Gixxer Drew Suspension Update 2014
#16
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sorry to bump old thread but since the new shocks are one inch longer can't you just do the original GDS build and go max low on the coilovers sleeves?
To my knowledge from reading the original thread the sleeve has a max adjustability of 3 inches but the max 3 inch was not recommended for performance and longevity of the shocks. Since the new shocks are 1 inch longer you can max out low on the sleeves which will put you at the same as 2 inch low (sweetspot) of the original GDS. does my logic make sense or am I missing something.
To my knowledge from reading the original thread the sleeve has a max adjustability of 3 inches but the max 3 inch was not recommended for performance and longevity of the shocks. Since the new shocks are 1 inch longer you can max out low on the sleeves which will put you at the same as 2 inch low (sweetspot) of the original GDS. does my logic make sense or am I missing something.
#17
Driver School Candidate
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Its All About The Geometry
My advice is to try and find a legit mechanic or shop to do a geometric breakdown. If you are doing the solo trial-&-error approach...cutting additional grooves into the shock body allows for alot of possibilities...but its all about the GEOMETRY, and that is very very tricky.
When it comes to work on cars in general, its tricky to balance the budget w/ getting work done right on ur car because no one wants to give up info. Whether its because they do competitive stuff with vehicles or that they spent time & money acquiring their skills and are running a business. That simple fact makes people like us go out on our own since its the only way that we can accomplish what we're looking to do. However, we are never going to be able to learn what took them years to obtain just by being weekend techs or internet troubleshooters. In addition, car guys usually specialize in specific areas because engine skills are different from suspension etc etc. I have had such a nightmare with my car that I cringe every time I have anyone do work on it. I have yet to find anyone that actually wanted to work on her, either because they have it too good business-wise (prefer easy jobs on newer cars) or they wont touch it because its aftermarket or not manufactured to specs. You should hear some of the things that have come back to me regarding swapping a bushing. I mean if I need to explain how a bushing is $10 and a replacement part is $500 to another want-a-be mechanic (but in reality just a tech jockey) Im gonna snap. But remember, its a hell of alot easier to take off, replace, & throw out...then to get ur hands dirty and bust out a mallet & torch. Plus the profit margin is different as well. Whats even worse is that I've learned not to push the issue because after labor, they find a way of charging the same (claiming the bushing was a ***** to get out & that I should have just replaced the whole part). When stated that it shouldnt have taken more than a half hour, u end up getting the "well then why didnt you just do it urself".
When it comes to suspension work its even more difficult because of all the geometry involved. Everyone will drop ur car, some people will install the Gixxer setup...BUT NOBODY WILL TELL YOU IF ITS NOT PROPERLY SETUP OR DANGEROUS. I couldnt even get the people @ Bilstein to confirm things similar to what ur asking.
What ur trying to do might be a bit of trial and error, but its the only way ur going to know without going to a race team and having them do a full geometric breakdown of the suspension. So much comes into play regarding ur question...such as ride height for one, thats its not a simple yes or no. Again, getting additional grooves cut into the shock for the c-ring will prove to be beneficial regardless.
When it comes to work on cars in general, its tricky to balance the budget w/ getting work done right on ur car because no one wants to give up info. Whether its because they do competitive stuff with vehicles or that they spent time & money acquiring their skills and are running a business. That simple fact makes people like us go out on our own since its the only way that we can accomplish what we're looking to do. However, we are never going to be able to learn what took them years to obtain just by being weekend techs or internet troubleshooters. In addition, car guys usually specialize in specific areas because engine skills are different from suspension etc etc. I have had such a nightmare with my car that I cringe every time I have anyone do work on it. I have yet to find anyone that actually wanted to work on her, either because they have it too good business-wise (prefer easy jobs on newer cars) or they wont touch it because its aftermarket or not manufactured to specs. You should hear some of the things that have come back to me regarding swapping a bushing. I mean if I need to explain how a bushing is $10 and a replacement part is $500 to another want-a-be mechanic (but in reality just a tech jockey) Im gonna snap. But remember, its a hell of alot easier to take off, replace, & throw out...then to get ur hands dirty and bust out a mallet & torch. Plus the profit margin is different as well. Whats even worse is that I've learned not to push the issue because after labor, they find a way of charging the same (claiming the bushing was a ***** to get out & that I should have just replaced the whole part). When stated that it shouldnt have taken more than a half hour, u end up getting the "well then why didnt you just do it urself".
When it comes to suspension work its even more difficult because of all the geometry involved. Everyone will drop ur car, some people will install the Gixxer setup...BUT NOBODY WILL TELL YOU IF ITS NOT PROPERLY SETUP OR DANGEROUS. I couldnt even get the people @ Bilstein to confirm things similar to what ur asking.
What ur trying to do might be a bit of trial and error, but its the only way ur going to know without going to a race team and having them do a full geometric breakdown of the suspension. So much comes into play regarding ur question...such as ride height for one, thats its not a simple yes or no. Again, getting additional grooves cut into the shock for the c-ring will prove to be beneficial regardless.
#18
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
After multiple tweaks to dial in the Gixxer suspension setup, I finalized by scrapping the inferior Hypercoil setup @ 500/325 lbs & installed the 650/500 lbs springs from Eibach. In hindsight, I realize that the original setup was b.s.. When you read the original post, its stated that this was a "no compromise setup", focused on having the best performance etc, etc...when actually, the only "no compromised" aspect is that of the Bilstein Shocks (all the other components listed in the original post are of average quality compared to what is actually available). My reason for going with heavier springs was to achieve the ideal ride height...which, for me, is low. If I had it to do all over again, I would've went with the HD Bilsteins instead, but the way it is now, Im happy enough.
#19
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What do you mean? Eibach vs Hypercoil shouldn't make a difference, only the spring rates. Are you saying you have now had better results with the heavier spring rates than with the lighter?
I have an OG GDS setup that I put together about seven years ago with 600/375 Hypercoils, and I've been very happy with it on two different SC's on the street and the road course. I'm thinking of putting together another combo for my track-focused SC400, but am still leery of the revised lengths of the AK shocks.
Aren't the AK part numbers already HD shocks, or are you referring to a different part number? I'm not afraid of a lot of damping and a lot of spring rate for this car, as it will be a streetable but road course-dedicated car.
I have an OG GDS setup that I put together about seven years ago with 600/375 Hypercoils, and I've been very happy with it on two different SC's on the street and the road course. I'm thinking of putting together another combo for my track-focused SC400, but am still leery of the revised lengths of the AK shocks.
Aren't the AK part numbers already HD shocks, or are you referring to a different part number? I'm not afraid of a lot of damping and a lot of spring rate for this car, as it will be a streetable but road course-dedicated car.
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