just as I suspected the boost would build much quicker. Powers of deduction would say that the boost now starts kicking in at 1,800 as oppose to the 2,800 it did prior. and the overall drive ability is is more to my liking now. no more 2 to 3 thousand rpm hovering when just cruising around normally. also i now get to benefit from lower transmission temps. because of the high stall nature of the PI converter. Yes, it doesn't rocket off the line like it used to, but all the small improvements I noticed from the lower stall outweighs the loss of g forces experienced from higher stalls. besides, the supercharger is now boosting one thousand rpm's sooner so it pulls stronger off the line. (mic drop).
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