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Recomendations on a tire brand for a 10" & 11" wheel?

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Old 06-26-14, 10:17 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sojah View Post
@YakG that setup looks nice, but hardly looks like a 255x30 on an 11" to me since those hankook v12's look only mildly stretched on that wheel.

i've never ran those tires before but may next time on account of how good it looks. got any more pics of that rear wheel from any different angles so i can see how much the lip is sticking out past the tire, thanks.

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Old 06-27-14, 03:06 PM   #17
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well when i need new rears for my 11's these will be the ones i order. thanks for the extra pics.

my front looks almost identical to that with my 20x9.5 on a 225x35x20 nitto 555 extreme but they don't make a 255.
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Old 06-27-14, 05:22 PM   #18
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The V12 Evo is discontinued and replaced with the V12 Evo 2 but I'm sure it will probably fit the same. The Falken FK452 is now replaced by the FK453. But for those still looking for the FK452 check out Ohtsu (owned by Falken) FP8000. Its the same tire as the FK452
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Old 07-05-14, 07:43 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by tungo View Post
225/35/20 Achilles ATR Sport on 20x10. Really would prefer not to do 225/30 because of the load index.

245/35/20 Achilles ATR Sport on 20x11

Thoughts?
Can anyone else chime in on those sizes? Just picked up a 20x10 20x11 setup and i'm probably gonna need a decent stretch in the rear. Test fit shows a rim poke of 5-10mm in the rear.
Fronts seems about flush.

Would like to keep it somewhat close to the sidewall height I have with my current 235/30 and 275/30 setup while making sure I have the proper clearence. Tucking slight tire all around but mostly in the front for a raked look.
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Old 07-06-14, 04:52 PM   #20
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we need to know or see how low you plan you go as well ^ ^ ^

5-10mm of poke when the rear fender lip is 3" above the rim shouldn't be a problem for driving and going over bumps but 5-10mm of poke when the rear fender lip is 1" or less and the tire may not be able to fully go inside the fender on bumps and when driving.

the wheels naturally go up and in which gives it that natural negative camber the lower it is but you need the tire to go up inside the wheel well in order to actually drive low successfully.

you may want to go with a 265x30 or a 255x30/35 but if you don't want a big stretch then i wold say a 265x30 which is what i am running on an 11" presently.
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Old 07-06-14, 05:23 PM   #21
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Here is how it sits with my current 20x8.5 +38 and 20x10+40 235/30 and 275/30 setup. About 1" fender to rim clearance in the front and 1.5" in the rear.


The new wheels are 20x10+25 and 20x11+28 Like I said I would like to keep the sidewall height relatively the same that way I don't have to readjust the coils. Thats why I was thinking just going with the 225/35 and 245/35. It'll be pretty stretched but I don't want to get too wide a tire and have it rub or have to run a lot of camber to fit them.
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Old 07-07-14, 04:31 PM   #22
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your present setup looks pretty nice. i haven't crunched the numbers comparing your present to new to see how much extra poke you will have, but that will be a decent stretch for sure.
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Old 07-16-14, 06:28 PM   #23
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Went with the 225/35 and 245/35 Nankang NS-20's. The 225/35 on the 10 mounted just fine and held air. The 245/35 on the 11 mounted fine but then began to lose air and debead when I took it for a test spin. Ended up having to run my old 275/30's on the rear. It has a baby stretch but I readjusted my rear coils and will probably just run that size in the rear when I need to replace them. Here's what the 245/35 looked like after a spin around the block.

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Old 07-17-14, 10:02 AM   #24
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Dat offset

That's the kinda stretch I need on my rears. But I've noticed the slightest bent lip will leak air.
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Old 07-18-14, 01:57 AM   #25
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what about a 255x35 or a 265x30 (which is what i run on an 11")
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Old 07-18-14, 07:09 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LexRuger View Post
Dat offset

That's the kinda stretch I need on my rears. But I've noticed the slightest bent lip will leak air.
lol it only looks like that because it was slightly jacked up. At normal ride height it only has a minimal rim poke.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sojah View Post
what about a 255x35 or a 265x30 (which is what i run on an 11")
I guess I could but I don't wanna have to adjust my ride height yet again to make up for the difference in sidewall height. The height is right where I want it now in the rear. Also the stretch wasn't really needed as bad as I thought.
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Old 07-19-14, 04:39 PM   #27
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hmmm, okay. how long does it take you to adjust your ride height? when i was doing mines regularly, the rears especially, on my previous LS430 only took me say 20 mins to adjust both.
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Old 07-20-14, 07:00 PM   #28
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It's just a hassle getting both sides dead even and I don't feel like getting an alignment every time I do it. I know it may not make a difference but to me if you adjust the height your throwing the alignment off.
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Old 07-20-14, 10:47 PM   #29
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if i adjusted it more than like 4 or 5 spins i would get an alignment but just 3 or 4 to dial it i wouldn't. and to get it dead even, i mean right now it is dead even right? so if you just count the same number of spins on both sides when you are turning the coilover it should still be even right? i just put a big dot on my coilover and count the rotations.
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