Inexpensive fix to body roll - Daizen polyurethane sway bushings
02-09-06, 09:23 AM
#33
Pole Position
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Chicago 'burbs
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You've seen where auto shops lift your car? Use those locations. If you're concerned your jack stands will harm the undercarrriage, put a thick towel between the jack & the chassis...don't forget a couple nice pieces of wood in front of the front tires 
02-09-06, 09:48 AM
#34
Lexus Test Driver
for the rear, i've always seen them use the jack points but those points are very flimsy to put jack stands on. they will probably bend. trying to find an alternative to those points.
02-09-06, 01:07 PM
#36
[QUOTE=PHML]Chu -
The most notable improvement is when making turns....I feel more planted to the ground now.....alot less body roll.....especially during hard or quick turns. Dont get me wrong....there's still a slight body roll....thats due to the flexing of the stock sway bar.....but for $30 vs. $500....it was an easy decision.
As for install...it did it myself. If you have a jack, a philips screwdriver, and a ratchet set......you can do it yourself. It took me about 1.5 hours.
Pete
BTW....this is the link to the Daizen website on the bushings.
http://www.daizen-sporttuning.com/[/QUOTE
Once again, you are the man Pete. Great write up. Im going to order these now.
The most notable improvement is when making turns....I feel more planted to the ground now.....alot less body roll.....especially during hard or quick turns. Dont get me wrong....there's still a slight body roll....thats due to the flexing of the stock sway bar.....but for $30 vs. $500....it was an easy decision.
As for install...it did it myself. If you have a jack, a philips screwdriver, and a ratchet set......you can do it yourself. It took me about 1.5 hours.
Pete
BTW....this is the link to the Daizen website on the bushings.
http://www.daizen-sporttuning.com/[/QUOTE
Once again, you are the man Pete. Great write up. Im going to order these now.
02-09-06, 01:17 PM
#37
Originally Posted by SeattleGS400
Daizen Polyurethane Sway Bar Bushing Installation
Total time: 2 hours total.
Tools required: 10mm and 12mm socket, torque wrench, large screwdriver, jack stands and jack, rubber gloves (to keep your fingers clean), wheel lug wrench (21mm socket?)
FRONT SWAY BUSHING INSTALLATION
Jack up the front of the car. Remove the plastic underbody cover (1 main piece—about 7 bolts) and 1 left and 1 right plastic underbody/wheel well cover (2 bolts each). Pics will come later to help clarify, as I’m on a trip.
Remove the mounting bolts (2 per side) on the left and right sway bar mounting brackets. FYI, you do NOT need to remove the sway bar end links bolts to the front suspension arm. After the brackets come off (exposing the OEM rubber bushings), the sway bar will swing down due to gravity. Just slide out the OEM bushings (there is a slit in the front of the bushing to allow this). Prep the large Daizen polyurethane bushing by first spreading the bushing open to loosen it up a bit (only 1 end is cut open so that you can do this). Next, with 7/8 whole tube of grease—apply the supplied heavy grease all over the inside of the bushing evenly (this is where it’s helpful have a plastic glove to wear). Open up the bushing and slide the bushing onto the sway bar. Repeat for the other side.
Apply some grease onto the inside of the mounting brackets. Put the mounting brackets back on and tighten the bolts 21 ft-lbs. Replace the plastic underbody covers. Remove the jack stands.
REAR SWAY BUSHING INSTALLATION
Loosen the lug nuts of the rear tires. Jack up the rear of the car and remove all of the lugs and the rear tires. Remove the mounting bolts (2 per side) to the left and right mounting brackets to the rear sway bar (do NOT remove the rear end link bolts, however). The rear sway bar will swing down due to gravity. Slide out the rear OEM rubber bushings. Prep the small Daizen polyurethane bushing by first spreading it open using a large flathead screwdriver (put it in flat, then spin the screwdriver to give leverage to spread open the bushing at a few points—you MUST do this or you will not be able to get it open). Next, with ½ a tube of grease, apply the supplied heavy grease all over the inside of the rear polyurethane bushing. Open up the bushing with the screwdriver, and while its held open with the screwdriver, slide it onto the rear sway bar. Repeat for the other side.
Rotate the bushing so that the polygonal part is on the top. Apply some grease onto the inside of the mounting brackets. Put the mounting brackets back on and tighten the bolts 13 ft-lbs. Reinstall the wheels (76 ft-lbs), and remove the jack stands. Retorque the rear wheels.
