Grinding noise when turn steering wheel left
04-05-16, 03:19 PM
#16
Lexus Champion
if you can get the entire hub with the bearing installed for a decent price, that will save you a lot of time, swapping hubs is super easy, especially in the front. if the other side feels fine and there's no wobble then only do one side. the bearing on my car were replaced only 60k miles ago and only one went bad, so i replaced that one and no issues yet. it just depends on how well they're installed, sometimes they're not done correctly.
the loose steering could be tie rods or the bushings. best way to check that is have someone hold the steering wheel stiff, or lock it and then lift up the front of the car and see if you can wiggle the wheels side to side in the same direction that they turn, so hands at 9 and 3 oclock and just wiggle the wheel. also if you can wiggle the outer tie rod with your hand with medium pressure then it needs to be replaced. that ball joint is supposed to be pretty stiff.
bushings you can't really test without taking the old ones out, it's pretty hard to move the rack side to side by hand, i say do the bushings anyways, they're only like 20 bucks on ebay for some whitelines.
the loose steering could be tie rods or the bushings. best way to check that is have someone hold the steering wheel stiff, or lock it and then lift up the front of the car and see if you can wiggle the wheels side to side in the same direction that they turn, so hands at 9 and 3 oclock and just wiggle the wheel. also if you can wiggle the outer tie rod with your hand with medium pressure then it needs to be replaced. that ball joint is supposed to be pretty stiff.
bushings you can't really test without taking the old ones out, it's pretty hard to move the rack side to side by hand, i say do the bushings anyways, they're only like 20 bucks on ebay for some whitelines.
04-20-16, 08:50 AM
#17
Rookie
Thread Starter
OldManTan,
I don't think anyone supplies the bearing installed in the hub -- I contacted the dealership and they only sell the bearings that have to be pressed into the hub. They don't sell a hub with the bearing already installed but I was able to get a hub and a bearing for $42 so I bought it. I figure it is easier than removing a bearing and having to press it into the hub plus I can deal with pressing in the bearing before removing the original hub so once it has been pressed swapping out hubs should be easy.
I have seen some tips about pressing in the bearing such as placing the bearing in a freezer or fridge overnight so that the metal contracts slightly and that should make pressing it into the hub much easier. I am not sure that will work but I am willing to give it a try. I have found a shop that will press in the bearing for $60 so I figure either way I only have to deal with swapping out the hub assembly. I will post the results once I have finished the job. I will follow your suggestion and replace those rack bushings at the same time.
I don't think anyone supplies the bearing installed in the hub -- I contacted the dealership and they only sell the bearings that have to be pressed into the hub. They don't sell a hub with the bearing already installed but I was able to get a hub and a bearing for $42 so I bought it. I figure it is easier than removing a bearing and having to press it into the hub plus I can deal with pressing in the bearing before removing the original hub so once it has been pressed swapping out hubs should be easy.
I have seen some tips about pressing in the bearing such as placing the bearing in a freezer or fridge overnight so that the metal contracts slightly and that should make pressing it into the hub much easier. I am not sure that will work but I am willing to give it a try. I have found a shop that will press in the bearing for $60 so I figure either way I only have to deal with swapping out the hub assembly. I will post the results once I have finished the job. I will follow your suggestion and replace those rack bushings at the same time.
04-27-16, 04:36 PM
#18
Rookie
Thread Starter
OldMAanTan,
I can't believe this but last Friday (April 22, 2016) I took the car to the Lexus dealership to have them do a complete inspection so I could find out everything that is wrong with the car. I got an estimate of over $8,000 of parts & labor that need to be done to the car. Nothing about the suspension which was my biggest concern. Well, the service tech who looked at the car had to leave so another tech looked it over and said forget about all that other stuff the only problems you have to worry about are the LCA because they are shot and that is probably what is causing the grinding noise.
He believes the bushings are trashed and rubbing against the subframe causing the grinding noise. He looked at the LCAs and said the ball joints are fine so I only really need to change out the bushings. He said the LCAs are the problem with the loose steering along with the wobbly feel when driving. Additionally, he said I have multiple oil leaks in the engine compartment (i.e, valve cover gaskets, etc.) and I am losing steering fluid from somewhere. I went back the next day and got the estimate on the LCAs -- over $2,500 to replace them if I so desire to let them do the work.
They did not charge me for the estimate now that is the most amazing part of it all. So I do not have to tackle that axle nut which had me concerned since I do not have an impact drill to work with -- only my own old broken down arms and shoulders to generate torque. So I am currently trying to find OEM rubber bushings for less than $350 because I just do not want to put the polyurethane ones on the car if I decide to just replace the bushings.
