IS350 Brake Pad Question
01-27-15, 07:36 AM
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IS350 Brake Pad Question
Hey guys I just hit 35k miles and I remember last month my brakes squeaked a little while backing out but it did rain pretty heavy that week. It doesn't squeak anymore and I drive 90% of the time on the hwy for commute and I don't apply my breaks that heavily.
When do you guys usually get your brake pads (front and back) replaced? Should I get an inspection at an independent shop or the dealership? Same goes for the oil change. Thanks!
When do you guys usually get your brake pads (front and back) replaced? Should I get an inspection at an independent shop or the dealership? Same goes for the oil change. Thanks!
Last edited by eplugplay; 01-27-15 at 08:26 AM.
01-27-15, 09:54 AM
#3
Brake squeaked when backing out especially after a rain is totally normal. I have just replaced all rotors and pads on both cars a week ago or so. When I back out this morning (yesterday was raining in CA), it still squeak very loud too but then it is all quiet once again when i start driving forward.
I do my brakes outside of dealership. Inspecting it is very simple, a flashlight and keen eyes can easily spot check how bad the brake pads is. Also, the indepedent shop can lift your car up and inspect and actually measure and advice whether or not to change it.
If you do change it, I recommend Akebono ceramic brake pads! They produce less dust, better linear braking control, and less noise.
I do my brakes outside of dealership. Inspecting it is very simple, a flashlight and keen eyes can easily spot check how bad the brake pads is. Also, the indepedent shop can lift your car up and inspect and actually measure and advice whether or not to change it.
If you do change it, I recommend Akebono ceramic brake pads! They produce less dust, better linear braking control, and less noise.
01-27-15, 07:42 PM
#4
My brakes started to squeak a little bit, but it still have 4mm of pad left, that's after 30,000 miles with almost all city driving -- I'm very good at conserving brake pads 
The new pads are 8mm thick I think. You don't need to replace it until it's 1mm, so you can get someone to check the thickness. I imagine most dealerships will check your brake pad thickness for free when you get oil changes.
The new pads are 8mm thick I think. You don't need to replace it until it's 1mm, so you can get someone to check the thickness. I imagine most dealerships will check your brake pad thickness for free when you get oil changes.
01-28-15, 06:02 AM
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Did you take your tires off to check the pad? I booked an appointment at brake check (its gotten good reviews from yelp at least this location) for saturday morning at 7:30am.
I guess I'll get the free inspection and see what they say. I defnintely won't get new rotors (I read many people say you can go through 3-4 pads before rotors need to be replaced) and when I do apply my brakes most of the time I don't hear a squeaking noise althought last night I did hear a slight squeak going in low speeds in the inner city.
I'm usually very good at matching my speed and acceleration that I don't ever apply that much pressure to my brakes when braking. 90% of the time I gently tap on my brakes from a distance so that I don't have to and I remember on my civic going well over 70k miles until having to replace my brakes.
If anything I'd at least get an oil change from there, has anyone been to brake check to get new brakes and an oil change?
I guess I'll get the free inspection and see what they say. I defnintely won't get new rotors (I read many people say you can go through 3-4 pads before rotors need to be replaced) and when I do apply my brakes most of the time I don't hear a squeaking noise althought last night I did hear a slight squeak going in low speeds in the inner city.
I'm usually very good at matching my speed and acceleration that I don't ever apply that much pressure to my brakes when braking. 90% of the time I gently tap on my brakes from a distance so that I don't have to and I remember on my civic going well over 70k miles until having to replace my brakes.
If anything I'd at least get an oil change from there, has anyone been to brake check to get new brakes and an oil change?
Last edited by eplugplay; 01-28-15 at 06:10 AM.
01-28-15, 09:18 AM
#6
I usually do oil change at 5k interval so I usually wait till I need the oil change and inspect brake and if needed, I replace the pads all at the same times. I usually replace my brake pads and rotors earlier than usual because hey, it is safety feature and I won't risk on it. I recently change my IS250 pads at 38k miles and the pads still have some more miles to go though. I drove very aggressively everyday and the car has been through multiple autocross where I push it all the way to the limit. I'm very impressed how the OEM brake hold up really.
01-31-15, 06:36 AM
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Hey guys im at brake check and I just went ahead and doing the job as the oil change but I have a question about "brake hardware." They recommended me to replace the brake hardware and slapped on 100 bucks more but I googled and did my research and while some people recommend replacing it with new pads they say mostly you can reuse them. Also he recommended me to get the rotors cut (Im guessing resurfaced?). There were dust particles wedged into the rotors.
