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Final setup with the subs in a dual sealed enclosure. The amp and loc are wired behind it.
All the wires are set now! Just had to be careful placing the wires through the trunk liner when putting the liner back into the car.
All the wires pulled into the trunk cabin. I forgot to snap pictures of the remote bass control wire but I routed it through the driver side pass through and the driver side panels. This wire is running parallel on the driver side to the power cable.
Again, adequate lighting is essential for the smoothest installation.
I placed my ground cable under this anchor screw point. Scratched off the paint on the metal first and then screwed it down.
Then pull from the top.
Before removing the trunk liner around the ski hole, I had to unscrew these two screws up at the top.
Removing the trunk liner was easiest when starting from the bottom and pulling out.
In order to route the power cable I had to remove a few panels and some parts of the rubber seal for the doors. If you end up doing the same, here is a picture for reference on how the rubber seal (left) is hooked onto the plastic trim panel (right). They are held together by the metal hook in the middle.
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Tip: It made it easy to keep track of all my pins and screws by keeping them in a small container. At the end when placing things back together, you'll make sure you have every spot accounted for.
Back to the trunk, I found the easiest way to pull these pins off was to use a crowbar or the back side of a hammer. This works perfectly.
However, if you don't have a hammer handy or crow bar, these pins pull up pretty easy with two flat heads as well as shown above. This only gets tricky if the pins are deeper and harder to get leverage on.
This is the power cable coming from the rubber grommet. The cable is the dark line through the center of the screen if you can't tell. On a side note: lighting is extremely important for an easy install.
I placed the power cables into the bracket along the stock cable line running down the passenger side. The power cable was routed down the passenger side and up the rear passenger side panel through the firewall pass through into the trunk. No need to pull off the seats since you can access the trunk through the side panels.
Routing a 4 guage power cable through the grommet was actually more difficult than I originally thought. After a lot of time pushing and wiggling it through I finally got it. I had to remove some of the carpet in order to have more space to access the cable.
Routing the power cable in the engine bay. The cable was ziptied along other cables. The fuse is behind the black fuse box. This NVX 4 gauge cable is nylon braided on the battery terminal side (which is why I bought it).
A final picture of which two cables I tapped into. You can see the thick electric tape wrapped around them (red and white cable on top of one another). The numbering, I believe, goes right to left on the top row then shifts down and reads left to right. That's the only way the red cable is number 6 and the white is number 21. Just another way to double check yourself.
Soldering the number 21 (white) sub cable.
I tapped into the Number 6 (red) sub out cable. I ended up soldering and then wrapping with electric tape for the most secure connection.
Here is the T40 plug.
Black tab released!
In order to pull the T40 plug I needed to use a flat head to push under the black tab to release it.
These are the plugs on the Mark Levinson amp. The two plugs are the T49 (plug with remote wire) and T40 (plug with all the speaker out cables)
Picture after removing the tools on top of the factory amp.
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