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07 GS350 Lowered - Instructions

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Old 03-18-17, 04:21 PM
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stktrdr2
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Cool 07 GS350 Lowered - Instructions

I have found Club Lexus and the information posted on the site very useful over the years. As such, I'm posting step by step instructions on how to dissemble and reinstall front and rear struts and coil springs to lower your GS 1.75" - 2”. These instructions can also be used for IS models. Follow these instructions verbatim and you can do the job with very little difficulty. During the course of performing the work on my GS350, I found the following differences that were not covered in the instructions I thought I’d pass on.

1. Page 8 of 17 – When removing Bolt (B) you’ll find two rigid plastic underbody guards that are in the way when removing the bolt assembly from the lower sway arms. To remove the bolts gently push each guard upward and slide the bolt out. The covers do need to be removed. Pushing the guard up applies to both the left and right side.
2. Page 8 of 17 - Bolt (A) is blocked by the exhaust pipe just upstream of the two mufflers on both sides of the axle. This bolt can be left tightened. With all other bolts removed, the lower sway arms will remain flexible enough to move up and down. A benefit to leaving lower sway arms in this position is that they will
support the weight of the strut assembly when removing the three upper strut assembly bolts located in the truck compartment. In this case, the strut and coil spring assembly will need to be raised out of position from the top section of the fender well. Just remove the bolts and screws securing the fender liners. The liners are flexible enough to fold over the strut assembly in order to raise it out of position. Installation of new strut / coil assemblies is reverse.


Notes:
1. IMPORTANT - After the driver's side strut assembly is replaced, r
emember to reinstall the AFS sensor in the correct position. Otherwise your AFS light will blink continuously on the instrument cluster.
2. Definitely use an impact wrench to remove the lower bolts. It makes the job much easier. I picked one up at Harbor Freight for $39.
3. Use an 18" socket pry bar. Make removing some of the bolts a breeze.

You might consider installing new rotors and brakes should that work be needed.
Hope this helps!
This is a side view of the GS after the job was completed.
Attached Files

Last edited by stktrdr2; 03-25-17 at 09:56 AM. Reason: Clarifications
Old 03-21-17, 07:52 PM
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tcr101
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Looks similar to my old gs430 but yours is black. My front might have been a tad bit lower, but might also be tire sizes. I assume your running the OEM tires from the 4gs.

You might rub on your fender lines (i had holes in both fronts, and my rears ripped off while driving on the freeway). If your as low as I was, you might want to look into a engine/tranny spacer kit (lifts your engine and tranny a 1/4 inch). Saved my oil pan from getting wrecked. I have a set for sale if your interested.
Old 03-25-17, 09:31 AM
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stktrdr2
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Angry Lowered GS350

Thanks for the comments and heads up on tranny spacers. I'm actually running non-OEM tires. Front set measure 245/35/19 Z rated; rear set are 275/30/19 Z rated. No fender contact. However, one major problem I'm experiencing is the ride isn't anywhere close to my expectations. Super bouncy when hitting bumps. Note: new front and rear struts were installed at time of coil springs installation. The rear springs are having a very difficult time supporting the weight of the rear end resulting in sagging by greater that 1.7" than the manufacturer stated when selling the springs. Manufacturer stated 1.7" in max drop, but after installation, the car dropped nearly 4" inches, resulting in a drastic height difference. The springs distributor is Manzo M2 Performance. I would very strongly recommend staying away from this brand. Cheap crap! When the car sits level, there are a total of 8 coils designed into the rear springs. When the car sits level the 4 upper coils on both sides are in direct contact with each other leaving the remaining 4 coils to support the weight. The manufacturer is stating that is normal, calling them "dead coils" and blame the struts? I've asked the manufacturer to email technical specs, but zero support. When calling Manzo M2 support it sort of resembles a couple of guys selling suspension products out of their apartment. The fact is the springs where shipped without any instructions, no warranty information, and no technical specs. When I pointed this out to them their response was "We try to save money on printing cost!" WTF! I mean why not post this information for customers on your website as downloadable PFDs??!!! Before removal and trashing them, I'm going to try and raise the overloaded coils using donut spacers. If that doesn't work, then I'm going back to my OEM coils. I'll repost with follow up.

Last edited by stktrdr2; 03-25-17 at 10:02 AM. Reason: Clarifications
Old 03-26-17, 10:53 AM
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tcr101
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Yea id stay away from Manzo M2 in general. I've heard lots of people had good experiences with Megan EZ streets / K sport. I personally used BC's with swifts and was extremely happy with the ride. Much firmer than stock, but I had them set pretty firm.

I assume your running staggered f-sports? 19x8 19x9?
Old 03-28-17, 06:01 AM
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stktrdr2
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Thanks for the tips! Yes, I'm running the staggered OEM F-Sport Rims. Nice fitment and still able to run wider tires all the way around. Been very pleased with these rims.
Old 03-28-17, 07:08 PM
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tcr101
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If you want a "flush" look in the back, i used a 20mm spacer and was running around -2.5 camber all around. Rolled fronts, cut rear fenders, with adjustable camber arms in the back.

If I was to do it again, I'd probably cut the front as well, but if your wheels hit, good bye fenders. The rolled fronts have a single spot where the a tab is and that uneven-ness always got me fuming.
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