dasbuch

I've got a 2010 RWD IS250 (USA), which has about 31k miles and gets a lot of short-trip city driving that's not very spirited.

The current rear brakes are at about 4mm and I want to replace the brake pads only with OEM low dust brakes (as I understand, that's what came on it stock). I want to do both front and rear so as to not have to deal with it for another 30k miles or so. I do not have the interest to perform the work myself, so it's between a specialty shop doing the work or the dealer.

The dealer wants about $650 to do front and back including resurfacing the rotors. A specialty shop wants $400 for just the OEM low dust pads front and back, but they are recommending I replace the rotors or they won't warranty against noise and vibration.

Currently there is no vibration or noise, so my thought is that the rotors should be in decent shape.

Can't I replace just the pads? Or are these folks right that I need to do something with the rotors at the same time. I always thought rotors are something you need to deal with if the brakes go too long without replacement or you drive hard constantly.

4TehNguyen

iTrader: (1)

you can replace pads only. Having you replace rotors when they still are above minimum thickness is a stealership move.

dasbuch

Thanks for the response, it coincides with my thinking.

Does everyone else agree with this? Would like to get as many opinions as possible. New to this forum and first time I've dealt with brakes on this car.

flowrider

iTrader: (9)

If your rotors are true and within tolerance there is no reason to replace them. The rears receive much less wear than the fronts, so doubt the pads would need to be replaced. Resurfacing the rotors is not something we do today. If the rotors are uneven or are scoured then you replaces them. Whatever you do, if you replace the pads, complete the installation by bedding in the pads.

Lou

Sportskid1

iTrader: (1)

Agreed with the comments here. If your rotors are in good shape just pull out the old pads and put in the new ones. No need to do anything with the rotors. I would also recommend just buying the OEM pads through Seawell for about $100 for the front and rears and just bring them into an independent shop to have installed. The shop will probably charge you double for parts. I can replace the front and rear pads in my IS350 in under an hour working with a floor jack in my garage. The only tool you need it a pair of pliers to pull out the pins holding the pads in. Super easy to do. A shop should charge no more than $150 for the install of the front and rear for reference. The dealer will be much more.

pheonix72

iTrader: (6)

Yes, I agreed with those posts above. You dont need to replace or resurface the rotors if they are still in specs for thickness and not warped. I just recently replaced both front and back pads on my Is350 (with OEM pads). I finished the job in about 1 hour. There is a diy here showing how to replace the front without removing the calipers.

flowrider

iTrader: (9)

Rotors don't warp. See posts 5 and 6 of this thread:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...d-braking.html

Lou

dasbuch

My basic issue and reason for asking is not really warping vs scoring of the rotor -- the problem I'd like to solve is that solving either warping or scoring involves resurfacing the rotor which thins it and in my experience only leads to exponentially faster rotor wear. By this I mean with each resurfacing of the rotor, the amount of miles (all things being equal) it can go before vibration/reduced performance will decrease. For example 35k miles first rotor resurface, next resurface at 50k, next trip need new rotors. It doesn't matter if they're warping or not, they're getting "thinner" for a reason and that's usually because some shop wants a higher profit margin.

So my general theory here is that by changing the pads more proactively, I'm reducing scoring of the rotor, going longer miles between resurfacing and ultimately saving money.

The key here is unspirited driving, not caring as much about performance braking because I drive slowly usually and keep good distance between myself and cars ahead.

Is my thinking flawed? Id rather just change the cheaper part more often. My time is money and I don't want to be in the shop any more than I have to. The whole "rotor work with the brake pads required or else we cant warranty the work" doesn't fly with me.

flowrider

iTrader: (9)

^^^^Spirited, Unspirited driving really makes no difference if you keep an eye on the thickness of the pad material. As long as you replace the pads before they reach the caliper material you will be fine. I am a spirited driver. However, I do realize that when I apply the brakes, I am scrubbing off the momentum that I have built up from accelerating, so I also try to also leave space between me and the fellow in front of me. And when cornering I try to refrain from using the brakes if possible.

The brake pads and rotors that I have on my ISF, are not meant for long life, but for performance. They will wear faster then long life pads. Performance is very important to me. That covers all aspects of my vehicle from power to handling to braking.

Lou

pheonix72

iTrader: (6)

"Warp rotor" is a common technical term used to describe when the surface of the rotor become uneven (for lots of different reasons which I don't have time to explain, do ur own search on it if you like). When this happened, you either have to replace the rotor or the machine shop will tune it on a lathe to even it out.

flowrider

iTrader: (9)

^^^^Technical Term Wow

Look Here:

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths

Again rotors don't warp. I still can't get over "Technical Term"

Lou

Jeff Lange

iTrader: (1)

Warped rotor is a non-technical term for an uneven surface on the rotor, which can be caused by a number of things. The technical terms would be run-out or build-up, maybe uneven pad transfer or something along those lines.

If you are changing pad material I would recommend resurfacing the rotors myself, if you are using the same pad material and you are well above the minimum thickness you'll be fine just replacing the pads.

Jeff

pheonix72

iTrader: (6)

OK Lou the Master Mechanic, you got me! Sorry, what i meant to post was it is a "COMMON, NONE-TECHNICAL" term used (or misused) by almost everyone to desribe the conditions.
The main point for the OP is that you don't need to replace the rotors unless they are out of thickness specs or you have problem with it.

Sportskid1

iTrader: (1)

Jeff does make a very good comment that I did forget about. If you are swapping pads with the same pad material you don't need to turn the rotors. If you are swapping pad materials it is a good idea to turn the rotors or get new rotors as the buildup of the old pad material on the rotors may not work with the new pad material and you may feel pulsation in the brakes. If you are just going from OEM high dust to OEM low dust you will be fine.

dasbuch

I'm pretty sure the OEM pads for the 2010 IS250 are low dust, someone correct me if I'm wrong.