The price seems a bit high like I could get this done at lexus for the same price. The total came up to $450 thats with the synthetic oil change 5w-30 and all 4 rotors cut and new pads. Is this a decent deal? I went ahead and did it as I travel alot and might as well do it since im here on a saturday morning. I just want to know for future reference. Thanks!
Any suggestions will help thanks!
The price seems a bit high like I could get this done at lexus for the same price. The total came up to $450 thats with the synthetic oil change 5w-30 and all 4 rotors cut and new pads. Is this a decent deal? I went ahead and did it as I travel alot and might as well do it since im here on a saturday morning. I just want to know for future reference. Thanks!
Any suggestions will help thanks!
Last edited by eplugplay; 01-31-15 at 06:42 AM.
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02-01-15, 09:33 AM
#8
So you had the service performed already. You're just now wondering if you got hosed or not? LOL! Meh, its not horrible; but since I always DIY that sort of thing, it is high for me.
Over time the brake hardware does become more brittle, worn, and tolerances become greater (not good); it is recommended to be replaced. At 100k, I'll be replacing all of mine with some Akebono ceramic pads. I'll be measuring rotors at that time to see what I've got left too.
Over time the brake hardware does become more brittle, worn, and tolerances become greater (not good); it is recommended to be replaced. At 100k, I'll be replacing all of mine with some Akebono ceramic pads. I'll be measuring rotors at that time to see what I've got left too.
02-02-15, 09:52 AM
#9
If i brake it down for this maintenance, it would cost me like:
1. Synthetic Oil Change--$65 ($40 Mobil 1 on sale price, $25 labor)
2. Brake pads for both front and rear: $250 ($100 parts + $150 labor)
Total for me in your case would have been $315 but this is without re-surfacing rotors (re-surface should not needed) and re-use brake hardware (shouldn't need new hardware). Therefore, your price for the parts/service performed are fair.
I would suggest the followings:
1. Go with Akebono ceramic brake pads because they perform, IMO, better than OEM: less dust, linear braking force, and less noise. They also comes with pre-shims so you don't need to pay for OEM shims which cost as much as brake pads.
2. My mechanic suggests not to re-surface rotors because one it makes the rotors thinner and two why not save a bit more money to buy the new rotors next time. In my experience, my rotors have never been re-surfaced and over many years, I have no problem whatover.
3. I re-use the brake hardware without any problem on both my cars.
1. Synthetic Oil Change--$65 ($40 Mobil 1 on sale price, $25 labor)
2. Brake pads for both front and rear: $250 ($100 parts + $150 labor)
Total for me in your case would have been $315 but this is without re-surfacing rotors (re-surface should not needed) and re-use brake hardware (shouldn't need new hardware). Therefore, your price for the parts/service performed are fair.
I would suggest the followings:
1. Go with Akebono ceramic brake pads because they perform, IMO, better than OEM: less dust, linear braking force, and less noise. They also comes with pre-shims so you don't need to pay for OEM shims which cost as much as brake pads.
2. My mechanic suggests not to re-surface rotors because one it makes the rotors thinner and two why not save a bit more money to buy the new rotors next time. In my experience, my rotors have never been re-surfaced and over many years, I have no problem whatover.
3. I re-use the brake hardware without any problem on both my cars.
02-03-15, 07:37 AM
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If i brake it down for this maintenance, it would cost me like:
1. Synthetic Oil Change--$65 ($40 Mobil 1 on sale price, $25 labor)
2. Brake pads for both front and rear: $250 ($100 parts + $150 labor)
Total for me in your case would have been $315 but this is without re-surfacing rotors (re-surface should not needed) and re-use brake hardware (shouldn't need new hardware). Therefore, your price for the parts/service performed are fair.
I would suggest the followings:
1. Go with Akebono ceramic brake pads because they perform, IMO, better than OEM: less dust, linear braking force, and less noise. They also comes with pre-shims so you don't need to pay for OEM shims which cost as much as brake pads.
2. My mechanic suggests not to re-surface rotors because one it makes the rotors thinner and two why not save a bit more money to buy the new rotors next time. In my experience, my rotors have never been re-surfaced and over many years, I have no problem whatover.
