tungo

iTrader: (16)

I am building a custom 3 piece forged wheel for my GS F-Sport in 20x10 and 20x11 if possible, or 20x9.5 and 20x10.5 on a fender roll. Not really wanting to pull, shave, or hammer.

First time I'm doing it and I don't know where to look as all cars are different and can run different setups and all I've been doing is sending them pictures of what I want the stance to be like and it's different for them to grasp, since I don't know where to go. I don't want to tuck at all, not even sink in the tiniest bit. As flush as possible and stick maybe 5-10 mm past the fender. I'm not looking to do major body work and run an excessive amount of camber in order to get the wheels to fit. I've been informed that the 4GS is a mid to high-offset car. Not running air, as this car is my work car and I take clients around in it from time to time. Static drop on coilovers with 12K front and 12K rear spring rates and won't go very low. I have no idea what I want, which is why the company has halted until I figure out where I want to go. I want a semi-agressive setup and will run fairly narrow tires, but not a crazy stretch by any means. 235/35/20 in the front or 245/30/20 & 255/30/20 in the rear or 265/30/20.

I want the flush look with the tiniest bit of poke.

Similar to this G35, where the stance is on point:



Keep in mind that I just want this look. I will not be this low. If you're staring at the car directly from the front, you can see it poke just a bit in the front and rear. That's all I want, but that doesn't explain much.

MrExecutiv's LS460:



Don't want to do this as it's too much to make it fit:



Really lost here. Any help is appreciated. I already have a 20x10.5 vossen wheel with a high offset that I will test fit with a few spacers as well as a 19x11 +15 that I will test fit to see if I can run it.

dangtheheo

interested in your test fit results.

i've got a 4GS-F as well - and found that most people are running mild offsets (like .. 20x9+40 / 20x10+40 or something similar) when they're only doing slight fender rolls.

once i'm bagged, i plan on getting measured for wheels.

Mike1970

iTrader: (1)

thats a hard one. its hard to just pick the right offset what wheels comp are you going with? i know luxury abstract and vipmod will measure for you to make sure they get it right

sojah

iTrader: (1)

i measured my front and rear and then ordered specifically what i wanted. my rear now sits like that g35 in your first pic which is exactly what i planned.

how low you put your car will determine how wide you can safely run and how much 'natural' negative camber you will have. just remember you have to drive/steer the car so the fronts can't be hella flush without air for the average user and honestly you don't sound like a seasoned vet in this game,, yet.... but you have the right mindset.

the best thing to do is to test fit like you menitoned you have the wheels to do already, which is awesome. lower the car to the height you want, slap a 20 on if you want 20's, then measure how much more space you have before hitting the fender. then add the known offset to the amount of additional space needed to fill the gap. just run a slight stretch and you should be golden.

just remember you have to drive the car/turn. so you may have some rubbing issues like fender liner etc that you will have to remediate.

tungo

iTrader: (16)

Thanks Sojah for your input. I have decided to go with 20x9.5 and 20x10.5 ET18 and ET22. A tiny bit of poke to go along with some serious wheels!

Do you know what the offset will be if I went with 20x10 and 20x11 in order to achieve the same look?

sojah

iTrader: (1)

there is an online offset calculator at this site here: http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Wheel-Offset-Calculator

it is all about how much outer shiny lip you want. so if you did not change the amount of outer shiny lip in what you ordered compared to the .5" wider wheels you would want to make sure when you are inputing your numbers on the calculator that it says same outer position. does this make sense???

the front may be a tad aggressive if you lower the car down enough to where their is no gap between the tire and fender. i would definitely recommend a 225x35x20 (little stretch) on the front and roll the fenders at a minimum if not just shaving them altogether. the rear should be fine with a roll and something like 265x30x20 or even 245x35x20 which is a stretch.


i actually ordered something similar to your wheels offsets originally, then when i switched to a new car decided i could still go .5" wider outer lip in the rear so i sent the wheels back to the manufacturer and they replaced the outer lip with .5" wider. it was something like $300-$350 a lip/wheel so just keep this in mind as an option for down the road if you really love the wheels and later want to go more aggressive but don't feel like buying a whole new set. the wheels i have were over 1k$ a piece which is not that uncommon around these parts so in only having to pay 30% of that for a new wider more aggressive lip/setup is justifiable to me.

tungo

iTrader: (16)

Thanks for the info. I am going to stretch the tire. 225 on a 9.5 really isn't that bad. I want the double digit numbers. For some reason half an inch lower just really bothers me. I will be leaving a small gap between fender and tire and will be doing a roll and pull.

