Albatross

iTrader: (1)

Okay so I replaced all the bushings under the car with the exception of subframe and sway bar bushings. Took the car to get an alignment and this i what they gave me:



That took them an hour and a half to do.

Relevant mods:

TT wheels with 275's in the rear
R2 bushings up front prothane bushings out back
supra struts
supra eibach springs

The car goes in a straight line but its like if I hit a bump the rear wants to dart one way or the other. Its almost like bump steer in the rear.

What am I missing or do I just need to hold their feet to the fire and get them to get all the specs at LEAST symmetrical?

ArkLaTexSC

Sort of the same issue here, but I feel like it's my bad bearing's fault so I'm grabbing a new hub today.

My fresh alignment made was along the same lines for the couple items not totally within spec.

As for those specs, that shouldn't cause your issue. Camber being out isn't a big deal until you get major numbers. Like 4-5 degrees. Toe is what would cause this issue if it was alignment....and <0.5" difference isn't noticeable like this.

I'll keep you posted. Could, strangely, also be diff bushings.

Albatross

iTrader: (1)

But it didn't do this prior to the alignment.

ArkLaTexSC

Neither did mine, but it didn't drive correctly, either.

soarer93

Assuming: The Alignment Rack and the Technician working on the car, are working correctly and know what they are doing.
Leaving us with: Tires, the lowering of the vehicle, and possibly worn out parts, are the cause of your issue(s) -
since you have lowered your vehicle, the Alignment Specs for the SCX00 are no longer applicable - a good guideline yes, but you will not get OEM ride if you line it up to "spec".
Tires have a large play in Tramlining, be it they are getting worn, or just the different characteristics of the tread. Suspension Components ie. your Struts, may be starting to/have gone and should be replaced, if the back end is bouncing up over a bump it may be due to that.

There are many issue(s) that even though very small, can all compliment eachother and cause issues - not to mention if the alignment is out, or changed in such a way, the problems as small as they are, may seem more predominant. Not to mention your Alignment doesn't seem to chive with how our techs would line up the car. Rear Toe and Camber specifically. Usually not Too much of an issue, however again likely a small component to a compounding problem.

acacg

Albatross where are you located in texas?

Albatross

iTrader: (1)

soarer93 here is the timeline:
1. car drives fine for the most part even after swapping from coilovers (slammed) to eibach/TT struts
2. install bushings front and rear minus subframe bushings
3. car still drives better but needs an alignment because the wheel is crooked.
4. after first alignment the wheel is crooked and im pretty sure the car is crab walking but the car is tolerable
5. after second alignment I had to turn around and work from home today because the car is downright scary (and i'm used to some scary stuff). it randomly walks side to side in the rear.

I want to go get my money back and try another shop so i might try that today.

Humble, TX (atascocita to be exact).

acacg

If you can swing by Toyota of McKinney around 0500 pm on Mondays through Fridays. I can help with your alignment. I just did mine and it drive pretty straight considering my camber and caster is a bit off. I'll post my alignment print out before and after if it helps.

Albatross

iTrader: (1)

That would be awesome acacg, thanks. I think I just need to have my rear camber equalized and have toe in instead of toe out.

acacg

Just let me know if nothing changes after your next alignment.

heres nine.




1st pic I adjust to "0". its just my preference when I do alignmets.
2nd pic is the factory spec numbers against my actual.

Albatross

iTrader: (1)

Are you using all stock control arms? I think they put waaaaaaaaaaaay too much toe out in the rear and thats why the car felt like a deathtrap. I dialed in as much toe in as possible to test my theory and took the car for aspin. the steering wheel was crooked but it handled well.

I think i'm gonna go with for each side:
-1.6* camber front
0 toe front
as much positive caster as i can get with it being about equal

1.5* camber rear
-0.1 toe

Thoughts?

acacg

only mods I have so far are the coilovers and front lower control arms bushings...
im still adjusting my coilovers.

on what youre planning sounds good but I would go +0.2* toe in the front.

Albatross

iTrader: (1)

why +.2* toe in the front?

Albatross

iTrader: (1)

Is there a reason to not use the lance alignment specs (with a tiny bit less camber up front)? I'm curious as to why you suggest some toe out in the front.

front camber -1.6
front caster as much as possible keeping both sides equal
front toe 0
rear camber -1.5
rear toe -0.044

SexCoupe

iTrader: (6)

go back and have them work on it for another few hours they should be ashamed to print out a alignment sheet looking like that of course they will blame you being lowered i have had 2 SCs both had your setup.at two different shops they were able to get front camber to .8 ....caster shouldn't be that different and definitely shouldn't be in the red 3.5 on both sides for caster....toe should be and can be .00 total front and rear...rear camber i would go under yourself and camber it as far as you can to positive and have them just do the toe i dont see how you have a full 1 degree difference in camber it should be about 1.3 max on both sides unless your rear spring and shock arent seated right or something is broken