I can't believe this but last Friday (April 22, 2016) I took the car to the Lexus dealership to have them do a complete inspection so I could find out everything that is wrong with the car. I got an estimate of over $8,000 of parts & labor that need to be done to the car. Nothing about the suspension which was my biggest concern. Well, the service tech who looked at the car had to leave so another tech looked it over and said forget about all that other stuff the only problems you have to worry about are the LCA because they are shot and that is probably what is causing the grinding noise.
He believes the bushings are trashed and rubbing against the subframe causing the grinding noise. He looked at the LCAs and said the ball joints are fine so I only really need to change out the bushings. He said the LCAs are the problem with the loose steering along with the wobbly feel when driving. Additionally, he said I have multiple oil leaks in the engine compartment (i.e, valve cover gaskets, etc.) and I am losing steering fluid from somewhere. I went back the next day and got the estimate on the LCAs -- over $2,500 to replace them if I so desire to let them do the work.
They did not charge me for the estimate now that is the most amazing part of it all. So I do not have to tackle that axle nut which had me concerned since I do not have an impact drill to work with -- only my own old broken down arms and shoulders to generate torque. So I am currently trying to find OEM rubber bushings for less than $350 because I just do not want to put the polyurethane ones on the car if I decide to just replace the bushings.
04-28-16, 08:09 AM
#19
Lexus Champion
why not just go with the poly bushings? they're dirt cheap, forget OEM, they'll feel a hundred times better trust me. can you get a video of the noise? i've never heard LCAs make noise which is why i'm confused. when i think of grinding noise while driving and turning it's most likely rotational, but it seems that yours is different.
04-28-16, 05:25 PM
#20
Rookie
Thread Starter
OldManTan,
I was looking at the rubber because I was hearing that the polyurethane bushing make a lot of noise. I was told by the service tech that the OEM rubber bushings are much better if I can find them. I know whichever way I go unless there is a major problem with the bushings it is likely the last of the repair being done to the LCA for the life of the car. I have seen LCAs at $400 each for OEM which only makes sense if I am considering the rubber OEM bushings at nearly $350 for 2 sets.
I will try to get an audio that can be uploaded so you can hear the noise coming from the car. That is probably a good idea so you can hear what I am hearing. I do not think the service tech was trying to steer me to the dealership doing the work because he was telling me to just replace the bushings and that they would have to replace the entire LCA. He even told me what to do in replacing the Valve Cover Gaskets so I believe he was at least being sincere in his recommendations.
So, now I have good news and bad news -- the good news is I was able to get an audio recording of the noise the bad news is that I nearly trashed my Samsung Galaxy Tablet in the process. I was holding it with the door partially open to get a better sound recording and when I made that last left turn the door closed on my hand knocking the tablet onto the concrete pavement. Fortunately, the tablet cover took most of the beating and the cover is now completely trashed but at least I have that recording. LOL.
I was looking at the rubber because I was hearing that the polyurethane bushing make a lot of noise. I was told by the service tech that the OEM rubber bushings are much better if I can find them. I know whichever way I go unless there is a major problem with the bushings it is likely the last of the repair being done to the LCA for the life of the car. I have seen LCAs at $400 each for OEM which only makes sense if I am considering the rubber OEM bushings at nearly $350 for 2 sets.
I will try to get an audio that can be uploaded so you can hear the noise coming from the car. That is probably a good idea so you can hear what I am hearing. I do not think the service tech was trying to steer me to the dealership doing the work because he was telling me to just replace the bushings and that they would have to replace the entire LCA. He even told me what to do in replacing the Valve Cover Gaskets so I believe he was at least being sincere in his recommendations.
So, now I have good news and bad news -- the good news is I was able to get an audio recording of the noise the bad news is that I nearly trashed my Samsung Galaxy Tablet in the process. I was holding it with the door partially open to get a better sound recording and when I made that last left turn the door closed on my hand knocking the tablet onto the concrete pavement. Fortunately, the tablet cover took most of the beating and the cover is now completely trashed but at least I have that recording. LOL.
04-29-16, 08:26 AM
#21
Lexus Champion
that's an absolutely stupid price for bushings, you can get entire supra control arms brand new for that much, whatever though it's your money.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Prothane-Lex...5SLgjJ&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Prothane-Lex...5SLgjJ&vxp=mtr
04-29-16, 11:00 AM
#22
Rookie
Thread Starter
OldManTan,
Trust me I do not think that price makes sense but that is the lowest price I have seen for rubber bushings. Believe me I have seen Lexus LCAs for right at $800 so paying nearly half that price for bushings is not an easy pill to swallow --- that is why I have not bought them. I am hoping to find something much cheaper for OEM since I would have thought there would not be a big demand for the OEMs.
I had not seen that listing on ebay for the complete set of polyurethane bushings so that definitely makes it harder to spend that much money on OEMs. I have not seen the supra LCAs at the price you are mentioning but I have seen a used set for about $350. I told that to the service tech -- I figured they may make sense since I could replace the ball joint in those too.
