Brake fluid pressure flush
03-24-16, 08:31 AM
#1
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Brake fluid pressure flush
I'm putting this out here for future searches just in case someone can use it.
After replacing my seized up rear calipers on my 2008 IS350 I needed to bleed them. I had a Motive Power Bleeder (PN 101) that I used on my Ford F350 once and wanted to try it on my IS.
The Ford and Lexus/Toyota master brake cylinder caps are obviously different. The Ford is a plastic, screw on type but the Lexus is a simple, rubber push on type. To do my IS I purchased the following:
- Power Probe BA10 Small Adapter for Toyota
- Pressure Bleeder Hose Coupler Adapter
Together they are a bit spendy but I believe worth the expense since you should be able to use these on a lot of different vehicles.
To mate these parts to the Motive Power Bleeder I removed the short tube between the brass NPT fittings and the standard Ford pressure cap and installed a smaller diameter clear hose on the brass barbed NPT fitting of the Motive unit and the barbed end of the "Pressure Bleeder Hose Coupler Adapter".
Installing the BA10 on the master cylinder was extremely easy and never once did it leak down any pressure. I filled the Motive bottle up with a full bottle of DOT4 and then pumped it up to about 10psi. I then bled the passenger rear caliper first until there were no more air bubbles, tightened it up and then gave the Motive a few more pumps to keep it at 10psi and did the drivers side rear. Easy peasy. No muss, no fuss.
When I have more time and it's nicer out I'll do a proper full flush on all lines.
There are also speed bleeders for bleeding your brakes but I have seen these fail over the years and so I won't be using them just because of the "what if" scenario.
EDIT: I wanted to add something. These types of pressure bleeders do add air (not air bubbles) to the brake fluid because there is no separation of the air from the fluid. Therefore in any Racing or Aircraft situation I would never recommend these types of bleeders. Not even vacuum bleeders. The much more expensive pressure bleeders do separate the air from the fluid. But, and this is only my opinion, I believe that using these cheaper pressure bleeders are fine on any consumer vehicle so long as you change out your fluid at recommended intervals and not every 100,000 miles.
After replacing my seized up rear calipers on my 2008 IS350 I needed to bleed them. I had a Motive Power Bleeder (PN 101) that I used on my Ford F350 once and wanted to try it on my IS.
The Ford and Lexus/Toyota master brake cylinder caps are obviously different. The Ford is a plastic, screw on type but the Lexus is a simple, rubber push on type. To do my IS I purchased the following:
- Power Probe BA10 Small Adapter for Toyota
- Pressure Bleeder Hose Coupler Adapter
Together they are a bit spendy but I believe worth the expense since you should be able to use these on a lot of different vehicles.
To mate these parts to the Motive Power Bleeder I removed the short tube between the brass NPT fittings and the standard Ford pressure cap and installed a smaller diameter clear hose on the brass barbed NPT fitting of the Motive unit and the barbed end of the "Pressure Bleeder Hose Coupler Adapter".
Installing the BA10 on the master cylinder was extremely easy and never once did it leak down any pressure. I filled the Motive bottle up with a full bottle of DOT4 and then pumped it up to about 10psi. I then bled the passenger rear caliper first until there were no more air bubbles, tightened it up and then gave the Motive a few more pumps to keep it at 10psi and did the drivers side rear. Easy peasy. No muss, no fuss.
When I have more time and it's nicer out I'll do a proper full flush on all lines.
There are also speed bleeders for bleeding your brakes but I have seen these fail over the years and so I won't be using them just because of the "what if" scenario.
EDIT: I wanted to add something. These types of pressure bleeders do add air (not air bubbles) to the brake fluid because there is no separation of the air from the fluid. Therefore in any Racing or Aircraft situation I would never recommend these types of bleeders. Not even vacuum bleeders. The much more expensive pressure bleeders do separate the air from the fluid. But, and this is only my opinion, I believe that using these cheaper pressure bleeders are fine on any consumer vehicle so long as you change out your fluid at recommended intervals and not every 100,000 miles.
Last edited by Soledad; 03-26-16 at 06:48 AM.
03-24-16, 04:12 PM
#2
^Nice "write-up"! Been considering the exact same setup actually instead of paying my friend at his garage to do it. $30 is cheap for the job, but I like owning the tool that does the job vs paying someone to do it when I have the knowledge and ability.
I agree with those speed bleeders; I'd past as well, but for some they can be useful I guess.
I agree with those speed bleeders; I'd past as well, but for some they can be useful I guess.
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