MISC. INSTALLATION NOTES
An alignment with this modification is absolutely not required, or even necessary. The sway bar is secured onto the chassis by 2 mounting brackets, and the bar can slide a little bit to the left and right of the car, depending on the sway bar's current state of twist and steering wheel angle position. Removing and reinstalling the sway bar mounting brackets does not affect the alignment whatsover.
Rubber vs. Polyurethane Background Info: OEM rubber bushings have some cushioning before the sway bars twist, but the hard polyurethane makes the sway bars twist right away. As the OEM sway bars twist rather easily, having the OEM rubber bushings just makes the ride that much softer. Upgrading to the polyurethane bushings just takes out one softness factor into it, and contributes to better cornering handling with the OEM sway bars.
Daizen Polyurethane Sway Bushing Driving Impressions: Compared to OEM, these Daizen polyurethane bushings are a nice improvement—but nowhere near what a full aftermarket sway bar set would do with a stiffer bar. I would say that the Daizen polyurethane bushings give about 20-30% improvement over stock corner handling (Tom from TM Engineering has mentioned to me the same thing).
There is 20-30% less sway around corners than OEM, but the car does still sway. With the Daizen bushings, when you hit some bumps on corners, it oscillates left-to-right less and feels a bit more “composed.” The straight freeway ride is a bit more “planted” as well (due to less floaty side-to-side oscillation). There is no ride penalty, and no undue harshness from this upgrade. So far, there are no noise issues from this install, nor do I anticipate any (lots of heavy grease inside the threaded bushing openings, which help retain the grease) and the exterior of the bushings are coated with a slick surface.
Summary: Without hesitation, if you are still running the OEM sway bars with OEM rubber bushings and are not planning on spending big money on TRD sway bars or the Daizen sway bar set, buy this $30 Daizen polyurethane sway bushing upgrade set. This is an easy install, requires very minimal tools, and does not require a follow-up alignment. There is no impact on ride quality, and you will get 20-30% better corner handling than what the OEM rubber sway bushings offer. You can not go wrong with this inexpensive upgrade.
Total time: 2 hours total.
Tools required: 10mm and 12mm socket, torque wrench, large screwdriver, jack stands and jack, rubber gloves (to keep your fingers clean), wheel lug wrench (21mm socket?)
FRONT SWAY BUSHING INSTALLATION
Jack up the front of the car. Remove the plastic underbody cover (1 main piece—about 7 bolts) and 1 left and 1 right plastic underbody/wheel well cover (2 bolts each). Pics will come later to help clarify, as I’m on a trip.
Remove the mounting bolts (2 per side) on the left and right sway bar mounting brackets. FYI, you do NOT need to remove the sway bar end links bolts to the front suspension arm. After the brackets come off (exposing the OEM rubber bushings), the sway bar will swing down due to gravity. Just slide out the OEM bushings (there is a slit in the front of the bushing to allow this). Prep the large Daizen polyurethane bushing by first spreading the bushing open to loosen it up a bit (only 1 end is cut open so that you can do this). Next, with 7/8 whole tube of grease—apply the supplied heavy grease all over the inside of the bushing evenly (this is where it’s helpful have a plastic glove to wear). Open up the bushing and slide the bushing onto the sway bar. Repeat for the other side.
Apply some grease onto the inside of the mounting brackets. Put the mounting brackets back on and tighten the bolts 21 ft-lbs. Replace the plastic underbody covers. Remove the jack stands.
REAR SWAY BUSHING INSTALLATION
Loosen the lug nuts of the rear tires. Jack up the rear of the car and remove all of the lugs and the rear tires. Remove the mounting bolts (2 per side) to the left and right mounting brackets to the rear sway bar (do NOT remove the rear end link bolts, however). The rear sway bar will swing down due to gravity. Slide out the rear OEM rubber bushings. Prep the small Daizen polyurethane bushing by first spreading it open using a large flathead screwdriver (put it in flat, then spin the screwdriver to give leverage to spread open the bushing at a few points—you MUST do this or you will not be able to get it open). Next, with ½ a tube of grease, apply the supplied heavy grease all over the inside of the rear polyurethane bushing. Open up the bushing with the screwdriver, and while its held open with the screwdriver, slide it onto the rear sway bar. Repeat for the other side.