3. I re-use the brake hardware without any problem on both my cars.
1. Synthetic Oil Change--$65 ($40 Mobil 1 on sale price, $25 labor)
2. Brake pads for both front and rear: $250 ($100 parts + $150 labor)
Total for me in your case would have been $315 but this is without re-surfacing rotors (re-surface should not needed) and re-use brake hardware (shouldn't need new hardware). Therefore, your price for the parts/service performed are fair.
I would suggest the followings:
1. Go with Akebono ceramic brake pads because they perform, IMO, better than OEM: less dust, linear braking force, and less noise. They also comes with pre-shims so you don't need to pay for OEM shims which cost as much as brake pads.
2. My mechanic suggests not to re-surface rotors because one it makes the rotors thinner and two why not save a bit more money to buy the new rotors next time. In my experience, my rotors have never been re-surfaced and over many years, I have no problem whatover.
3. I re-use the brake hardware without any problem on both my cars.
They even printed out the thickness of the rotors before I came in and after its been cut and how many times it could be done. He said the rears have to be replaced the next time but the fronts can be cut one more time. Honestly after he showed me how much pad was left I could have probably drove another 10k miles before having the work done. It looked like I still had just a bit more than 3mm of pad left but after having them replaced and I looking at it new, the new pads are much thicker maybe around 11mm (fronts) and the back looked not as thick as the fronts. I got new pads at 35k miles and I honestly thought I could have gone to 45k before even considering it. But now I know so I will monitor my pads when I hit 80k and probably get them replaced around 85k lol.
Originally they added new hardware for $100 but I went back and told them I'd rather just reuse my hardware as long as it isnt damaged. One question is when do you need new hardware + calipers? Maybe next time I wont get my rotors resurfaced? The only reason I did was because he showed me dust particles that got embedded into the rotors, is this not a big deal?
But I will continue to go here as my new oil change/ brake pads place as I was satisfied. Thanks guys!
Last edited by eplugplay; 02-03-15 at 07:42 AM.
02-03-15, 09:47 AM
#11
@eplugplay, it is always better and safer to replace the brake pads earlier so you did the right thing. If it is too late, it is also too late to save your and other people life. I replaced all my pads at 37k miles few weeks ago and still have some thickness on the pads to go for another 6k miles or so. Note that I autocross my cars multiple times a year too so the pads are gone faster than other folks.
Regarding the hardware, you shouldn't need new one unless they are broken or heavily rusted. I know mine have lasted several years and still work fine.
Regarding the calipers, they usually last a very very very long time. This is not a wear and tear item so there is no mileage of replacement like you do with the pads. You should only replace them when they are not working. It is usually "stuck" calipers and you can tell it from the symptom of one pad wear out way sooner than another pad on the same caliper. My 2 rear calipers on IS350 2006 got this problem. The way to prevent this problem is everytime you replace your pads, remind your mechanic to add some grease to lube the caliper pistons. The pistons got stuck because of dried out/no lubrication.
Regarding re-surfacing the rotors, there are usually two schools of thought. There is actually no absolutely right or wrong answer. I personally don't think there are sands being embedded onto it because if so you will have small lumps on the surface everywhere. Also, the pads will sweep literally everything out on the rotor surface in no time. For example, after you wash your car or after the rain, I will guarantee you that you will see some rust on the rotor surface due to temporary oxidation. Once you start driving your car for a few miles and come back, all the rust will be swept away by the pads because rotors/pads work together as a friction mechanism to transform rotational motions into heat. In another words, the rotors act as a heat sink to dissipate heat so when you re-surface the rotors, you are removing some mass from that rotors which reduce heat dissipation and worse it make the rotor metallic structure weaker. Alright enough for all the theory haha, in my actual experience, I never re-surface the rotors and never encounter any problem even when I autocross/track my cars multiple times a year where I heavily use the brake to its limit.
I hope what I share with you is helpful to you.
Regarding the hardware, you shouldn't need new one unless they are broken or heavily rusted. I know mine have lasted several years and still work fine.
Regarding the calipers, they usually last a very very very long time. This is not a wear and tear item so there is no mileage of replacement like you do with the pads. You should only replace them when they are not working. It is usually "stuck" calipers and you can tell it from the symptom of one pad wear out way sooner than another pad on the same caliper. My 2 rear calipers on IS350 2006 got this problem. The way to prevent this problem is everytime you replace your pads, remind your mechanic to add some grease to lube the caliper pistons. The pistons got stuck because of dried out/no lubrication.
