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So what is the purpose of this "washer/plate"? Lexus calls it "PLATE, REAR DISC BRAKE CALIPER, NO.1" 47795A.
was putting my calipers back on and noticed one was missing. I didn't know they came off and one must have before I painted. Would it be bad to just remove the other (so the caliper isn't crooked) and put back on or should I get a new one? Car has been on jack stands for 2 weeks and I really don't want to wait until Tuesday for the dealer to get me the part. All I have left is this caliper and then bleed the system.
Doesn't matter any more, looks like the internal slide pin is seized up so ill likely have to buy a new caliper and it will come with new plates....fml
Those things aren't 100% necessary. But as you said, since you've got to get a new caliper anyways, it should come with new ones anyways. If they don't, it'll be fine.
Yeah that what I figured and talked to a good friend who has been a mechanic for 30-40 years and runs a shop in L.A. and he confirmed. I was putting it on this morning(last none I needed) and couldn't get the pads in. Was gonna take it apart and clean it but my mini sledge couldn't budge it so I figure its best to just get a new one. And I won't worry so much about those little washers
Yeah that what I figured and talked to a good friend who has been a mechanic for 30-40 years and runs a shop in L.A. and he confirmed. I was putting it on this morning(last none I needed) and couldn't get the pads in. Was gonna take it apart and clean it but my mini sledge couldn't budge it so I figure its best to just get a new one. And I won't worry so much about those little washers
I've had mine stick a few times over the years and have always been able to free them, heat was always needed though. Apply a touch of heat with a torch to the blind pin area and wiggle it up and down as you whack it with a dead blow hammer. Start slow with the heat and keep it away from the piston, sometimes just a little bit will be enough to free it. Then clean it with a wire brush, grease them real good and make sure the rubber boots are in good shape. I just got to where I check and regrease mine every 6 months or so now.
I've had mine stick a few times over the years and have always been able to free them, heat was always needed though. Apply a touch of heat with a torch to the blind pin area and wiggle it up and down as you whack it with a dead blow hammer. Start slow with the heat and keep it away from the piston, sometimes just a little bit will be enough to free it. Then clean it with a wire brush, grease them real good and make sure the rubber boots are in good shape. I just got to where I check and regrease mine every 6 months or so now.
My friend and I applied so much heat to the caliper in an attempt to free my frozen caliper that is burnt the brake piston dust boot. And even then, the caliper did not free up. LOL!
This was officially the first and only item I've never been able to free with heat and a 5lb BFH. Oh, and PB Blaster too might I add.
My friend and I applied so much heat to the caliper in an attempt to free my frozen caliper that is burnt the brake piston dust boot. And even then, the caliper did not free up. LOL!
This was officially the first and only item I've never been able to free with heat and a 5lb BFH. Oh, and PB Blaster too might I add.
And this is why I ordered 2 new calipers today lol. Mechanic buddy drove it into my head that things like this should always be replaced in pairs lol. Good thing I sold my quad last weekend
^This is always best. In my case I had one 100% frozen caliper and the other was 80% frozen. I felt more comfortable replacing with new OEM calipers for the peace of mind.
Last edited by Gville350; 11-17-16 at 06:01 PM.
Reason: typo
Just remember to re-grease them every now and then. The design didn't change so it's likely to happen again over time and it only takes like 20 minutes to do.
Just remember to re-grease them every now and then. The design didn't change so it's likely to happen again over time and it only takes like 20 minutes to do.
According to this post they did change the design(I know thats a GS but the part number for calipers is the same)....but they still sieze up sometimes. Mine were the old design with the small threads, the new calipers have the larger thread on that pin. But I'm definitely planning on checking them at least once a year. In AZ I doubt they will corrode up quick, the car was from back east as of 3 years ago so I'm guessing that didn't help.
The new calipers were painted this week and bolted up this morning. Buddy is on his way over to help me bleed/flush the system, then I can finally drive my car after 3 weeks on jack stand! YAY!
11-12-16, 04:52 PM
Brake Guru neded, rear caliper plate?
