Megan coilovers make my car go BANGBANG!!
06-28-12, 05:51 PM
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Megan coilovers make my car go BANGBANG!!
So i have a 06 3GS sitting on Megan coilovers LP 32way adjustable (nowhere near slammed).
Riding on 19inch wheels on stretched/35 profile tires.
If i go over a bump at literally 10-15mph, you hear very loud banging noises upfront. it basically feels like the coilovers arent absorbing and doing their job. i can literally hear lose parts in my glovebox feeling all the impact and its pretty painful when i go over small bumps and it feels like wheels just cracked into pieces from the impact.
I know this isnt normal and these are brand new coils - im suspecting that theyre not adjusted right. Anyone with coils want to give some advise on how to go about adjusting these?
I have tried to play with the preload (raise the rings just enough to where the spring cant move) but still samething. My damper settings are nowhere near the hardest neither.
Riding on 19inch wheels on stretched/35 profile tires.
If i go over a bump at literally 10-15mph, you hear very loud banging noises upfront. it basically feels like the coilovers arent absorbing and doing their job. i can literally hear lose parts in my glovebox feeling all the impact and its pretty painful when i go over small bumps and it feels like wheels just cracked into pieces from the impact.
I know this isnt normal and these are brand new coils - im suspecting that theyre not adjusted right. Anyone with coils want to give some advise on how to go about adjusting these?
I have tried to play with the preload (raise the rings just enough to where the spring cant move) but still samething. My damper settings are nowhere near the hardest neither.
06-29-12, 07:37 AM
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i don't need it to ride absolutely perfect - i jus need to eliminate the sound that it makes. the car is set pretty soft at the moment. i'm thinking of just bagging this thing :/
06-30-12, 09:17 AM
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Its the upper control arm hitting against the shock tower. Very common in 3GS, from my understanding you can either cut a hole in the shock tower or get RCAs to lower the arms. I have the same issue with my car, sounds horrible :/
07-01-12, 10:48 AM
#6
07-01-12, 06:41 PM
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when you lower the car, the upper "A" arm sits close to the top of the fender well...it will then bottom out on bumps and dips..You can set the preload higher, to give the suspension less room to travel, but it will create a harsher ride.
This is very common on alot of different lexus vehicles. Some people cut holes, some people modify the knuckle...some just raise their car up.
This is very common on alot of different lexus vehicles. Some people cut holes, some people modify the knuckle...some just raise their car up.
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thanks guys...ill probably preload the springs...any recommendations on how much i should preload the front with my stance?
07-10-12, 03:19 AM
#9
i wouldnt preload anymore than 3mm. you'll decrease the life of the shock not to mention the ride will be a lot rougher. i say just get some RCA's and raise the car back up a bit. If you get 20mm RCAs and raise the suspension up 20mm, you'll still sit at the same spot.
07-13-12, 03:34 AM
#11
Can someone explain what is the point of lowering the car so low that you cannt even drive it properly??
Is it to impress others at owners expense? Or do people run SCCA events on daily basis with those setups?
Just curious.
Is it to impress others at owners expense? Or do people run SCCA events on daily basis with those setups?
Just curious.
07-16-12, 03:34 PM
#12
just throwing out some ideas here, i'm having the same problem with my GS. if i had the resources to do this, i would be working on this. anyone thought of making a front knuckle/spindle that is shorter than the stock one to create more clearance between the upper control arm and the wheel well?
now only if i can find someone that is AWESOME at welding aluminum...
now only if i can find someone that is AWESOME at welding aluminum...
08-01-12, 10:59 AM
#13
If it's hiting that hard you should be able to jack up the car, remove the wheel, and see exactly where it's hitting. RCA's wont change the action of the upper control arm. The spindle is attached to the UCA via the ball joint. The RCA goes between the steering knuckle / LCA assembly and the spindle. When the spindle goes up 20mm the UCA has to go with it. RCA's IMO are good for a slight drop closing the gap and not having to get into changing the springs or getting that extra drop for an adjustable set up ( air/ hydro's ) but not for stance cars. I agree with everyone else though, the car is too low. You can keep it like that but you're gonna have to mod it some more for a comfortable ride.
