1st gen system q
#1
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1st gen system q
i have a 94 gs300 and am going to put a sealed box with two RF HE2 12's. will this sound crappy? i mean will my trunk rattle? if it will, i may opt not to buy...
#3
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I have got 2 12" subs in a sealed box and it sounds fine, no rattling in my car or outside of my car. Soooo much better than all the other cars I have had, they all would rattle and soun dlike *****.
#4
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i have 2 12" Alpine Type R subs running at 2 ohms off a 1200 watt rms amp and it does rattle a bit but not as bad as honda's. our trunk isn't actually the thing rattling. its the bottom of the bumper and the rear quarter panels. also to improve cabin bass i highly suggest removing the stock sub. and if you are crazy like me you could remove the firewall which is behind the rear seats. its a big piece of metal 1 foot by 4 foot. it will increase your bass dramatically. it is just held on by 6 screws.
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Mcnelson or anyone else with a first generation GS. Any of you guys remember how you wired your antenna wire to go up and down with the radion on?? i forgot but i think when my brother was hooking up my system he said he couldn't do it because there was multiple antenna wires. any of you know how i gotta hook it up for it to work (wire color, ext)
#7
OK here goes...
If you have a car with a trunk and you place your woofers in your trunk, where is the bass? In your trunk! Unless you are going to drive around in your trunk, it doesn't do much good. You have to figure out a way to get the bass INSIDE the car. The problems standing in your way are...
#1...You own a luxury car that has been designed to keep noise OUT of the cabin.
#2...you have a steel firewall behind your rear seat (as John said)
#3...you have a gas tank behind that steel firewall
As was said, you don't own a Civic. You can't just throw a flea market box in the back and expect it to work.
2Lexos suggested replacing the factory woofer in a free-air application. This will work but you will either have to make a trim ring to hold a 10" woofer or cut the deck to fit a 12" woofer because the factory one is an odd size. However, judging by the equipment you have planned, this probably wouldn't do it for you.
The next thing you could try is figuring a way to vent the bass from the trunk to the cabin. The first and most obvious thing is to remove the factory sub. You could also cut alot of the deck metal away and recover the rear deck panel to allow the bass to encounter less resistance. You may want to think twice about removing that metal firewall behind your seat (John) because that protects the gas tank.
My last suggestion is the one I chose. Have a band-pass enclosure built to your car that vents directly into the cabin. This takes some time, but in my opinion has the best result. Build the box IN the car and built the port to vent through the factory sub location. I went with a fifth-order box, which basically means that the sub is completely enclosed on both sides of the woofer, one chamber in front and one in the rear. The rear chamber is ported directly through the rear deck and is the ONLY way for the subs output to go. I have ZERO rattles and I pressure 138 dbs legal (off the dash) in USACi Sound Q competition. I have always been a big fan of sealed boxes and I was worried about losing my mid-bass "punch." Those fears were unfounded and actually, your door speakers have factory ported enclosures and can take a 5 1/4" driver (I use MB Quart) that will crank out midbass like you wouldn't believe.
Good luck, let me know if I can offer any further assistance.
Todd
If you have a car with a trunk and you place your woofers in your trunk, where is the bass? In your trunk! Unless you are going to drive around in your trunk, it doesn't do much good. You have to figure out a way to get the bass INSIDE the car. The problems standing in your way are...
#1...You own a luxury car that has been designed to keep noise OUT of the cabin.
#2...you have a steel firewall behind your rear seat (as John said)
#3...you have a gas tank behind that steel firewall
As was said, you don't own a Civic. You can't just throw a flea market box in the back and expect it to work.
2Lexos suggested replacing the factory woofer in a free-air application. This will work but you will either have to make a trim ring to hold a 10" woofer or cut the deck to fit a 12" woofer because the factory one is an odd size. However, judging by the equipment you have planned, this probably wouldn't do it for you.
The next thing you could try is figuring a way to vent the bass from the trunk to the cabin. The first and most obvious thing is to remove the factory sub. You could also cut alot of the deck metal away and recover the rear deck panel to allow the bass to encounter less resistance. You may want to think twice about removing that metal firewall behind your seat (John) because that protects the gas tank.
My last suggestion is the one I chose. Have a band-pass enclosure built to your car that vents directly into the cabin. This takes some time, but in my opinion has the best result. Build the box IN the car and built the port to vent through the factory sub location. I went with a fifth-order box, which basically means that the sub is completely enclosed on both sides of the woofer, one chamber in front and one in the rear. The rear chamber is ported directly through the rear deck and is the ONLY way for the subs output to go. I have ZERO rattles and I pressure 138 dbs legal (off the dash) in USACi Sound Q competition. I have always been a big fan of sealed boxes and I was worried about losing my mid-bass "punch." Those fears were unfounded and actually, your door speakers have factory ported enclosures and can take a 5 1/4" driver (I use MB Quart) that will crank out midbass like you wouldn't believe.
Good luck, let me know if I can offer any further assistance.
Todd
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#8
As far as the antenna goes...I wired a switch in line with the antenna turn on lead. I VERY rarely listen to the radio and I don't like antennas sticking up, plus with the Veilside wing, it gets in the way when the trunk is open.
Just place a simple rocker two-way switch under your dash and when you listen to the radio, hit the switch and turn the antenna on.
Just place a simple rocker two-way switch under your dash and when you listen to the radio, hit the switch and turn the antenna on.
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