If I bought the used supra LCAs I was just going to replace all of the bushings immediately as well as the ball joint -- that would still be much cheaper than new Lexus LCAs. However, the service tech warned me to make sure the alignment settings were the same as the supra or I could have problems with getting the correct alignment. So that kind of scared me away from pursuing that option.
Believe me I cannot afford to spend hundreds of dollars on bushings or LCAs -- I am trying to be as patients as possible but this is my only car -- either I will have to make a decision soon or my car will make it for me. Do you have any experience with the polyurethane bushings? I would love to be able to get bushings at that lower cost especially since I need to replace the valve cover gasket. Also, what about polyurethane on the sway bar bushings -- if I am going to do the LCAs I would think it wouldn't hurt to replace the sway bar too right?
Trust me I do not think that price makes sense but that is the lowest price I have seen for rubber bushings. Believe me I have seen Lexus LCAs for right at $800 so paying nearly half that price for bushings is not an easy pill to swallow --- that is why I have not bought them. I am hoping to find something much cheaper for OEM since I would have thought there would not be a big demand for the OEMs.
I had not seen that listing on ebay for the complete set of polyurethane bushings so that definitely makes it harder to spend that much money on OEMs. I have not seen the supra LCAs at the price you are mentioning but I have seen a used set for about $350. I told that to the service tech -- I figured they may make sense since I could replace the ball joint in those too.
If I bought the used supra LCAs I was just going to replace all of the bushings immediately as well as the ball joint -- that would still be much cheaper than new Lexus LCAs. However, the service tech warned me to make sure the alignment settings were the same as the supra or I could have problems with getting the correct alignment. So that kind of scared me away from pursuing that option.
Believe me I cannot afford to spend hundreds of dollars on bushings or LCAs -- I am trying to be as patients as possible but this is my only car -- either I will have to make a decision soon or my car will make it for me. Do you have any experience with the polyurethane bushings? I would love to be able to get bushings at that lower cost especially since I need to replace the valve cover gasket. Also, what about polyurethane on the sway bar bushings -- if I am going to do the LCAs I would think it wouldn't hurt to replace the sway bar too right?
05-02-16, 07:24 AM
#23
Lexus Champion
holy crap now we know your mechanic is playing you. Supra LCAs and SC LCAs are absoltuely identical except the bushings. also ball joints are non serviceable on both, because they're identical. only difference between supra LCAs and SC is the bushings. SC has hollow ones with small rubber supports so the ride is softer, Supra has solid rubber bushings. i have poly bushings in all of my control arms and it's great. they last longer, they ride better, but they squeak if you don't grease them but who the hell cares.
do poly bushings, if your ball joints are fine then you don't need entire LCAs. can you get a video of someone outside the car or something to film the wheel as you turn? or put a gopro underneath or something? or duct tape your phone to the wheel well, that audio you uploaded was just a bunch of noise.
just get poly bushings and stop worrying, it's such a simple task, search for DIY threads on here, you can do it in by yourself if you have a couple wrenches and a jack.
do poly bushings, if your ball joints are fine then you don't need entire LCAs. can you get a video of someone outside the car or something to film the wheel as you turn? or put a gopro underneath or something? or duct tape your phone to the wheel well, that audio you uploaded was just a bunch of noise.
just get poly bushings and stop worrying, it's such a simple task, search for DIY threads on here, you can do it in by yourself if you have a couple wrenches and a jack.
05-03-16, 03:12 PM
#24
Rookie
Thread Starter
OldManTan,
On the original audio that I sent to you from 33 sec until 1:09 sec I was turning in a left circle so you can hear the noise during that period on the audio. At 1:18 on the audio when I was making the last left turn I dropped the tablet onto the concrete and that is the remaining static noise you hear -- the tablet sliding on the concrete. So the best audio is between 33 secs and 1:09 sec.
I am attaching another audio that I hope is a little clearer and the grinding noise occurs at various points on that new audio -- at 15 sec until 21 sec, 25 sec until 31 sec, (then I tried to adjust the tablet so you hear static noise), 1:27 sec until 1:31sec, 2:33 sec until 2:38 sec, and finally at 3:01 sec until 3:07 sec. I was in a parking garage so that is why there are various left turn points and the initial beeping you hear is a radar detector that I turned off after it alerted.
On the original audio that I sent to you from 33 sec until 1:09 sec I was turning in a left circle so you can hear the noise during that period on the audio. At 1:18 on the audio when I was making the last left turn I dropped the tablet onto the concrete and that is the remaining static noise you hear -- the tablet sliding on the concrete. So the best audio is between 33 secs and 1:09 sec.