Regarding re-surfacing the rotors, there are usually two schools of thought. There is actually no absolutely right or wrong answer. I personally don't think there are sands being embedded onto it because if so you will have small lumps on the surface everywhere. Also, the pads will sweep literally everything out on the rotor surface in no time. For example, after you wash your car or after the rain, I will guarantee you that you will see some rust on the rotor surface due to temporary oxidation. Once you start driving your car for a few miles and come back, all the rust will be swept away by the pads because rotors/pads work together as a friction mechanism to transform rotational motions into heat. In another words, the rotors act as a heat sink to dissipate heat so when you re-surface the rotors, you are removing some mass from that rotors which reduce heat dissipation and worse it make the rotor metallic structure weaker. Alright enough for all the theory haha, in my actual experience, I never re-surface the rotors and never encounter any problem even when I autocross/track my cars multiple times a year where I heavily use the brake to its limit.
I hope what I share with you is helpful to you.
02-04-15, 08:06 AM
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@eplugplay, it is always better and safer to replace the brake pads earlier so you did the right thing. If it is too late, it is also too late to save your and other people life. I replaced all my pads at 37k miles few weeks ago and still have some thickness on the pads to go for another 6k miles or so. Note that I autocross my cars multiple times a year too so the pads are gone faster than other folks.
Regarding the hardware, you shouldn't need new one unless they are broken or heavily rusted. I know mine have lasted several years and still work fine.
Regarding the calipers, they usually last a very very very long time. This is not a wear and tear item so there is no mileage of replacement like you do with the pads. You should only replace them when they are not working. It is usually "stuck" calipers and you can tell it from the symptom of one pad wear out way sooner than another pad on the same caliper. My 2 rear calipers on IS350 2006 got this problem. The way to prevent this problem is everytime you replace your pads, remind your mechanic to add some grease to lube the caliper pistons. The pistons got stuck because of dried out/no lubrication.
Regarding re-surfacing the rotors, there are usually two schools of thought. There is actually no absolutely right or wrong answer. I personally don't think there are sands being embedded onto it because if so you will have small lumps on the surface everywhere. Also, the pads will sweep literally everything out on the rotor surface in no time. For example, after you wash your car or after the rain, I will guarantee you that you will see some rust on the rotor surface due to temporary oxidation. Once you start driving your car for a few miles and come back, all the rust will be swept away by the pads because rotors/pads work together as a friction mechanism to transform rotational motions into heat. In another words, the rotors act as a heat sink to dissipate heat so when you re-surface the rotors, you are removing some mass from that rotors which reduce heat dissipation and worse it make the rotor metallic structure weaker. Alright enough for all the theory haha, in my actual experience, I never re-surface the rotors and never encounter any problem even when I autocross/track my cars multiple times a year where I heavily use the brake to its limit.
I hope what I share with you is helpful to you.
Regarding the hardware, you shouldn't need new one unless they are broken or heavily rusted. I know mine have lasted several years and still work fine.
Regarding the calipers, they usually last a very very very long time. This is not a wear and tear item so there is no mileage of replacement like you do with the pads. You should only replace them when they are not working. It is usually "stuck" calipers and you can tell it from the symptom of one pad wear out way sooner than another pad on the same caliper. My 2 rear calipers on IS350 2006 got this problem. The way to prevent this problem is everytime you replace your pads, remind your mechanic to add some grease to lube the caliper pistons. The pistons got stuck because of dried out/no lubrication.
Regarding re-surfacing the rotors, there are usually two schools of thought. There is actually no absolutely right or wrong answer. I personally don't think there are sands being embedded onto it because if so you will have small lumps on the surface everywhere. Also, the pads will sweep literally everything out on the rotor surface in no time. For example, after you wash your car or after the rain, I will guarantee you that you will see some rust on the rotor surface due to temporary oxidation. Once you start driving your car for a few miles and come back, all the rust will be swept away by the pads because rotors/pads work together as a friction mechanism to transform rotational motions into heat. In another words, the rotors act as a heat sink to dissipate heat so when you re-surface the rotors, you are removing some mass from that rotors which reduce heat dissipation and worse it make the rotor metallic structure weaker. Alright enough for all the theory haha, in my actual experience, I never re-surface the rotors and never encounter any problem even when I autocross/track my cars multiple times a year where I heavily use the brake to its limit.
I hope what I share with you is helpful to you.
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