Building wheels for 1st time....need assistance on offsets
#17
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (3)
I have been fitting wheels for years, for the likes of Kinesis and Fikse back in the mid 2000s. When it comes to fitting wheels, if you want the absolute perfect fit, you need to have everything(alignment and height) dialled in how you want it, car at ride height with any set of wheels (without tires)
If you want to run -8º camber, you set it to such.
From there you can take a lot of measurements and get your setup perfect the first time, without guessing. It's a lot of work but is worth it in the end if you want to get extreme with your fitments.
A simpler way is to just drive your car onto and alignment rack and get under the car and start taking measurements from the stock parts to the body and frame. Some basic Math against the stock wheels will put you in the ballpark, exceptionally close if you account for things like lip thickness and know how to properly measure wheels... Sadly, which a lot of people do not.
If you want to run -8º camber, you set it to such.
From there you can take a lot of measurements and get your setup perfect the first time, without guessing. It's a lot of work but is worth it in the end if you want to get extreme with your fitments.
A simpler way is to just drive your car onto and alignment rack and get under the car and start taking measurements from the stock parts to the body and frame. Some basic Math against the stock wheels will put you in the ballpark, exceptionally close if you account for things like lip thickness and know how to properly measure wheels... Sadly, which a lot of people do not.
#18
I threw a friends 19x11 ET11 with a 255/30/19 tire and it didn't poke as much as I anticipated. The drop on the car wasn't enough to add any camber or load, as my camber is around -1.8 degrees, and there was easily a 3" gap all around. With a short tire like that, the chassis would touch the floor if I wanted it to in order to get rid of the wheel gap.
My OEM 9" wheels with a 25mm spacer and 265/35/19 tire making the wheel +15 essentially is flush. I don't rub at all with 4 passengers in the car.
Therefore, I went with 20x10 ET18 front and 20x11 ET22 rear. Wheels should be done around June. The rears are rolled. Plan to run 245/30/20 and 255/30/20 Toyo Proxes 4.
Here is the ET11 19x11 wheel.
My OEM 9" wheels with a 25mm spacer and 265/35/19 tire making the wheel +15 essentially is flush. I don't rub at all with 4 passengers in the car.
Therefore, I went with 20x10 ET18 front and 20x11 ET22 rear. Wheels should be done around June. The rears are rolled. Plan to run 245/30/20 and 255/30/20 Toyo Proxes 4.
Here is the ET11 19x11 wheel.
#19
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is that with the car sitting on the ground and no lift from the jack?? if so that is a lot of poke.
and btw my toyo proxes 255x30x20 on a 20x10.5 sucked ***...
i presently have some cheap general exclaim 265x30x20 on a 20x11" and i love the fitment more than any other combo i've personally ran...
and btw my toyo proxes 255x30x20 on a 20x10.5 sucked ***...
i presently have some cheap general exclaim 265x30x20 on a 20x11" and i love the fitment more than any other combo i've personally ran...
#25
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i know this happens on most cars with air but just as an example my car sits at about 1/2" of visible tire (see page 1 for pics) in the rear and there is about 1mm of space between the rim lip and fender, so that when i drive over a bump and stop the rim lip sits completely tucked and do not hit the fender since there is about 1mm of space.
when i hit my switches and raise my car up about 2 inches the wheel/tire actually sits outside the fender about 1.5 inches and looks really poked like your picture you posted up with the test fitment. this is normal and just the way the suspensions were designed to travel (up and in). so basically if you don't run that low then your gonna poke like the pic above.
when i hit my switches and raise my car up about 2 inches the wheel/tire actually sits outside the fender about 1.5 inches and looks really poked like your picture you posted up with the test fitment. this is normal and just the way the suspensions were designed to travel (up and in). so basically if you don't run that low then your gonna poke like the pic above.
#26
I know what you mean. The picture I posted easily left about a 3" gap all around. There was no load to make the car camber in, so it looked completely straight and poked like an impala on daytons. Once the wheels arrive, I'm going to adjust the height. At the moment, the car is not very low. The rear is on the highest setting and front is only a quarter of the way down.
I should have clarified, I'm going low, but not to the extent that I will be tucking tire. Get rid of the wheel gap, similar to this look on my old TL.
My setup will look very similar to this, but not as aggressive:
I should have clarified, I'm going low, but not to the extent that I will be tucking tire. Get rid of the wheel gap, similar to this look on my old TL.
My setup will look very similar to this, but not as aggressive:
#28
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (6)
I know what you mean. The picture I posted easily left about a 3" gap all around. There was no load to make the car camber in, so it looked completely straight and poked like an impala on daytons. Once the wheels arrive, I'm going to adjust the height. At the moment, the car is not very low. The rear is on the highest setting and front is only a quarter of the way down.
I should have clarified, I'm going low, but not to the extent that I will be tucking tire. Get rid of the wheel gap, similar to this look on my old TL.
My setup will look very similar to this, but not as aggressive:
I should have clarified, I'm going low, but not to the extent that I will be tucking tire. Get rid of the wheel gap, similar to this look on my old TL.
My setup will look very similar to this, but not as aggressive:
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