I am attaching another audio that I hope is a little clearer and the grinding noise occurs at various points on that new audio -- at 15 sec until 21 sec, 25 sec until 31 sec, (then I tried to adjust the tablet so you hear static noise), 1:27 sec until 1:31sec, 2:33 sec until 2:38 sec, and finally at 3:01 sec until 3:07 sec. I was in a parking garage so that is why there are various left turn points and the initial beeping you hear is a radar detector that I turned off after it alerted.
05-05-16, 08:39 AM
#25
Rookie
Thread Starter
OldManTan,
I was just about to order that set of poly bushings but the listing says it will only fit up to the 1996 SC300 -- it does say it will fit Supra's for 1997 &1998 -- why the cutoff at 1996?
I was just about to order that set of poly bushings but the listing says it will only fit up to the 1996 SC300 -- it does say it will fit Supra's for 1997 &1998 -- why the cutoff at 1996?
05-06-16, 11:25 AM
#27
Rookie
Thread Starter
Yes, I have a 97. I ordered the problem solver kit off ebay the compatibility chart shows a cutoff at 96 too but the listing said 91-2000 so I contacted them. Their reply was these should fit perfectly and it was the last set available. The link for the ones I ordered is below:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321383569594?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I called a couple of the sellers of the link you sent me and they each said they would not fit a 97 so I am not confident the ones I ordered will actually fit because the people I spoke to said there was no kit for the 97+. I guess I will find out the truth once these things arrive.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321383569594?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I called a couple of the sellers of the link you sent me and they each said they would not fit a 97 so I am not confident the ones I ordered will actually fit because the people I spoke to said there was no kit for the 97+. I guess I will find out the truth once these things arrive.
05-06-16, 03:16 PM
#29
Rookie
Thread Starter
OK. That is exactly what one of the people I spoke with said that it won't fit because the body style changed that year. I appreciate their being very careful but I surely could have used that extra $6 - $7 on the Valve Cover Gaskets that I still have to order.
05-12-16, 09:01 PM
#30
Rookie
Thread Starter
OldManTan,
Well I received the bushings on Monday and I started to install them on yesterday. I started with the right LCA because I knew that was the worse. I had a problem with getting the ball joint loosened from the knuckle but I finally got that removed. One of the OEM bushings was totally destroyed -- there was no rubber left only the insert so that explains the grinding noise.
I ended up having to burn the other bushing out of the LCA because the ball joint press kit I rented was absolutely no use. I cleaned out the LCA where the OEM bushings were installed thoroughly and was about to install the Problem Solver Bushings -- then uh oh problem. The PSB bushings require that I remove the outer metal cover that were on the OEM bushings. I had to use a hacksaw to cut that metal out of the LCA -- I didn't want to do it but this is my only car and I already had the right LCA off the car.
I was able to cleanly remove the cover that does not have the mushroom top on it with the hacksaw but the other cover is causing me a problem -- mainly because to saw through the other cover there is more metal. The hacksaw's teeth are toast at this point so I will need to get more blades. I would have been finished but for this extra step to install these bushings. My advice is to stay away from these bushings at all costs -- they require lots of extra work on an already tedious job in my opinion.
Gonna get some more hacksaw blades since I know I will need them for the left LCA -- now that I know I will have to cut those covers off I will not have to waste time cleaning all that burnt rubber out of the LCA. At least that will save some time but I definitely wish I had bought the Prothane's and taken my chance on them no fitting since I have altered my LCA permanently by removing those covers.
Well I received the bushings on Monday and I started to install them on yesterday. I started with the right LCA because I knew that was the worse. I had a problem with getting the ball joint loosened from the knuckle but I finally got that removed. One of the OEM bushings was totally destroyed -- there was no rubber left only the insert so that explains the grinding noise.
I ended up having to burn the other bushing out of the LCA because the ball joint press kit I rented was absolutely no use. I cleaned out the LCA where the OEM bushings were installed thoroughly and was about to install the Problem Solver Bushings -- then uh oh problem. The PSB bushings require that I remove the outer metal cover that were on the OEM bushings. I had to use a hacksaw to cut that metal out of the LCA -- I didn't want to do it but this is my only car and I already had the right LCA off the car.
I was able to cleanly remove the cover that does not have the mushroom top on it with the hacksaw but the other cover is causing me a problem -- mainly because to saw through the other cover there is more metal. The hacksaw's teeth are toast at this point so I will need to get more blades. I would have been finished but for this extra step to install these bushings. My advice is to stay away from these bushings at all costs -- they require lots of extra work on an already tedious job in my opinion.
Gonna get some more hacksaw blades since I know I will need them for the left LCA -- now that I know I will have to cut those covers off I will not have to waste time cleaning all that burnt rubber out of the LCA. At least that will save some time but I definitely wish I had bought the Prothane's and taken my chance on them no fitting since I have altered my LCA permanently by removing those covers.