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HOW TO: Changing Brake Pads with pics

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Old 04-17-04, 10:00 PM   #1
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Default HOW TO: Changing Brake Pads with pics

Hi there, I had an awful sound coming from my left-rear wheel and I knew it was coming from the brakes. I planned on doing the rear brakes today, and my new digital camera arrived yesterday, so I thought, why not do a tutorial on changing brake pads.

In this, Ill show you exactly how to change your brake pads. Also, if you need an immediate fix (like me), do not be scared to use cheap autozone brake pads. I did, and they are great, solid, and absolutely quiet. Ok, here we go:

Step 0: Buy brake pads and brake lubricant (one pouch per axle), and remeber dont be scared to buy cheap $26.99 pads from a'zone. Also, if you wish, to prevent squeeling, you can shave the leading and trailing edge of all your brake pads down to a 45 degree angle.

Step 1: Chock your wheels, apply ebrake, break your lugnuts, jack up your Lex, finish removing lugnuts and remove wheel.

Step 2: There are two 14mm bolts on the backside of the caliper, remove those by turning them clockwise.
Click the image to open in full size.

Step 3: Now you can lift off the caliper and place it on some conveniently located thing. You will see two anti squeel clips on each brake, take those out. You are now free to pull out your old pads. Just simply pull on them and they will slide out with a little resistance.
Click the image to open in full size.

Hopefully, your brake pads will not look NEARLY as bad as mine

Step 4: Lube up the backside of the brakepads real nice. Then match up where the pads go and slide them into place, and put those clips back into place (or, if you are using new hardware, put in those new ones.)

Step 5: In order to make your caliper fit onto your new pads, you will have to force the piston back inside. Take some random piece of strong metal and place it ontop of the piston. Then grab your 3" C-clamp (you have your 3" C-clamp dont you!?!?!?) and tighten it up, but not to the point where you are forcing the piston back inside. Go pop your hood and take off your brake fluid resoiver and place some rags around the opening just in case fluid decides to come out (you prolly wont have to worry about this if you are only doing 1 or 2 brakes). Now, start turning the clamp and forcing the piston inside until it becomes flush with the rest of the caliper surface.
Click the image to open in full size.

Step 6: Remember where you removed those 14mm bolts? Go back there and push that inward so you can bolt up the calipers. Now just slide on the calipers and bolt them back up. My torque wrench was acting up so I just tightened with my socket wrench as tight as it would go (but not too tight)! I think its supposed to be 22 ft/lb of torque, so if you have a working torque wrench just do that.

Step 7: Bolt yo wheels back up and take her for a drive. BTW, the first time you push the brake, it will go all the way to the floor (this scared the hell out of me!!). But then, your brake system will build pressure and all will be fine.

Good luck to anyone doing this, this is a very easy procedure for anyone with some automotive experience. I would recommend getting all new brake hardware (shim kit) and getting your rotors turned. But since I am totally upgrading my brakes this summer, and since my rotors were in awesome condition, I did neither of these.

Good luck
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Old 04-17-04, 11:30 PM   #2
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Thank you so much. This is what CL is all about. I'm young like you and I know I could have figured it out, but a brake change is coming up and I haven't gotten around to checking out the set up yet. Pics and stuff like this are very valuable info. Thumbsup ( ) for this post.

On a side note, if anyone would like to see a thread with pics on how to take apart the center console/shifter area/climate control etc. let me know, it can be done soon (I know its easy enough but some people like pics more )

James
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Old 04-18-04, 12:52 AM   #3
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for future reference open the bleeder screw when you push the piston back in.

the dirt and crap is at the lowest point of the brake system (your calipers). when you push the piston back you're forcing the fluid back up to the MC and ABS actuator.

with this u don't have to worry about extra fluid shooting out of the MC.

don't forget to bleed your brakes after you're done.
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Old 04-18-04, 05:11 AM   #4
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/Aerostar\ gj! well done with pictures. thank you.
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Old 04-18-04, 06:50 AM   #5
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Thanks for the compliments, Im happy to do this for you guys. Mktbully, that is a good piece of advice. My brakes were recently bled and I did nothing to allow air into the system, so I skipped the brake bleeding process. But I would recommend doing that if they havent been bled lately.

Good luck


PS. In the last pic, notice how the brake pad is lubed up. Do that too ALL the brake pads
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Old 04-18-04, 10:17 AM   #6
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Good write up. One advice. Pump the brakes till you build up pressure in the system while in PARK, before you put the car in drive.

Ed
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Old 04-19-04, 09:49 PM   #7
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are those two 14mm bolts reverse thread?

how come you remove clockwise and not counter clockwise ???
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Old 04-19-04, 09:55 PM   #8
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They would be counter clockwise if you looked at it from the side the bolts are.

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Old 04-20-04, 08:31 AM   #9
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Yup, what he said
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Old 10-21-04, 09:06 PM   #10
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My experience linked just so you do not do the same as me

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/show...hreadid=137931
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Old 10-21-04, 09:36 PM   #11
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Awesome thread Aero! This will help me a great deal when it's time to change and bleed my brakes.
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Old 10-21-04, 09:50 PM   #12
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how come i dont see any caliper stickers???
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Old 10-21-04, 10:47 PM   #13
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Cadd, whenever you're ready.

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Old 10-22-04, 04:42 PM   #14
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Haha, I remember doing this a few months ago. And you're welcome, remeber if you need any help, feel free to ask. As for the caliper stickers, I was actually planning on doing them tomorrow I swear!!
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Old 10-22-04, 04:51 PM   #15
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Thanks for the write-up....
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