I can't get on top of my suspension
#16
Advanced
iTrader: (1)
just for reference does anyone have mileage intervals for our suspension parts? i cant find a definite answer searching. how often should LBJs be changed, LCA, UCA bushings tie rods, steering rack, and sway parts? im really thinking about holding on to this car now which (im hoping) will last another 100k-150k with best maintenance practices.
I don't think there's any mileage intervals for the suspension, too many variables like ride height, driving style, road conditions, temperatures, etc. The ball joints are the sketchy ones, but for $50 and a hour or two of your time it's worth it to do it every year or two imo.
I don't think there's any mileage intervals for the suspension, too many variables like ride height, driving style, road conditions, temperatures, etc. The ball joints are the sketchy ones, but for $50 and a hour or two of your time it's worth it to do it every year or two imo.
#17
Driver
Thread Starter
understandable, ill start doing replacement on those by date and not mileage thanks! off chance you know the fluid change intervals on the tranny?
also, i just got my poly-U steering rack bushings and the two smaller ones aren't split like in the DIY on CL. can i just jam them through the hole or should i try and cut them? the metal sleeve comes out obviously, but the rubber is just one piece each. ill be doing this this weekend
also, i just got my poly-U steering rack bushings and the two smaller ones aren't split like in the DIY on CL. can i just jam them through the hole or should i try and cut them? the metal sleeve comes out obviously, but the rubber is just one piece each. ill be doing this this weekend
#18
Advanced
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by GS3KID
understandable, ill start doing replacement on those by date and not mileage thanks! off chance you know the fluid change intervals on the tranny?
also, i just got my poly-U steering rack bushings and the two smaller ones aren't split like in the DIY on CL. can i just jam them through the hole or should i try and cut them? the metal sleeve comes out obviously, but the rubber is just one piece each. ill be doing this this weekend
also, i just got my poly-U steering rack bushings and the two smaller ones aren't split like in the DIY on CL. can i just jam them through the hole or should i try and cut them? the metal sleeve comes out obviously, but the rubber is just one piece each. ill be doing this this weekend
As far as the steering rack bushings go, I can't speak on that. I have the figs version which are split and were easy to install. It might be a pain in the butt being that yours are one piece. I wouldn't just cut them though. What brand are they? I'm sure someone on here has installed one piece bushings. Good luck
#19
Driver
Thread Starter
theyre made by Ricochet, they seem like good material but like i said kinda weird theyre solid but OEM bushings are one piece too so idk.
i was going to get the PSB bushings that are also poly but i hear they don't last long.
ive tried searching ricochet on here, only mentioned a few times.
i was going to get the PSB bushings that are also poly but i hear they don't last long.
ive tried searching ricochet on here, only mentioned a few times.
#20
Driver
Thread Starter
NEVERMIND JUST FOUND THE ANSWER: i was coming through all 40 pages of the dIY finally found my answer now im excited to get these puppies in!
Did you leave the passenger side unbolted and pull the entire rack down a little? Make sure the both wheels are off the ground. I don't think you can move the rack down if you are on 2 ramps.
I drove up on 2 ramps and then jacked the car up off the ramps and put stands on each side. I used a stubby screw driver and knocked it out with a regular hammer. Was not hard at all.
BTW guys I used a brand called Richocet sold on Ebay. I think they are better quality than Daizen at 75% the price and of course a HELL OF ALOT BETTER customer service getting them within a few day from Cali to Boston.No waiting month with no response and then getting a refund
thru Paypal.
They make bushing for several cars like Porsche, Bmw etc. They are a blend of Polyurathane and Kevlar and felt very hard vs oem rubber . The bushing metal cylinders are nicely machine shaped and the cylinder bushings are 1 piece like oem vs 2 split pieces. I believe 1 piece would have better stability. Almost all my front end parts are new ( Moog tierods, ball joints, sway links and poly sway bushings) so everthing was tight. I felt a signifigant difference in stability and my old rubber bushings weren't in bad condition.
Just sayin, avoid the potential drama from buying from you know where and get em. The Monopoly is OVER!!
Did you leave the passenger side unbolted and pull the entire rack down a little? Make sure the both wheels are off the ground. I don't think you can move the rack down if you are on 2 ramps.
I drove up on 2 ramps and then jacked the car up off the ramps and put stands on each side. I used a stubby screw driver and knocked it out with a regular hammer. Was not hard at all.
BTW guys I used a brand called Richocet sold on Ebay. I think they are better quality than Daizen at 75% the price and of course a HELL OF ALOT BETTER customer service getting them within a few day from Cali to Boston.No waiting month with no response and then getting a refund
thru Paypal.
They make bushing for several cars like Porsche, Bmw etc. They are a blend of Polyurathane and Kevlar and felt very hard vs oem rubber . The bushing metal cylinders are nicely machine shaped and the cylinder bushings are 1 piece like oem vs 2 split pieces. I believe 1 piece would have better stability. Almost all my front end parts are new ( Moog tierods, ball joints, sway links and poly sway bushings) so everthing was tight. I felt a signifigant difference in stability and my old rubber bushings weren't in bad condition.
Just sayin, avoid the potential drama from buying from you know where and get em. The Monopoly is OVER!!
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