Rotate the bushing so that the polygonal part is on the top. Apply some grease onto the inside of the mounting brackets. Put the mounting brackets back on and tighten the bolts 13 ft-lbs. Reinstall the wheels (76 ft-lbs), and remove the jack stands. Retorque the rear wheels.
MISC. INSTALLATION NOTES
An alignment with this modification is absolutely not required, or even necessary. The sway bar is secured onto the chassis by 2 mounting brackets, and the bar can slide a little bit to the left and right of the car, depending on the sway bar's current state of twist and steering wheel angle position. Removing and reinstalling the sway bar mounting brackets does not affect the alignment whatsover.
Rubber vs. Polyurethane Background Info: OEM rubber bushings have some cushioning before the sway bars twist, but the hard polyurethane makes the sway bars twist right away. As the OEM sway bars twist rather easily, having the OEM rubber bushings just makes the ride that much softer. Upgrading to the polyurethane bushings just takes out one softness factor into it, and contributes to better cornering handling with the OEM sway bars.
Daizen Polyurethane Sway Bushing Driving Impressions: Compared to OEM, these Daizen polyurethane bushings are a nice improvement—but nowhere near what a full aftermarket sway bar set would do with a stiffer bar. I would say that the Daizen polyurethane bushings give about 20-30% improvement over stock corner handling (Tom from TM Engineering has mentioned to me the same thing).
There is 20-30% less sway around corners than OEM, but the car does still sway. With the Daizen bushings, when you hit some bumps on corners, it oscillates left-to-right less and feels a bit more “composed.” The straight freeway ride is a bit more “planted” as well (due to less floaty side-to-side oscillation). There is no ride penalty, and no undue harshness from this upgrade. So far, there are no noise issues from this install, nor do I anticipate any (lots of heavy grease inside the threaded bushing openings, which help retain the grease) and the exterior of the bushings are coated with a slick surface.
Summary: Without hesitation, if you are still running the OEM sway bars with OEM rubber bushings and are not planning on spending big money on TRD sway bars or the Daizen sway bar set, buy this $30 Daizen polyurethane sway bushing upgrade set. This is an easy install, requires very minimal tools, and does not require a follow-up alignment. There is no impact on ride quality, and you will get 20-30% better corner handling than what the OEM rubber sway bushings offer. You can not go wrong with this inexpensive upgrade.
02-10-06, 05:21 AM
#38
Lexus Test Driver
My box arrived yesterday from Sewell and they sent me the Control Arm bushings instead. I was planning on doing this mod also but the bushings are for a 98-00 GS. I guess it waits another week. I think we're getting snow this weekend anyway... 
02-10-06, 06:12 AM
#39
Racer
Originally Posted by SeattleGS400
Daizen Polyurethane Sway Bar Bushing Installation Total time: 2 hours total.
Mine arrived this week and got added to my Spring maintenance list, which continues to grow:
Rotate tires
Fix exhaust 'bend'
Update transmission fluid
Check/replace brake pads
Inspect/replace brake fluid
Install stainless brake lines
Inspect ball joints
Replace sway bushings
Re-torque suspension bolts
Clean engine air filter
Examine/clean/repair blower motor
Replace cabin air filter
Re-torque seat bolts
Replace wipers
Check tire pressure
Wash, touch-up, swirl remove, wax on, wax off
02-10-06, 07:48 AM
#40
Lexus Fanatic
Originally Posted by DASHOCKER
Do you have the stock suspension? Just curious how much of improvement there would be with coilovers.
02-20-06, 04:33 PM
#43
Lexus Test Driver
Thank GOD for the 3 hour DIY
My son naps from 12:30 to 3:30 so I usually try to time my work for that slot. So far replace brake rotors, paint calipers, replace brake lines, and now sway bar bushings have all been done from pulling into the garage to taking her for a test drive in just about 3 hours. I will say that I didn't grease the u shaped mounting bracket and I didn't remove the wheels when I did the install either so I will let you know if either of those prove harmful (and welcome any comments on why those are necessary). I just drove around the neighborhood after the install trying to feel for the improvement I was sure was there. The most noticible difference is the effort it takes to move the wheel. It seems that the car wants to go straight more than before, a little more effort to start the turn. I'll report after further testing in different driving scenarios.
02-21-06, 06:38 AM
#44
Lexus Test Driver
took some twisties and on / off ramps on the way to work this morning and SeattleGS400's description of the change is dead on. Well worth a couple bucks and a couple hours.