The wheels I'm doing are pretty expensive. $1500 MSRP plus custom finish and custom hardware and they're installing TPMS for me pushes it to nearly $2k a wheel.

jdmSW20

iTrader: (12)

i would say if you dont plan on being as low as some of the example cars, i would slightly less stretch then. because just being honest, when people have stretch but the car isnt lowered enough to match it looks dumb(i see this alot). or if you are going to baby stretch, dont pull as much so then it wont look sunken. you dont have to be slammed to have a nice aggressive look, but, you want as little gap as you can fit

mainly because you have some tough parameters. you dont want too much pull, not too much camber, and dont want to be low. it might be next to impossible to get the look you want. especially basing it off of the poke that G35 has or even that LS460. That G35 has alot of poke, but i try not to base stance from nissan based cars only because they can swallow up wheels and be far more aggressive vs a toyota based car

tungo

iTrader: (16)

I am going low, but not to the extent of tucking tire. One or two finger gap. I drove the car slammed for a few days with 25MM spacers on the front and back on my OEM wheels to get the springs to settle and there is no rubbing at all on the fender liner, except for when I hit one major dip. After the alignment with the toe set at 0 and running 2.5 degrees camber all around. Full lock and no rubbing. As of right now, preliminary offsets are 20x9.5 (ET18) and 20x11 (ET 28). This is going to change slightly if you guys have suggestions.

Here is my friends 18x10 wheel ET25 on a 245/40/18 tire on my car. Excuse the wheel gap. His wheels are tiny. With his setup, what would you guys recommend as far as offsets? I know it's hard to go on, based on the pictures.

sojah

iTrader: (1)

for the test fit above to be a perfect gauge you need to jack up one of the back wheels or roll over a brick or something so the wheel gets a little closer to the height level you want it at. because the lower the car sits the more natural negative camber there will be and it may look like it pokes out 5mm with the car high but when you lower it you may find that you still have 5-10mm of gap for it to sit flush.

sojah

iTrader: (1)

have you searched to see if those offsets you posted are in line with what others are running on your same car without having to shave or pull fronts and/or run a super stretched tire?

tungo

iTrader: (16)

I have searched and messaged a few people, but their offsets aren't too aggressive and the ones that I have asked haven't answered.

I think I am going to stick with my preliminary offsets. From calculating with my builder, the front wheels as well as the rear will poke about 15 mm past the fender, which is what I want.

Thanks for your input Sojah. 8 weeks and they will be here.

jdmSW20

iTrader: (12)

I would say if you dont want too much pull, camber, stretch...... i would say stick in the +30 offset range at about 9.5/10.5 or even 10/10.5 because that will still look perfect with little camber and still be able to go low enough to still look good.

one of my good friends here locally had those specs on his ISF(19x10/19x10.5) in the low 30's offset and it was perfect. or even the standard 9.5/10.5 +25 everyone does

tungo

iTrader: (16)

I had recommended offsets of 20x10 ET30 in the front and 20x11 ET37 in the rear for a flush look as another person had the same size and set of tires that I was going to go with originally. This is with only a roll and from looking at the wheels, they looked sunk in. I preferred not to go with this. I have a friend who is going to let me borrow his 20x10 wheels ET20 next week and I will finalize then. As of right now, I think the offsets that I have chosen fit in line with what I am looking to achieve.

sojah

iTrader: (1)

i have some experience and knowledge of the 3gs but not the 4gs. if it is truly an entire different chassis then i have no idea what fits and what doesn't.

i just know that for me, the front has to be sunk in some in order to actually drive the way i do, where i do. i do have air cups but i have my daily (no air) coilover height at about 3/4" inch of tire showing in the front and 1/2" of tire showing in the rear. i could go a half inch wider outer lip in the front which would sit flush but in order to turn and drive i choose not to. and my fronts are shaved with a slight pull on the drivers side. i have also hacked up my front fender liners to bits